Point on Drill Bit?

[jhs494]

When drilling a pen blank do you use a brad point bit or a standard drill point?
I am wondering if a brad point drill bit is following the grain or is drilling off caused from some other reason.
Would a standard 118 degree drill point or even a 135 degree split point drill bit help?
I am just thinking really drilling in a vise designed for drilling blanks or drilling in a lathe chuck you should achieve the same results. Only one way the drill bit spins and the other way the blank spins. Any thoughts on this?[?]

 

[redfishsc]

Here is my experience.

135-deg split points drill dead center so long as you don't drill in a hurry, and tend to also drill a tad bit quicker, especially on acrylic blanks.

Brad points drill the most dead-center hole, but the 135-split point is a close second. Brad points are slower drilling and you can't sharpen them (the COLT five-stars are good but seem to wear out as fast as any other bit despite their claims).

The 118-degree standard bits will wander a bit, but this happens to be what I use on nearly ALL of my blanks since they are CHEAP in the HF master drill set (HSS).


I drill a pilot hole using either a 135-split point or a brad point (I just use my 7mm bits since I have a good number of them around). Shoot the pilot hole---- I drill all the way through.

This does several things. First, I really only have to sharpen or replace one drill bit (the 7mm) since it does most of the work--- the other drill bits only ream out the hole larger and don't wear out nearly so fast.

Second, the hole is dead-nuts centered since I first drilled with a 135 or a brad point.

Third, this is safer and you will rarely blow up a blank if you are careful (which, being careful regardless of how you drill will save blanks).


THE ONLY caveat I have found, other than being a tad bit more time consuming, is that the second, larger bit will tend to "self-feed" and therefore you have to use caution that it doesn't get sucked down into the blank by the rotational pull.


BTW, I drill on the lathe. Blank held in a jaw chuck w/pin jaws, drill chuck w/MT2 in tailstock. This self-feeding problem is totally eliminated by ONLY using the handwheel/ram to advance the second drill bit slowly and cautiously. I have never tried the pilot-hole method using a drill press, so someone else will have to testify as to whether this is useful on a drill press.

 

[gwilki]

I drill all my blanks with brad points bits, in a drill press. The blank is held in a vice clamped to the drill press table. I've not had to drill a pilot hole, then the main one. I find that drill speed is critical, as is raising the bit frequently to clear the flutes. Also, I don't drill out through the bottom of the blank. I cut the blank a bit long so that I can stop the bit before it blows out the bottom, then cut off the undrilled part. I've drilled antler, all kinds of acrylic and many species of wood, and not had a blow out yet.

 

[jrc]

If your drilling 7mm get an oversized 7mm bullet tip bit from woodturningz. They drill straighter than anyother bit. I've drilled close to 20,000 blanks with them.

 

[toolcrazy]

I bought the HF 135 degree titanium nitride split point set. And they seem to work great. I also have a DD 750 to maintain them. And the set is about 40 bucks.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1611

 

[gerryr]

As far as I'm concerned, brad point bits are a total waste of money. I use the 135 degree HF set like Steve has and also use a Drill Doctor to sharpen them before the first use, split the point and keep them sharp. They drill very straight, whether on the lathe or in my PHD vise.

 

[bgray]

//As far as I'm concerned, brad point bits are a total waste of money.//

Agreed. They seem like a wonderful concept, but they just don't cut well.

 

[stevers]

I like regular point bits. I had a brad point 7mm and ground it off and used the drill doc to finish it up. I don't like the way brad points feel when they go into the wood. They are also too aggressive for me, for pen drilling anyway.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Brad points are best, hands down. I do use a few regular twists for sizes I don't have (yet) in brad point. Split points second best. All mine are done on a drill press.

 

[Texatdurango]

I like 'em all and buy whatever is on sale when I need a new one, which is very seldom since I have the Drill Doctor! [] And wneh I sharpen dull bits, the bits that aren't already split point, soon will be!

 

[Rudy Vey]

I mainly use Bullet Tip (point) drill bits; mine are from DeWalt and come in a set in 1/64" increments up to 1/2". These bits are great and drill straight. The set I have was on sale once at HD and I paid maybe $30 bucks for it (normally they are around $50). I have also several sets of the HF bit when I need an odd sized bit. Great bits are also the so-called "parabolic flute" bits from Berea, they clear the chips very well. Had no good results with brad points bits, they are aggressive and also can be very grabby.