Polyurethane Glue Squeeze

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C_Ludwigsen

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Okay, I know I've read it here somewhere, but this is my fist experience using Polyurethane Glue for the tubes... HOW do you keep it from squeezing the tube out?

Fortunately it only happened to 1 of 8 blanks. And I caught that one before it was set up and pressed the tube back in with my vise.

I've had to give up CA glue as we believe it is the primary source of all the medical problems I've had the last 2 months. So I am trying to switch to PU glue or 2-part epoxy for the tubes and a lacquer finish for the pens.

Thanks for any and all help.
 
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William Young

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Chuck;
I can't help you with the polyurethane glue because I have never used it for anything. Is that the type that you have to wet the wood before applying it?
I have used CA occasionally when in a hurry but the guy in the instructional DVD that I have uses the 5 minute two part epoxy and prefers it over other kinds. So that is why I use it. Although it sets in 5 minutes, it is best left overnight to cure. It only takes a minute to mix and it is nice and thick and fills in just great.I both mix and apply it with used toothpicks (the round strong kind). I have never had a dissapointment with it but I have a couple times when using thick CA in the same manner.
W.Y.
 

pen-turners

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Chuck,
I don't know what other people do but here is my technique if you call it that. I use Poly glue on all the acrylics I do and used to have the same problem with the tubes pushing out. There are 2 things you can do.

1. Let the blanks dry standing on end. This usually works although sometimes a stubborn tube will decide to defy gravity and rise.

2. The best method I have found is to purchase one of them bags of little bitty rubber bands for about $2 at the store. After glueing the blank just wrap the rubber band around the length of the blank and the rubber band will keep the tube from coming out. It is just enough pressure to work.

Hope this helps.

Chris
 

DCBluesman

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I use poly for my tubes. You have to wet the inside of the blank with water (I use a q-tip) and the put a bit of glue on the end of the tube. Run in half an inch or so into the tube, turning it to get the glue well dispersed. Then add some more poly to the tube and inset the tube fully from the opposite end you started on, again twirling it to disperse the poly. Wipe off the ends and set upright on a piece of wax paper, that should do the trick. BTW, poly is great for tubes since it expands naturally for filling and it dries with mild flexibility, allowing for slight changes in wood diamter for woods such as ebony that swell, shrink and crack. Also, if you have any additional problems with tubes, drill em 1/64 or 1/32 larger, the poly will take care of the size difference.
 

jimr

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I have started use poly glue on all my pens. I have never had a tube squeezed out by the glue. My process- I hold the tube with needle nose pliers, apply a line of glue on each side of the tube the full length, spread it around with a small screwdriver to coat the entire tube but not very thick. Insert the tube with the pliers, twisting and moving it around. When it gets almost all in, let go with the pliers, coat the last bit of the end and push it in with the screwdriver to allow for squaring the blank end with barrel trimmer. I have never wet the inside of the blank. Dry overnight lying flat and use a small knife to clean the excess off to insert the barrel trimmer. I have never had a tube squeeze out, don't know what would cause that to happen.
 

timdaleiden

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I cut the blanks a bit longer than normal. It also helps to use generous amounts of glue on the tube, and insert in the blank while turning the tube to spread evenly inside blank. Remove the tube, apply more glue to the tube, and do the same thing to the other end of the blank, and just lay it down flat. Wear disposable rubber gloves while doing this, as it gets a bit messy. The excess glue on the ends will foam and hold the tube in place.

It works for me.
 

rkerns

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Columbia, MO, USA.
Most wood, even dry, has enough moisture to catalyze the poly glue, however acrylics do not. I just drop the drilled acrylic blanks in a container of water while I get everything else ready. When I am ready to glue I just give them a good shake to remove the exess water. This has proven to be plenty of moisture to really get the poly foamin'! I used to use qtip method, but prefer this was, as it is quicker and easier.

I have had a couple of push outs, so thanks for the tips on that (standing up and rubber bands)!

I changed to poly glue after a couple of CA incedents, and prefer it over any other method. I always glue up the night before, so time is not an issue. Gorilla claims that the glue is at 90% strength after 4 hours of curing. I am always concerned with quality, so I did some destructive testing of the bond and found it to be extremely strong and durable. The glue that squeezes out of the end is very stiff and styrafaomy, but where the glue was not allowed to expand, as in the gap between the brass and the blank, the glue is very hard. I have every bit as much faith in poly as I do in epoxy, and it is much easier to work with.

Happy glueing,
Cheers!
 
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