Polymer Clay Turning

[ColinH60]

Hello,

Has anyone turned polymer clay? If so, do you have any recommendations on books or online tutorials? Thanks

 

[jyreene]

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f178/polymer-clay-pen-blanks-109884/

Decent guidance there. Not done it myself yet but slowly working my way through a few guides.

 

[MrsPTownSubbie]

I make polymer clay blanks that my husband Fred (PTownSubbie) turns. We had shared some at our last club meeting to let our members practice with the product. A carbide tipped tool works best with light cuts. It turns most like an acrylic.

Hello,

Has anyone turned polymer clay? If so, do you have any recommendations on books or online tutorials? Thanks

 

[ColinH60]

I make polymer clay blanks that my husband Fred (PTownSubbie) turns. We had shared some at our last club meeting to let our members practice with the product. A carbide tipped tool works best with light cuts. It turns most like an acrylic.

Mrs. Wissen:

Thanks. I looked on your website. Very cool. I can't wait to try.

 

[ed4copies]

I make polymer clay blanks that my husband Fred (PTownSubbie) turns. We had shared some at our last club meeting to let our members practice with the product. A carbide tipped tool works best with light cuts. It turns most like an acrylic.

Mrs. Wissen:

Thanks. I looked on your website. Very cool. I can't wait to try.

Wow, now that you have a degree, you're MRS WISSEN!!!! :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin: I'm impressed!!!

Just pulling your leg, Tina!!

 

[nava1uni]

You need very sharp tools, light cuts and finish with sanding through fine grits and micro mesh.

 

[MrsPTownSubbie]

Nah...just getting older.

I make polymer clay blanks that my husband Fred (PTownSubbie) turns. We had shared some at our last club meeting to let our members practice with the product. A carbide tipped tool works best with light cuts. It turns most like an acrylic.

Mrs. Wissen:

Thanks. I looked on your website. Very cool. I can't wait to try.

Wow, now that you have a degree, you're MRS WISSEN!!!! :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin: I'm impressed!!!

Just pulling your leg, Tina!!

 

[plantman]

Look in the library on this site. Toni has a great article on how she makes the blanks, but she doesn't turn them. I have turned them for about a year, but use a totaly different approach to building up the blanks. Once you make the blanks and fire them, they are just like turning any other blank on the lathe. It just takes less turning preasure and lighter sanding. I turn mine on a mini metal lathe and use files to shape them. Check my photo for some examples. So far I have not seen any books or videos on youtube showing how to apply clay to a brass tube and than turn it on a lathe. The best book I could recomend would be The Art of Polymer Clay Millefiori Techniques By Donna Kato !! It doesn't tell you how to make pen blanks or turn pens, but is the best book for telling you how to work with Polymer Clay. Jim S

 

[MrsPTownSubbie]

You can use a similar caning approach, but the canes slices would need to be cut thicker than the bushings of the pen kit used, and when baking the clay, the tubes needs to be baked long enough to fully polymerize the clay so it gets hard enough to turn.

I show how I have set up my workstation to make my own canes at PTownSubbie.com - How to Make Polymer Clay Canes, but there's plenty of other ways and places to learn on the internet as well as books and videos. I watched dozens of tutorials myself.

Look in the library on this site. Toni has a great article on how she makes the blanks, but she doesn't turn them. I have turned them for about a year, but use a totaly different approach to building up the blanks. Once you make the blanks and fire them, they are just like turning any other blank on the lathe. It just takes less turning preasure and lighter sanding. I turn mine on a mini metal lathe and use files to shape them. Check my photo for some examples. So far I have not seen any books or videos on youtube showing how to apply clay to a brass tube and than turn it on a lathe. The best book I could recomend would be The Art of Polymer Clay Millefiori Techniques By Donna Kato !! It doesn't tell you how to make pen blanks or turn pens, but is the best book for telling you how to work with Polymer Clay. Jim S

 

[kovalcik]

Is there any issue with colors bleeding during sanding?

 

[PTownSubbie]

Is there any issue with colors bleeding during sanding?

I haven't had any.

 

[plantman]

You can use a similar caning approach, but the canes slices would need to be cut thicker than the bushings of the pen kit used, and when baking the clay, the tubes needs to be baked long enough to fully polymerize the clay so it gets hard enough to turn.

