Perfecting the pen after the fact

[Tiger]

I've examined some of the acrylic pens that I've turned over the years and under sunlight I can see fine scratches, the majority are radial some are axial and some are diagonal. Now we're talking about very fine scratches, I'm usually very attentive about picking up any scratches when I'm turning and my lighting system is adequate but the scratches are there. Has anyone had any success with removing/reducing these scratches after the pen has been completed via a buffing wheel set-up or by any other means?

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Yup buffing wheels are your best option short of or possibly including disassembly.

I'd put them to the wheels first and see if you can get a good result.

If not you can always disassemble and refinish on the lathe

 

[Tiger]

Hi Dan,

Dissassembly is an option on slimlines and some of the cheaper pen kits but I find the higher-end pens to be difficult to take apart without damaging a component. With the buffing wheels would you have to go as far back as using the Tripoli or would the White Diamond and Carnauba wax be sufficient? Also is it just a quick swipe on the wheels or a minute or so? I've got the 3 wheel setup but haven't used it much.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Hi Dan, Dissassembly is an option on slimlines and some of the cheaper pen kits but I find the higher-end pens to be difficult to take apart without damaging a component. With the buffing wheels would you have to go as far back as using the Tripoli or would the White Diamond and Carnauba wax be sufficient? Also is it just a quick swipe on the wheels or a minute or so? I've got the 3 wheel setup but haven't used it much.

I don't find the wax to be helpful at all on pens. With that setup I'd try the white diamond first and see what it does. If not enough, go back to the tripoli the the white diamond. Might have to go tripoli if the scratches are substantial enough If they are acrylics, it won't hurt anything to do tripoli first.

I find 7mm pens the worst to disassemble - getting the tranny out sucks

 

[1080Wayne]

Some platings might buff off . Safest to disassemble first .

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Some platings might buff off . Safest to disassemble first .

I would not buff the platings hard - The clip is the biggest challenge to avoid IMO

However, any plating that would buff off would be a plating I would cease using anyway

 

[Tom T]

I do a number of acrylics and I have very few issues with scratching. Some seem worse than others depending on the color. Fixing to turn black alumni light. See how that goes.

The plating will most likely be an issue.IMHO never have tried. Perhaps blue painters tape to cover the plating would work. Really would work if you can remove the clip. I some times have issues with the scratches going around the blank so I make sure I use tripoli and then white diamond vertically as well. Until they are gone. I also spend the time to go all the way through 12,000mm. I know many think I am crazy to do that. But I have been called crazy before. Let us know how it works. I also look at all mine with a jewelers loop as well to check for scratches.

 

[Rounder]

I always sand through 12,000. Even the wood before I use CA on it. I must be crazy also. Wait, maybe not. Hold on just a minute, I need to talk to myself about that.

I do a number of acrylics and I have very few issues with scratching. Some seem worse than others depending on the color. Fixing to turn black alumni light. See how that goes.

The plating will most likely be an issue.IMHO never have tried. Perhaps blue painters tape to cover the plating would work. Really would work if you can remove the clip. I some times have issues with the scratches going around the blank so I make sure I use tripoli and then white diamond vertically as well. Until they are gone. I also spend the time to go all the way through 12,000mm. I know many think I am crazy to do that. But I have been called crazy before. Let us know how it works. I also look at all mine with a jewelers loop as well to check for scratches.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Sounds crazy to me . Lol

 

[Edgar]

I find 7mm pens the worst to disassemble - getting the tranny out sucks

Not to steal this thread, but I've found a pretty easy way of getting the tranny out of slims..

I slide the tranny into an extra tube all the way up to the tube that's inside the barrel then stand the plain tube upright on a hard metal surface (table saw bed, anvil, etc) and use a transfer punch to drive the tranny out of the barrel & into the extra tube. It usually only takes a couple of light taps.

The two tubes mate up perfectly so the barrel isn't damaged & you can use the other end of the spare tube for another disassembly. I don't bother trying to salvage the trannys - I just throw the tube & trannys away after the 2nd disassembly.

 

[Quality Pen]

Some platings might buff off . Safest to disassemble first .

I was going to say this...

it's a lesson we all must learn but IMO it's best to do the job so you avoid the bigger headache and heartache later... and at least when it's all done you have free reign to buff without concern for components

and we all know we never made a projectile at the buffing wheel!

(least mine have never been bullet tipped!)

:biggrin:

 

[tim self]

One of the main causes for radial scratches is starting with to course grit sand paper. I always start with 320-400 and after sanding radial, I stop the lathe and sand axial. If you notice the "shiny" will have radial shiny lines after initial sanding, especially on CA. I sand axial until all shiny and waves are gone and then start with MM. After initial sanding, I have even experimented with just Brasso and Plastic polish with acceptable results for a more matte sheen.

Don't be afraid to try to disassemble anything. the hardest thing I've found to remove is the center band on a Jr type pen. As we all know, if it's not perfect or near, it's likely not going to sell anyhow.

 

[Sylvanite]

When I want to restore the gloss on a pen that has developed light surface scratches, I'll disassemble the pen (if possible) and buff the scratches out of the barrel(s). If it happens that the kit is one that doesn't come apart well (such as the Jr. Gent), then I'll hand-polish the surface finish using Novus 3 and Novus 2 on a chamois.

I hope that helps,
Eric