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Old 07-26-2009, 11:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Poblems with a slimline pen

Ive made several slimline pens but have noticed on a couple that after they are pressed together at least a week later the wood will crack where I pressed in the front part of the pen kit.

I usually leave a large amount of wood at the end of the pen so if you have a reason that this is cracking please let me know and what did you do to correct it
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Old 07-27-2009, 12:26 AM   #2 (permalink)
 
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You could have a couple of problems that could be causing the cracks .
First , are you sure that ALL the glue is cleaned out of the tubes before you assemble the pens ?
Second , wood moves , brass does not . If the wood you are using has a higher moisture content it will shrink as it dries . If the hole you drilled is too tight the wood won't have any other choice but to crack as it shrinks around the brass tube , and if there was glue in that tube then the brass tube has been expanded when you pressed in the tip making things even tighter .
One other possibility is that "Some woods just crack " and a cause is never found .
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Old 07-27-2009, 04:16 AM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Default Hi

I use 7mm drills,plenty of free space and have found that using poly glue has some flexibility as does epoxy, some glues are not flexible. Also these days I use the Streamline centre band that allows a more full pen shape and better display of the timber. Drilling too fast can cause undue heat stresses that can result in later cracks in Snakewood,Pink Ivory Wood and many of the Ironwood families, Ebony requires great care and can overheat in the sanding process. Careful gluing ensures an even coating use glues freely, utilise a slice of potato pressed into the end of the brass to ensure cleaner tubes making sure the moisture of the potato is cleaned of before use and popped out while the glue is new.

Have success having really roughed up brass is a must for keyed gluing.

Peter.
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Old 07-27-2009, 10:12 AM   #4 (permalink)
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After you face your blanks, put a little thin CA on the ends, before you turn. This will make the end wood stronger and resist cracking.
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Old 07-27-2009, 08:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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I was having a cracking problem with a number of kits. The wood was apparently not quite dry enough. What I do now is cut and drill the blanks then put them in a marked container with the current date. After about 6 weeks try fitting the tubes inside. If they fit then fine. If not you will have to re-drill.
I know 6 weeks sounds like a long time but if you prep several blanks 2 or 3 times a week then you will have a recurring supply available.
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Old 07-27-2009, 08:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wb7whi View Post
I was having a cracking problem with a number of kits. The wood was apparently not quite dry enough. What I do now is cut and drill the blanks then put them in a marked container with the current date. After about 6 weeks try fitting the tubes inside. If they fit then fine. If not you will have to re-drill.
I know 6 weeks sounds like a long time but if you prep several blanks 2 or 3 times a week then you will have a recurring supply available.
Wayne, you have to be the most patient penturner in the world!! How about....................6 minutes on a good day!
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Old 07-27-2009, 08:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dale View Post
. . .
I usually leave a large amount of wood at the end of the pen . . . dale
So, Dale, do you mean there is wood longer than the tube when your through? Or do you mean you make the diameter quite "fat?" If there is just a smidgin' of wood past the blank, it may be weakened when you press it together and lead to cracking.

Then, like someone already said, sometimes the wood just cracks. some woods are more prone to cracking.
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Old 07-28-2009, 09:17 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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In addition to everything that has been mentioned, you could be raising a burr on the inside of the tube with trimming tool. This will make the fitting tighter, expand the tube, and crack the wood. Remove the burr with a untility klnofe if you are cutting into the tube with the trimming tool. A better solution is to stop the trimmer just short of hitting the end of the brass.
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Old 07-28-2009, 09:54 AM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RussFairfield View Post
In addition to everything that has been mentioned, you could be raising a burr on the inside of the tube with trimming tool. This will make the fitting tighter, expand the tube, and crack the wood. Remove the burr with a untility klnofe if you are cutting into the tube with the trimming tool. A better solution is to stop the trimmer just short of hitting the end of the brass.
Just to add to what Russ said...

You can also get a deburring tool from Arizona Silhouette. It makes assembly easier, too, by knocking off the burr and hard edges of the tubes. I use mine every time!
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Old 07-28-2009, 11:04 AM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Thanks you'll, now I have things to watch for. I have been thinking of getting a moisture meter.
I will look at checking out all of your idea's and find the problem.
The ones that have cracked was Cherry, and Rosewood.
The rosewood I picked up at Grizzlys in Springfield, MO when I was up there a week ago. It did cut like it was wet, it made long ribbons when I was cutting them
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