I show how I have set up my workstation to make my own canes at PTownSubbie.com - How to Make Polymer Clay Canes, but there's plenty of other ways and places to learn on the internet as well as books and videos. I watched dozens of tutorials myself.

Look in the library on this site. Toni has a great article on how she makes the blanks, but she doesn't turn them. I have turned them for about a year, but use a totaly different approach to building up the blanks. Once you make the blanks and fire them, they are just like turning any other blank on the lathe. It just takes less turning preasure and lighter sanding. I turn mine on a mini metal lathe and use files to shape them. Check my photo for some examples. So far I have not seen any books or videos on youtube showing how to apply clay to a brass tube and than turn it on a lathe. The best book I could recomend would be The Art of Polymer Clay Millefiori Techniques By Donna Kato !! It doesn't tell you how to make pen blanks or turn pens, but is the best book for telling you how to work with Polymer Clay. Jim S

Tina; I agree with you that there are thousands of videos out there on how to make canes and use Polymer Clay, and also how to cover plactic pens with clay, which are not turned. Have you ever run across someone showing putting the clay on brass tubes and then turning them on a lathe as we do ?? I also use the thicker slice method to make my pens. I have tried Toni's method, but I am not that talented !!! Love your designs. Jim S

 

[creativewriting]

Polymer turns very easy, but the key is SHARP tools and don't let it get too hot. I keep a pan of cool water close to where I am turning. As I turn I will use a piece of paper towel dipped in the water to cool the blank down. Always use light cuts or you will blow it up in a second.

Applying the clay to the brass tube is very easy. I roll mine out with a pasta machine (dedicated to clay) just above the bushing size. Then I wrap the tube and roll it on my work station (Glass top) to smooth the seam. Bake and your ready to turn!

Usually I take a little extra precaution and apply a thin layer of adhesive before wrapping the brass tube. I let the glue dry, apply the clay, and then baking seems to reactivate the glue and give it a better hold. This also helps down the road with twist style pens. Early on I had a few blanks break free of the brass tubes with continuous opening and closing. Since I have been applying glue not a single one has come loose!

Happy Turning!

 

[creativewriting]

I forgot to mention the type of clay you use is also very important. Each clay has different charactoristics. I only use two brands (since they stopped making my favorite). Many of them are extremely soft and won't hold up as well to the stress of turning.

 

[PTownSubbie]

I forgot to mention the type of clay you use is also very important. Each clay has different charactoristics. I only use two brands (since they stopped making my favorite). Many of them are extremely soft and won't hold up as well to the stress of turning.

Mind sharing which brands you use?:biggrin:

 

[MrsPTownSubbie]

You can use a similar caning approach, but the canes slices would need to be cut thicker than the bushings of the pen kit used, and when baking the clay, the tubes needs to be baked long enough to fully polymerize the clay so it gets hard enough to turn.

I show how I have set up my workstation to make my own canes at PTownSubbie.com - How to Make Polymer Clay Canes, but there's plenty of other ways and places to learn on the internet as well as books and videos. I watched dozens of tutorials myself.

Look in the library on this site. Toni has a great article on how she makes the blanks, but she doesn't turn them. I have turned them for about a year, but use a totaly different approach to building up the blanks. Once you make the blanks and fire them, they are just like turning any other blank on the lathe. It just takes less turning preasure and lighter sanding. I turn mine on a mini metal lathe and use files to shape them. Check my photo for some examples. So far I have not seen any books or videos on youtube showing how to apply clay to a brass tube and than turn it on a lathe. The best book I could recomend would be The Art of Polymer Clay Millefiori Techniques By Donna Kato !! It doesn't tell you how to make pen blanks or turn pens, but is the best book for telling you how to work with Polymer Clay. Jim S

Tina; I agree with you that there are thousands of videos out there on how to make canes and use Polymer Clay, and also how to cover plactic pens with clay, which are not turned. Have you ever run across someone showing putting the clay on brass tubes and then turning them on a lathe as we do ?? I also use the thicker slice method to make my pens. I have tried Toni's method, but I am not that talented !!! Love your designs. Jim S

Thanks Jim, no I have not seen many designing videos...but it's cane making that I have been looking for though. I am in love new ideas of quilted - Pinterest, kaleidoscope - Polymer Clay Cane: Kaleidoscope and of course - millefiori too Pinterest (ok you got, I love just about everything clay)

