Pen Mill Recommendations

[George_Clark]

I'd like some recommendations for a pen mill to square the ends of my pen blanks to the tubes from members who have actually used the product they are recommending.

I purchased a "complete pen mill set" form Woodcraft and promptly ripped the end off the first two blanks I tried to square. It doesn't seem very sharp and it certainly is death on dymondwood. Does anyone have a source for a carbide mill they are happy with.

Perhaps my technique is lacking. I'd be happy to hear how you use your mill.

I've been squaring on my disk sander, but that only works if the blank is square and drilled straight, and a lot of my stabilized blanks resemble a dog's rear leg and don't get drilled straight.

Thanks in advance for your input.

 

[Woodlvr]

George,
I could not find the reference but there is a post about making your own sander. I just reversed the cutting head on a trimmer used a handheld hole punch and punched a hole in a piece of sticky back sandpaper and cut a 1" circle and stuck it on the back of the cutter works great. Again this is NOT my idea just one I read from one of our great members. I take the head off of the shaft and trace circles on a piece of the sandpaper and then punch the hole in it and cut them out. I hope that this makes sense as I am not good at explaining things. (Obviously) I hope that this helps.

 

[mitchm]

George, is it a 2 blade mill head that you are using? IMHO the 2 blade mill head grabs the ends of the blanks causing blow-out or breakage. The 4 blade and 6 blade heads, when used at a slow speed are far more gentle with fragile blanks, just keep the blades sharp and use little pressure at low speeds.

Hope this helps!

 

[spiritwoodturner]

George, I just started a thread last night about the same thing. I'm looking for 4 bladed carbide tipped trimmers, with little luck so far. I've emailed a few members, but it's still early.

Have you used these a lot, or are you starting out? If you are just starting to use them, there is a right way and a wrong way, as others have alluded to. Slow speed, and super light touch is critical, no matter how sharp it is. I blew a few out when I was starting, but I had them in a vise and leaned on them too hard. I'm not recommending this to anyone, but I hold the blank in my hand now. I've done hundreds of pens that way and never gotten hurt. I can feel when I'm getting too much pressure, in fact, I advance the blank into the drill more than the other way around. If you're not comfortable trying that, then don't, but too much pressure with a brand new mill is my guess.

I also wouldn't start honing this skill with Dymondwood! That stuff is tough by design. Also, if you only have 1 mill, be prepared to be without it for periods of time getting it sharpened if you do much Dymondwood. I have 2 of each size, but need 2 more for just that reason.

If you find any 4 bladed carbide-tipped ones, please let me know. I'll do the same. Note that I don't want the carbide because it will be any sharper, I just think it will hold its edge longer.

Good Luck,
Dale

P.S. The PSI one is 2 bladed. I wouldn't give a plug nickle for that one, but that's just me. It makes no sense if you think about it to have only 2 blades whirling around, trying to fine a balance and also doing all the cutting. I would guess about 5 passes with that thing and it's back to the sharpener.

 

[rjwolfe3]

I would recommend sanding with a jig for Dymondwood or any wood that has plys or segments. Also softer woods. I have had blowouts with brand new 4 and 6 blade mills following all of the correct procedures.

 

[chuybregts]

George, the issue is the pen mill isn't sharp. I had the same issues with my woodcraft one. I sharpened it using the info found herePenturners Yahoo Group (you'll probably need to get signed up to get access to the files)

Once you sharpen them, they work great!

 

[mdburn_em]

You need one of Nolan's carbide-tipped pen mills. I have 2 and it would be impossible for me to be happier with them.

I don't think a pen mill should be used with Diamond Wood. Period!

For that I would use Firefyter-emt's sanding mill. I have both. You could reverse your sanding mill and get something close to his mill.

There are instructions in the library for making a jig to use with a disk sander. I haven't done that yet. I was going to and then I got Nolan's mill. Now that's on a (way) back-burner.

 

[spiritwoodturner]

You need one of Nolan's carbide-tipped pen mills. I have 2 and it would be impossible for me to be happier with them.

I don't think a pen mill should be used with Diamond Wood. Period!

For that I would use Firefyter-emt's sanding mill. I have both. You could reverse your sanding mill and get something close to his mill.

There are instructions in the library for making a jig to use with a disk sander. I haven't done that yet. I was going to and then I got Nolan's mill. Now that's on a (way) back-burner.

When did you get one of Nolan's mills? I hope it was recent. I'd love a few, but I'm not sure if any are available.

Dale

 

[mdburn_em]

When did you get one of Nolan's mills? I hope it was recent. I'd love a few, but I'm not sure if any are available.

Dale

I got mine in November.

 

[JimB]

I have the same pen mill and it works without any problems although I have never used it on Dymondwood. If you look in the library there is a piece on how to sharpen it. I sharpen every 6 to 8 pens or so.

I also use it the same way as Spritwoodtunner holding the blank in my (gloved) hand and use a cordless drill. I like this method because I can feel what it is doing and if it is getting dull. I've done about 70 pens this way without any problems.

 

[dabeeler]

I have the same pen mill and just got it back from being sharpened by forum member Paul_in_OKC. It didn't cut this easy when it was brand new. You can get his contact info in the members list. The next new one I buy will be sent to him for sharpening before I use it the first time.

 

[KP]

using the disk sander easily

For what it's worth, I will sometimes opt for the disk sander with delicate blanks, or with bigger blanks. The way I use it is to cut a short length of scrap wood with a square cross-section. Then I turn part of it to fit inside the tube. Then I hold the still-square part against my disk sander miter gauge (set to 90 with a square, of course), mount the blank needing trimming on the round end, and advance into the disk sander. Seems to keep the end squared on the tube, and it's easier than making the jig, although with this you need to make one for each size tube. I'm just a hobbyist at this, though.

Easier to do than write down, I think.

Ken