Pen Finishes

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mwvore

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I've been turning for a few years and have come up with what
I like for boxes,hollow-forms and bowls, but have just begun to
turn pens semi-seriously and am wondering what finishes most
turners use, and like. And what do the buyers seem to like
at Craft Shows, etc.

So far I've tried a few different steps

1 sanding sealer
2 Sam Malof (sp?) oil mix
3 Hut Pen Wax.

1 Sam Malof oul mix
2 sanding sealer
3 Hut Pen Wax

1 Sanding Sealer
2 Hut Pen Wax


1 Hut Penb Wax, anywhere from 2 to 6 applicatons

Mainly I've been sanding:
1 180 to shape
2 220
3 320 (sometimes skip this one)
4 400
5 600
6 1500

After a sanding sealer application I may drop down one
grade and resand from there back up through the grits
to 600 or 1500 which ever I feel like stopping at.

So far I haven't tried the CA finish.

Ok what 'secret' finish do you use?

mike
 
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ilikewood

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I think this whole subject is "subjective". Each penturner has found what works best for themselves and what their customers (if they sell) or friends (gifts) like.

There are several friction finishes on the market. Easy to use but maybe not as durable.

Lacquer sprays and dips work good if you can master the techniques.

CA as you mentioned.

Or even combinations of CA and BLO (boiled linseed oil)

I personally use CA as a sealant, resand and then use a lacquer. I'm sure there are bunches who have their own preference here in this group.

Bill in Idaho
 

Crashresq

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Okmulgee, OK, USA.
I sand up thru 400 then seal with thin CA. Start sanding again at 400 up thru 2500. At this point, the wood is polished and starting to shine. I then use a piece of brown paper bag and polish it with the lathe running at about 2100 rpms. I've found that if the wood already has a nice sheen, when the finish you put on it starts wearing (and regardless of what you put on, it will wear off) the pen will keep a nice shine. After polishing with the brown paper, I put a coat of Hut Crystal coat on. Depending on the wood, I sometimes put a second coat of Hut on.

I personally haven't tried the CA finish, but on the pens I've seen that had that, it looked too "plastic" for my taste. That's just my opinion, others may vary...

Bill in OK
 

leenollie

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San Antonio, Texas, USA.
Hi Mike,

I guess the finish that YOU like the best is the best one for you. I have experimented (and am still experimenting) with different finishes. Your sanding practice is real good (I only sand to 1200 grit myself). Sanding sealer or thin CA is very good for sealing. I, myself, use the BLO / CA finishing technique. But the thing to remember is: no finish lasts forever. The more you use it, the faster the wear is going to be.

I have a slimline pen that made two months ago and I use everyday (severe heavy usage.) The pen had 3 coats of BLO/CA and two coats of HUT Crystal Coat. Close to the nib, where I hold it, is starting to wear. For the amount of use I put it through, I think this is normal wear.

So, whichever finish gives you the longest wear, and one that you like to do, is the one you should use.

Lee Biggers
The ever curious pen turner [:)]
 

Paul Downes

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Westphalia, Mi, USA.
I'm rather new to this issue also, but would suggest that because of the different physical propeties of wood; oil content, wax, resin, etc. that no one finish will work for all wood. I happen to have a lot of figured maple, and like more contrast to show the accents in the wood, so I have used BLO, tung oil and some minwax stains to create more contrast. I then have been using wax paper and CA with a little BLO for the second coat, followed by 2-3 coats of CA, followed by 2 HUT waxes, followed by crystal coat. I believe the higher gloss finishes sell better. Some of the metal parts I have turned I have coated with lacquer. I am thinking that if sales pick up I will have to streamline the process.....Lots of experiments to do....
 