 

[Janster]

Mind sharing which brands you use?:biggrin: Also what type of glue? ........Thanks and be well.............Jan

 

[plantman]

Mind sharing which brands you use?:biggrin: Also what type of glue? ........Thanks and be well.............Jan

Hi Jan; When I make my own blanks I use Sculpy III. No reason, it's just the brand that Michael's carrys in the largest amount of colors. If I buy fancy cains on the internet, they will tell you what brands they used to make them. I have found out that mixing brands sometimes results in strange blends, or colors don't match. I try to buy products made in the USA, because sometimes if you buy clays from abroad, there are hidden shipping or custom costs that will be ten times the product coast. They can also get held up in customs when entering the USA. Every package that comes into the United States is scaned. After saying that, I just had 6 different LED lighting orders shipped from China with no shipping costs and most arrived in 10 days or less. Read the fine print when it comes to shipping. Jim S

 

[kovalcik]

MrsPtownSubbie and plantman,

I am a little confused after reading this tread and Toni's tutorial thread. Do you use a base layer of clay around the tube before you add your cane slices like Toni, or do you use only the cane slices, or ....? Also, how do you fill in around the cane shapes to get a smooth filled in pattern?

Thanks for you help.

 

[creativewriting]

Mind sharing which brands you use?:biggrin: Also what type of glue? ........Thanks and be well.............Jan

Not at all! Everyone has their favorite so this is only my opinion on the clay. I can see this opening a whole new can of worms, but each one is different. I believe in the library there is a link to Garie International. This is an artist who has done all kinds of testing (porousity?, floating, microwaving, strength, etc.). It is a great site for lots of good polymer information.

I use Premo & Kato. For me Sculpy III turns to mush as soon as you start kneading it. It's also more flexible than the others when it's baked which can lead to failures when turning. Fimo soft is another one that turns to mush. Premo & Kato tend to hold textures better due to their firmness. They tend to be harder to condition, but for what I do it is worth it. Fimo Classic is OK but not offered in as many colors as the others. Out of the two I use Kato seems to be the most durable once baked. I don't have a lot of experience with Pardo or Cernit (I have some of each to sample, but haven't got around to it). Studio was by far my favorite, but is no longer made!

The glue I use is Crafters Choice (Hobby Lobby). Again there are many out there and people will have their favorites. For me Crafter Choice works the best. It works with all types of materials and surfaces. I spread a thin layer on the tube with my finger and let it dry. Once dry it almost has a plastic/rubbery feel to it. It creates a nice layer for the clay to adhere to. I have succesfully turned pieces with and without the glue, but I would rather error on the side of caution.

 

[kovalcik]

Creativewriting,

Should have ncluded you on my post above. Do you use canes or just the rolled out base layer for your blanks? (see above post)

 

[plantman]

MrsPtownSubbie and plantman,

I am a little confused after reading this tread and Toni's tutorial thread. Do you use a base layer of clay around the tube before you add your cane slices like Toni, or do you use only the cane slices, or ....? Also, how do you fill in around the cane shapes to get a smooth filled in pattern?

Thanks for you help.

Toni uses a base layer of clay and than applies her designs on top of that. Her base layer is consistant in thickness, and she has the knack of being able to cut very thin slices of the same thickness to fill in her design. She than rolls her blank smooth and sands and finishes it. No turning!! I have tried this method, and believe me, it's not as easy as it sounds. I will usualy use the thicker cane slices to make my designs and use one of the colors in the design to fill in with, or a contrasting color, piece by piece. Or, if you know the brand and color of clay that is used in your cain, the same brand and color should match up fairly good, but dye lots can vary. If I find I can't get an exact match, I will circle the cain design with black or a contrasting color and than fill in the open spaces with some other color. When you use a base layer and add your design on top, than turn it round on the lathe you stand the chance of cutting through your design if you go to deep. If you use thick slices, the design goes all the way to the tube, and even if your barrel is not concentric, you won't loose your design. Thin slices saves a lot of design cain, but it realy takes a lot of practice to do it correctly and consistently. My hat is off to Toni for her beautiful work and the skillful art it takes to do it her way !!!! Photos are of my entry in this years beautiful pen contest. Tied for 7th place. Jim S

 

[Darley]

Yes you can turn polymer clay and he goes same as for all material ....." Sharp Tools "

Here's a link of my pens done in 2008, the Baron won 1st price at the Melbourne Show

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/some-polymer-clay-pens-4131/

Plantman your pens are well made, will try to make some cane when time permit

 

[Toni]

I forgot to mention the type of clay you use is also very important. Each clay has different charactoristics. I only use two brands (since they stopped making my favorite). Many of them are extremely soft and won't hold up as well to the stress of turning.

