Pen Finish Question

[Ron in Drums PA]

Hi Folks

I'm new here so I hope you don't mind me asking a few questions on pen finishes.

I've turned a few slimline and cigar pens recently. I sanded to 2000 wet/dry then applied BLO with a pad then 3 coats of CA to the barrel with the same pad. I buffed and then waxed. They looked gorgeous when I first assembled them.

But after a few days of using them I noticed there are some "dull" spots. Is this normal or is my finish inferior?

TIA

 

[Old Griz]

Sounds like too much BLO... I stopped using the BLO/CA finish because if you get a little too much BLO in the mixture it can cause that kind of clouding or dullness... not on all woods but on some... for me it was just easier to go to Cellulose sanding sealer and then CA... if I use BLO, it is to pop the grain before the sanding sealer...

 

[Ron in Drums PA]

Thanks Tom
The BLO was used to pop some highly figured maple and I wiped the barrel dry to remove any excess. Although there was some BLO still on the pad to help lubricate the CA while turning.

Maybe I have "acid fingers"

 

[Scott]

It does sound like too much BLO, but I can't hardly believe that is really the cause. I still like to use the CA/BLO finish, and my method uses quite a bit of BLO, and I don't get these dull spots. But then I do my finish in a way that has the CA and the BLO mixing together during application. I believe this changes the chemical structure of both the CA and the BLO, and enhances the flow of CA onto the pen.

I used to get dull spots when I was doing just a straight CA finish, and I always felt that they were caused by impurities on the surface of the blank - moisture, oils, whatever. You might try eliminating possible problems such as old CA and old BLO. Try sanding only to 600 then apply the finish. Make sure the pen blank is dry. If it is an oily wood, then wipe it down with a good solvent (I use acetone) to eliminate surface oils. I find that cocobolo, which is oily, just fouls up my regular CA/BLO finish! But these are just fishing for answers - I really don't know what could be causing the spots. Maybe you do have acid fingers! ;-)

But don't give up on it - it really is a pretty good finish for most woods. But I've also never found a "perfect" finish, so try adjusting some of the variables and see what happens!

Good Luck!

Scott.

 

[Thumbs]

I don't know about you,<b> Ron</b>, but these guys have so many great techniques, I get confused![]

 

[Thumbs]

Hey, <b>Ron</b>! I'm meeting <b>Knotty Harry</b> over at Grizzly's tomorrow at 130P! Why don't you join us?[][]

Umm.... I hope neither of you are teachers or related to any or I'm in <b>BIG</b> trouble![}]

 

[leehljp]

Ron,

I am relatively new also and have had similar problems. I had a stint of 3 or 4 pens early on that came out great - after I followed the directions of BLO-CA on this site. Then I started having that problem again. I went through 5 or 6 pens that I refinished several times and set them aside, just scratching my head.

Then I noticed two different things I that I think I was doing wrong or slightly off from the BLO-CA instructions.

1. I was sanding a little too hard and too long, - just a few seconds with a little too much pressure will remove thin layers of CA in spots, but the fine sanding and combination of BLO and wax can still make it glossy - only to rub off in these spots later. This happened with HUT on several and I quite using HUT after reading of some others with similar problem. In order for me to have a good uniform glossy look, It has to be coated uniformly with CA and built up in layers. I feel that my problem was that I was taking it off in the same place without letting it build up. I think this is something that our experienced users take for granted, but as a newbie, I was not aware of it for several pens.

2. I had used "too much" on one pen and learned my lesson. It took a good bit of sanding to get it smooth again. My reaction was to cut the CA down a little too much after that. Soon I started getting the dull spots again.

More than likely the guys responses above will be your answer, but if not, maybe this can help.

 

[knottyharry]

Hi Ron,
Come join us if you want.
I'm in the Dallas area.
Harry

 

[Ron in Drums PA]

Thank Bob and Harry.
I promised LOML we would do yard work today. I'll have to pass

Do you guys know of a turning club around by us?
If not, maybe we can start one.

 

[Ron in Drums PA]

I don't think my problem is to much BLO. I really used very little, but the can is about 10 months old. After I apply CA all I do is buff, it's possible I'm losing the CA here. Maybe my problem is I'm rushing everything and should let the BLO/CA dry overnight before I buff and assemble.

BTW I just noticed there is a forum on this site for finishes, sorry about posting in the wrong place.

 

[Scott]

Hi Ron,

I'm lucky if I let my finish "set" for ten minutes before buffing! Now lacquer I let set overnight, and no buffing. But the beauty of CA is that it sets up quickly, forming those long chain molecules very quickly. I do apply about four coats of finish. And like I say, it's not perfect, and some woods just don't take to it well.

Try some nice fresh BLO, and some fresh glue while you're at it. Good Luck!

And yes, there is a finishing forum here. As soon as responses slow down on this thread it may be moved over there to keep it with similar topics, but it's OK here as well because it gets a bit more exposure here. In other words, don't worry! ;-)

Scott.

 

[Ron in Drums PA]

Thanks Scott
I tried CA with no BLO on a maple burl pen I gave my wife. Same results with bright and dull spots after a few days. The CA glue is 2 months old at the most.

Today I tried something different, my old stand by, Waterlox. I'll have to wait a few days before I can buff and assemble to see how it works out.