Daniel

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From Two years of Penturning adn participating in the various groups, I ahve concluded that the variation on finishes is endless. But three staples stick out in my mind.
1.CA
2. Mylands
3. Polyurethane
Shellac is mentioned at times but it seems even those seriously looking for the ultimate finish donot mess with it for long. who has a week or more to finish each pen? I guess.
anyway the application also varies but he basic application for CA is
sand barrels to whatever you prefer. I go up to 320 grit adn then seal wood using ca. basically this is the ca mixing withthe sawdust to make a putty that both fills and seals the wood.
I backtrack one step in grit and start sanding again this time to 4000 Micro Mesh. this is the beginning of what I consider the Buffing stage of MM.
I then apply the CA finish. Basically whipping hte CA on while the blank turns on the lathe. this finish comes out rough. so I start sanding again withthe finist grit that will smooth the CA. usually about 400 grit and again work my way through the grits to 12000 MM.
I then apply a coat or two of Hut Crystal Coat. or Shellawax.
this is my basic for all pens finish. I have used just shellawax. Varnish. and Polyurethane but return to the CA.
CA Finish has alot to be desired on dark woods.
 

Paul Russell

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What does Crystal Coat or Shellawax add to a pen finished with CA? It should already be impervious to anything. If it is MMed to 12000, it can't get any more glossy. Are you really just adding a wax coat? And if so, why not just hit it with Carnuba wax?
 

ilikewood

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Most friction finishes like Crystal Coat have shellac and wax in them. If you use just wax, that finish wears off very rapidly and needs rebuffing often. The mixture of the shellac and waxes makes it much more durable. Some use it as a direct finish on woods, while others just use it as a final polish for that super shine. Either way is the option of the penturner.

Bill in Idaho
 

Stuart

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Red Oak, Texas, USA.
I've just started turning pens and have what is really a slight problem. My finish so far is sanding to 1500 and then wet sanding with Danish oil at 2000. I then polish with white diamond and wax. This works fine except on Maple. The wet sanding seems to pick up some black tarnish from the bushings which causes a slight discoloring. Any suggestion on a better way?

Stuart
 

NCTurner

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Stuart,
first, be sure and put a LIGHT coat of wax on the bushings before you mount them on the lathe. Further, put a light coat of thin CA on the ends of your barrels. Then, after you turn to finished size, and before you start sanding, put a light coat of thin CA on your blanks. It's ok to go on top of the bushings....preferrable, actually. The Ca helps fill the pores, and also puts a thin layer of CA on the bushings, keeping you from sanding the metal from them and on to your wood. The filled pores also help prevent the metal from settling in them.
 

pecartus

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First , Greg's suggestion is a good one and works very well. I would like to throw in another suggestion. I use wood dowels for my finishing phase, I cut and drill holes in a wood dowel and insert them on the mandrel as you would your metal bushings, sand away and apply finish as you desired, I have not seen any dark rings appear using this method on light wood or the translucent AA blanks. The wood dowels are very cheap and I usually can get quite few pens done with one set of wood dowels. The reason I use wood dowels versus the metal bushing, is the wear and tear on metal, even with wax and CA, sanding does wear on the bushing. Just an additional suggestion.
 

pecartus

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Iwanted to add this since I missed it in my earlier post, I use a birch or maple dowel I pickup from a local Lumber yard or Home Center. The birch and/or maple is a hardwood, thats longer than a white pine which is softer. Let us know how it turns out and post a picture of your pen.
 

Daniel

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Stuart,
I have had bad experiences with wet sanding many of the woods. Cracks show up later. have youseen any of this. I did not notice it with stabalized wood though.
 

Stuart

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Red Oak, Texas, USA.
Daniel,
I have just started turning pens so I don't know about cracks showing up. So far all I have turned are blanks cut from kiln dried stock I have on hand ... Walnut, White Oak, Maple. The wet sanding I'm doing is more to apply an oil finish to pop the grain. It is buffed dry as soon as it is applied. I sure hope there isn't going to be a problem because I am just about ready to send off my first batch of pens for the Freedom Pen Project. I think I'll wait a week to see if anything happens.
 

timdaleiden

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Wausau, WI, USA.
Originally posted by Daniel
<br />Stuart,
I have had bad experiences with wet sanding many of the woods. Cracks show up later. have youseen any of this. I did not notice it with stabalized wood though.