Hey Keith what was your favorite clay?

Whatever you do dont use Sculpey III for turning~!!!! I use Premo, Fimo and some Kato. Kato is very hard. I may not turn my pens but I know alot about caning and Polymer clay:biggrin:

 

[Toni]

MrsPtownSubbie and plantman,

I am a little confused after reading this tread and Toni's tutorial thread. Do you use a base layer of clay around the tube before you add your cane slices like Toni, or do you use only the cane slices, or ....? Also, how do you fill in around the cane shapes to get a smooth filled in pattern?

Thanks for you help.

Toni uses a base layer of clay and than applies her designs on top of that. Her base layer is consistant in thickness, and she has the knack of being able to cut very thin slices of the same thickness to fill in her design. She than rolls her blank smooth and sands and finishes it. No turning!! I have tried this method, and believe me, it's not as easy as it sounds. I will usualy use the thicker cane slices to make my designs and use one of the colors in the design to fill in with, or a contrasting color, piece by piece. Or, if you know the brand and color of clay that is used in your cain, the same brand and color should match up fairly good, but dye lots can vary. If I find I can't get an exact match, I will circle the cain design with black or a contrasting color and than fill in the open spaces with some other color. When you use a base layer and add your design on top, than turn it round on the lathe you stand the chance of cutting through your design if you go to deep. If you use thick slices, the design goes all the way to the tube, and even if your barrel is not concentric, you won't loose your design. Thin slices saves a lot of design cain, but it realy takes a lot of practice to do it correctly and consistently. My hat is off to Toni for her beautiful work and the skillful art it takes to do it her way !!!! Photos are of my entry in this years beautiful pen contest. Tied for 7th place. Jim S

this is what happens when you read a post, post by post and make comments... Thank you for the complements!! I love what I do.

To fill in the spaces between the slices you roll the tube and it will fill it in by rolling.

YOur Pens are awesome I just love the pattern!!

 

[plantman]

MrsPtownSubbie and plantman,

I am a little confused after reading this tread and Toni's tutorial thread. Do you use a base layer of clay around the tube before you add your cane slices like Toni, or do you use only the cane slices, or ....? Also, how do you fill in around the cane shapes to get a smooth filled in pattern?

Thanks for you help.

Toni uses a base layer of clay and than applies her designs on top of that. Her base layer is consistant in thickness, and she has the knack of being able to cut very thin slices of the same thickness to fill in her design. She than rolls her blank smooth and sands and finishes it. No turning!! I have tried this method, and believe me, it's not as easy as it sounds. I will usualy use the thicker cane slices to make my designs and use one of the colors in the design to fill in with, or a contrasting color, piece by piece. Or, if you know the brand and color of clay that is used in your cain, the same brand and color should match up fairly good, but dye lots can vary. If I find I can't get an exact match, I will circle the cain design with black or a contrasting color and than fill in the open spaces with some other color. When you use a base layer and add your design on top, than turn it round on the lathe you stand the chance of cutting through your design if you go to deep. If you use thick slices, the design goes all the way to the tube, and even if your barrel is not concentric, you won't loose your design. Thin slices saves a lot of design cain, but it realy takes a lot of practice to do it correctly and consistently. My hat is off to Toni for her beautiful work and the skillful art it takes to do it her way !!!! Photos are of my entry in this years beautiful pen contest. Tied for 7th place. Jim S

this is what happens when you read a post, post by post and make comments... Thank you for the complements!! I love what I do.

To fill in the spaces between the slices you roll the tube and it will fill it in by rolling.

YOur Pens are awesome I just love the pattern!!

Toni; Thank you for the nice comment!! Comming from you that is realy an honor for me. I hope you didn't take the "no turning" the wrong way. I ment it only as a way of saying that you do not have to have special turning equipment to make a Polymer Clay pen. Keep that beautiful work comming. Jim S

 

[MrsPTownSubbie]

There's so many creative ways to apply polymer clay to pen designs. I'm sure everyone has their own ideas, but in summary, there are some noted differences in making clay blanks you can turn and clay blanks ready made for pen assembly.

