Preferred method for squaring blanks after applying the CA finish

[gmreeves]

I recently turned a couple of Tycoon Pens using cocobolo and amboyna burl. I chose to finish these with CA as I hadn't tried this method yet. The finish came out great and once the sections were removed from the mandrel, I realized there was a ridge of CA around the section. I tried to use my fingernail to break the ridge and that only chipped it causing me to redo the finish on that section. I then tried putting it on a plate of glass with a sheet of sand paper on it to sand the ridge away. That worked okay but I was worried I would get it completely and that I might not get it square. What is everyones preferred way or removing this CA ridge befor assembling the pen?

 

[Lenny]

If you mean that the CA is kind of rolling over the ends of the blank ...???... I use a barrel trimmer with the head reversed that has a piece of sandpaper stuck to it ... think 3/4" sanding disk.
There is an IAP member who makes a similar (no doubt better) tool and offers them for sale here.

 

[gmreeves]

Yep. That is what I mean and that sounds like a great solution. I was thinking of hand turning the barrel trimmer alone but figured that would just chip the finish. I'll give your method a try. Thanks for the quick response.

 

[Lenny]

This is one member who makes this ... http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54885

and seems to me there is another one as well.

 

[thewishman]

I lay a strip of 400 grit sandpaper on the lathe bed and sand off the excess. Putting the pen mill shaft in the tube would help to make sure of squareness.

 

[JimMc7]

I use a sanding jig: MDF with plastic laminate on faceplate and shortened pen mandrel in the tailstock. Use milling sleeves for each kit blank to ensure the ends are square. The abrasive is a small piece of 120 grit PSA sandpaper.

 

[JimB]

I use a similar setup as JimMc7. Only difference is I use a jacobs chuck in the tailstock with a HF punch to hold the blank. I don't use a sleeve as I just hold the blank against the punch and slide it towards to sandpaper. Works great.

 

[chrisk]

Up to now I only use CA as a sealer but I have that ridge too. I cut the ridge with a flat jeweller's file, from the rim towards the center.
You must turn progressively around the cylinder not trying to clear it at once, otherwise you're risking to damage the squareness as with the sandpaper.

 

[Rick_G]

I just use a piece of 220 sandpaper on my drill press table. Sand a couple swiped, turn it in my hand and sand another couple, repeat until I get to the brass. No problems "yet"

 

[PaulDoug]

I made this and really like. Cost me next to nothing. Used ab old mandrel shaft I had. I put it in a collet chuck to use it on the lathe. Can put sandpaper on both sides so I don't have to change paper so often. I have sleeves made for the different types of pens.

 

[greggas]

I sand the edges by hand with the 1500 micromesh pad. I find this works very well as the ridege is removed very nicely by the 1500 grit yet no problem with sanding away too much and making blank out os square since it is 1500 grit and will not really take wood away too quickly

 

[Mr Vic]

I use a dremal with a sanding disc. Once I get a shine all around the brass tube I know (ok figure) that it's square. At least it looks square when assembled. When the disc wears I cut squares of 600 grit turners strips and use the disk as a backer. After sanding I'll buff the sharpe egde with Tripoli to rond the over a slight bit. I've tried the lathe setup but find I only use the small circel of paper and waste the rest.

 

[gmreeves]

Wow. I'm impressed with all of the answers I received from my first post. Thanks for all of the help.