Daniel,
I think you misunderstood his method. He is using Danish oil, not water, as wet or slurry sanding. It sounds interesting, I may try it sometime. I know Danish does dry pretty quickly. I have used CA and Sanding sealer as a slurry. Both work.
 

timdaleiden

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Originally posted by Stuart
<br />Daniel,
I have just started turning pens so I don't know about cracks showing up. So far all I have turned are blanks cut from kiln dried stock I have on hand ... Walnut, White Oak, Maple. The wet sanding I'm doing is more to apply an oil finish to pop the grain. It is buffed dry as soon as it is applied. I sure hope there isn't going to be a problem because I am just about ready to send off my first batch of pens for the Freedom Pen Project. I think I'll wait a week to see if anything happens.

Stuart,

Using Danish oil will not contribute to cracking of the wood. When you said you wet sanded your wood, it may have been misunderstood. Generally speaking, wet sanding is a term that is associated with the use of water (such as with acrylics). Your method is more commonly called a slurry sanding, assuming you are not using water as well.
Your pens should be ok to send off.
 

Daniel

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Tim,
I didn't catch the Danish oil detail. I also hadn't though of doing it that way. Ah well I have now become hooked on Micro Mesh. but you never know I may find myself on a trail of discovery one of these days and just giv eit a spin.
 

orionlx200

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Apr 24, 2004
Messages
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Location
Sarnia, Ontario, Canada.
Originally posted by Daniel
sand barrels to whatever you prefer. I go up to 320 grit adn then seal wood using ca. basically this is the ca mixing withthe sawdust to make a putty that both fills and seals the wood.
I backtrack one step in grit and start sanding again this time to 4000 Micro Mesh. this is the beginning of what I consider the Buffing stage of MM.
I then apply the CA finish. Basically whipping hte CA on while the blank turns on the lathe. this finish comes out rough. so I start sanding again withthe finist grit that will smooth the CA. usually about 400 grit and again work my way through the grits to 12000 MM.
I then apply a coat or two of Hut Crystal Coat. or Shellawax.
this is my basic for all pens finish. I have used just shellawax. Varnish. and Polyurethane but return to the CA.
CA Finish has alot to be desired on dark woods.
I must admitt to being rather new to CA finishes but it was Daniel's method I ended using with a little difference[:)]I didn't have any "Crystal Coat" so just tried some different stuff I had handy.I happened to try one with,you won't believe this,Mother's Aluminum buffing polish.This is a white paste and I just put a tiny amount on the pen after reaching 12000MM and buffed it out at high-moderate lathe speed and a clean linen cloth.After a few seconds it just went like glass[:D] It doesn't in any way look "plastic" and I know if it somehow "wears off" the pen underneath is shiny anyway.I personally feel since this is a buffing material and not a wax it won't wear off but may scratch up with use as any finished pen will do.The only draw back to my "system" is the Wife may want her motorcycle polish back when she gets the Goldwing back on the road[:)]Hope this helps out someone stuck for a final "coat" and my thanks to Daniel and the others that helped me get to a proper level of CA finish.I bet in time it will be considered the "Black Art Of CA Finishing" [:D]
 

Daniel

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Tom,
I was just looking at your ship models. I would love totry one of those someday.i would have no place to keep it when done though. they are beautiful. wish the pics where bigger though. all that deatail that goes into this is not showing.
 

wayneis

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Okemos, Michigan, USA.
Another thing that workes really nice for than final touch is "Meguires Mirror Glaze". I believe that most automotive places will carry it. The Company that I buy the commercial poly endorses and sells it for use with both their poly and lacquer as that final buffing to get that really high glass like shine. I find the difference is very noticeable. It just gives it that deep look.

Wayne
 
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