I create clay blanks primarily for pen turning. Sometimes I create sheet designs, but I normally apply the cane slices directly to the tubes and back fill with secondary patterns of similar coloring. I know Keith and a few other people also create clay blanks that can be turned. I think a few of them have already shared their methods as well, either in this thread or before.

The pre-assembled blank designers have their own techniques which Jim has already shared and I'm sure Toni can clarify more if needed. I think historically the idea originally came from polymer clay nail art designers, which is very thin clay slices applied to women's nails for decorations.

Ed Brown /Bruce Robbins , I haven't heard if the MAPG videos turned out to share more information about polymer clay techniques?? That would be a great opportunity for people to see Toni's demonstration in more detail...

MrsPtownSubbie and plantman,

I am a little confused after reading this tread and Toni's tutorial thread. Do you use a base layer of clay around the tube before you add your cane slices like Toni, or do you use only the cane slices, or ....? Also, how do you fill in around the cane shapes to get a smooth filled in pattern?

Thanks for you help.

 

[creativewriting]

I forgot to mention the type of clay you use is also very important. Each clay has different charactoristics. I only use two brands (since they stopped making my favorite). Many of them are extremely soft and won't hold up as well to the stress of turning.

Hey Keith what was your favorite clay?

Whatever you do dont use Sculpey III for turning~!!!! I use Premo, Fimo and some Kato. Kato is very hard. I may not turn my pens but I know alot about caning and Polymer clay:biggrin:

My favorite was Studio (for textured effects). I want to say it was also a version of Sculpy, but not sure. It felt as if it had corn starch or some other powder in it. It didn't stick to texture sheets or stamps due to the texture. Once cured it looked and felt great. It wasn't a good clay for canes. I have several blocks of it, but none of them in colors I use very often. The Kato has been a good substitute due to the firmness. It holds the textures well and cures more matte than the others! I have been half tempted to take a block of Premo and some baby powder and throw it in my little food processor (clay dedicated) to see what happens. I miss my Studio:crying:!

 

[MrsPTownSubbie]

There's so many creative ways to apply polymer clay to pen designs. I'm sure everyone has their own ideas, but in summary, there are some noted differences in making clay blanks you can turn and clay blanks ready made for pen assembly.

I create clay blanks primarily for pen turning. Sometimes I create sheet designs, but I normally apply the cane slices directly to the tubes and back fill with secondary patterns of similar coloring. I know Keith and a few other people also create clay blanks that can be turned. I think a few of them have already shared their methods as well, either in this thread or before.

The pre-assembled blank designers have their own techniques which Jim has already shared and I'm sure Toni can clarify more if needed. I think historically the idea originally came from polymer clay nail art designers, which is very thin clay slices applied to women's nails for decorations.

Ed Brown /Bruce Robbins , I haven't heard if the MAPG videos turned out to share more information about polymer clay techniques?? That would be a great opportunity for people to see Toni's demonstration in more detail...

MrsPtownSubbie and plantman,

I am a little confused after reading this tread and Toni's tutorial thread. Do you use a base layer of clay around the tube before you add your cane slices like Toni, or do you use only the cane slices, or ....? Also, how do you fill in around the cane shapes to get a smooth filled in pattern?

Thanks for you help.

 

[PenPal]

Tina, Tim and Tony,

How very civilised of you and others with your genuine sharing on this Post it has quite made my day and restored faith in some aspects of posting well done you three and Darley as well if I missed anyone cause Im old and memory is becoming a thing of the past.

Partisan talk is fine. Having heard from all of you I say there is room for more of this great interaction on the great IAP. Loving this way of sharing.

Kind regards Peter.

 

[creativewriting]

Mind sharing which brands you use?:biggrin: Also what type of glue? ........Thanks and be well.............Jan

Not at all! Everyone has their favorite so this is only my opinion on the clay. I can see this opening a whole new can of worms, but each one is different. I believe in the library there is a link to Garie International. This is an artist who has done all kinds of testing (porousity?, floating, microwaving, strength, etc.). It is a great site for lots of good polymer information.

I use Premo & Kato. For me Sculpy III turns to mush as soon as you start kneading it. It's also more flexible than the others when it's baked which can lead to failures when turning. Fimo soft is another one that turns to mush. Premo & Kato tend to hold textures better due to their firmness. They tend to be harder to condition, but for what I do it is worth it. Fimo Classic is OK but not offered in as many colors as the others. Out of the two I use Kato seems to be the most durable once baked. I don't have a lot of experience with Pardo or Cernit (I have some of each to sample, but haven't got around to it). Studio was by far my favorite, but is no longer made!


The glue I use is Crafters Choice (Hobby Lobby). Again there are many out there and people will have their favorites. For me Crafter Choice works the best. It works with all types of materials and surfaces. I spread a thin layer on the tube with my finger and let it dry. Once dry it almost has a plastic/rubbery feel to it. It creates a nice layer for the clay to adhere to. I have succesfully turned pieces with and without the glue, but I would rather error on the side of caution.

So i was making some tubes this evening and noticed I gave the wrong name for the glue. It is "The Ulitimate" by Crafters Pick.

I hate that I wasn't able to go to the meeting this year in VA!

 

[MrsPTownSubbie]

I'm sure Bruce will jump in here [insert Bruce] when I say the invitation will be open again next year...

Mind sharing which brands you use?:biggrin: Also what type of glue? ........Thanks and be well.............Jan

Not at all! Everyone has their favorite so this is only my opinion on the clay. I can see this opening a whole new can of worms, but each one is different. I believe in the library there is a link to Garie International. This is an artist who has done all kinds of testing (porousity?, floating, microwaving, strength, etc.). It is a great site for lots of good polymer information.

I use Premo & Kato. For me Sculpy III turns to mush as soon as you start kneading it. It's also more flexible than the others when it's baked which can lead to failures when turning. Fimo soft is another one that turns to mush. Premo & Kato tend to hold textures better due to their firmness. They tend to be harder to condition, but for what I do it is worth it. Fimo Classic is OK but not offered in as many colors as the others. Out of the two I use Kato seems to be the most durable once baked. I don't have a lot of experience with Pardo or Cernit (I have some of each to sample, but haven't got around to it). Studio was by far my favorite, but is no longer made!


The glue I use is Crafters Choice (Hobby Lobby). Again there are many out there and people will have their favorites. For me Crafter Choice works the best. It works with all types of materials and surfaces. I spread a thin layer on the tube with my finger and let it dry. Once dry it almost has a plastic/rubbery feel to it. It creates a nice layer for the clay to adhere to. I have succesfully turned pieces with and without the glue, but I would rather error on the side of caution.

So i was making some tubes this evening and noticed I gave the wrong name for the glue. It is "The Ulitimate" by Crafters Pick.

I hate that I wasn't able to go to the meeting this year in VA!

 

[MrsPTownSubbie]

I forgot to mention the type of clay you use is also very important. Each clay has different charactoristics. I only use two brands (since they stopped making my favorite). Many of them are extremely soft and won't hold up as well to the stress of turning.

Hey Keith what was your favorite clay?

Whatever you do dont use Sculpey III for turning~!!!! I use Premo, Fimo and some Kato. Kato is very hard. I may not turn my pens but I know alot about caning and Polymer clay:biggrin:

I've seen that same report from Garie Int http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/shop/tension_test.htm about brittleness in Sculpey III but I've not seen many issues with it. I've also read other reports stating Fimo Soft having the same problems as Sculpey III, so it's back to what works best for the artist and the resources they have available in their area. I like the color schemes available with Sculpey products and usually mix it with the stronger brands.

 

[kovalcik]

Thanks you all for the mini tutorial. My 13 year old daughter loves working with polymer clay to make earings, and I wanted to let her try her hand at a couple pen blanks. Now that I understand the process better I am looking forward to collaborating with her. It is always so much fun when our interests cross over and we can work on projects together.

Thanks again to everyone for your patience and willingness to help. That is what I love about this group. You are all very inspiring.

 

[creativewriting]

I forgot to mention the type of clay you use is also very important. Each clay has different charactoristics. I only use two brands (since they stopped making my favorite). Many of them are extremely soft and won't hold up as well to the stress of turning.

Hey Keith what was your favorite clay?

Whatever you do dont use Sculpey III for turning~!!!! I use Premo, Fimo and some Kato. Kato is very hard. I may not turn my pens but I know alot about caning and Polymer clay:biggrin:

I've seen that same report from Garie Int Which Types Of Polymer Clay Is The Strongest? The Tension, Compression And Flexibility Tests To all Types Of Polymer Clay. about brittleness in Sculpey III but I've not seen many issues with it. I've also read other reports stating Fimo Soft having the same problems as Sculpey III, so it's back to what works best for the artist and the resources they have available in their area. I like the color schemes available with Sculpey products and usually mix it with the stronger brands.

Thanks Tina for the link and the invite! I was looking for that link for an hour. That website has changed things up a bit. I know several people who have used Fimo Soft and Sculpy III for as long as I remember. They alway joke around with me that I am too hot blooded to use their clay. I don't have the patience to cane so I go for the hard stuff

 

[MrsPTownSubbie]

I forgot to mention the type of clay you use is also very important. Each clay has different charactoristics. I only use two brands (since they stopped making my favorite). Many of them are extremely soft and won't hold up as well to the stress of turning.

Hey Keith what was your favorite clay?

Whatever you do dont use Sculpey III for turning~!!!! I use Premo, Fimo and some Kato. Kato is very hard. I may not turn my pens but I know alot about caning and Polymer clay:biggrin:

I've seen that same report from Garie Int Which Types Of Polymer Clay Is The Strongest? The Tension, Compression And Flexibility Tests To all Types Of Polymer Clay. about brittleness in Sculpey III but I've not seen many issues with it. I've also read other reports stating Fimo Soft having the same problems as Sculpey III, so it's back to what works best for the artist and the resources they have available in their area. I like the color schemes available with Sculpey products and usually mix it with the stronger brands.

Thanks Tina for the link and the invite! I was looking for that link for an hour. That website has changed things up a bit. I know several people who have used Fimo Soft and Sculpy III for as long as I remember. They alway joke around with me that I am too hot blooded to use their clay. I don't have the patience to cane so I go for the hard stuff

I have met some artists who even refrigerate their Sculpey/Fimo before slicing. It reminds me of working with sugar cookie dough which warms quickly as well. Most days, I just layer with the stronger brands or set it aside for another day if needed. I can't sit for long most days anyway...

 

[Joshua_30]

I encourage creativity! If you didn't have a guide to go by...then ideas that no one else has would come to fruition.

 

[plantman]

Tina, Tim and Tony,

How very civilised of you and others with your genuine sharing on this Post it has quite made my day and restored faith in some aspects of posting well done you three and Darley as well if I missed anyone cause Im old and memory is becoming a thing of the past.

Partisan talk is fine. Having heard from all of you I say there is room for more of this great interaction on the great IAP. Loving this way of sharing.

Kind regards Peter.

:wink::wink: Thank you Peter for those thoughts !! I find, as Toni said, If you love what you are are doing, you enjoy sharing it with other people that have the same interest. And as Tina said, everybody has a different way of doing things, but the final results are gorgeus. There are never any dumb questions, just foolish mistakes. And if we can help someone from making those mistakes by answering those questions and providing information we have gained from making those mistakes ourselfs, that will make our day !! Jim S

 

[teamtexas]

Sculpty blank

I decided to give polymer clay a try. I had some very old Fimo that was dried out and not usable. My local store had some original sculpty so I picked it up, armed myself with a few youtube how to videos and went to work.

Here is the tube with the clay applied.

Here is a video of turning the 1st blank. I cooked it 20 minutes @ 275 degree.
http://youtu.be/OQuSVuRHaGE

100%


100%

The results of trying to sand it. The paper I was using had holes in it that caught the corner and destroyed it.

So I went back and built another. This time I cooked it for about 25 minutes. I turned it the same way, but used sand paper more carefully at the end. The initial sanding was with 400 grit, then I applied about 7 coats of CA (5 thin, 2 thick). I then finished it by sanding up to 12000 and plastic polish.

What do you thnk?
Dan

 

[plantman]

Dan; Very nice pen !!! I will shape my Polymer Clay blanks with small metal files after I turn them round. I always sand my Poly blanks by hand with the lathe off, going from end to end after applying a coat or two of thick CA. Remove all shiny spots with 220 than 600. I than apply 6-8 coats of thick CA. Sand with 1200 and polish. Everyone does it a little different. Remember clay is a lot softer than wood, so light pressure is the key. Jim S