Painting Blanks & Tubes

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Jamesomac

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Mar 22, 2013
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Does anyone have any opinions on what type of paint to use on tubes and blanks. I would prefer to use water based hobby paint applied with a cotton swab, but found that the two-part epoxy dissolved the paint. Maybe I didn't wait long enough for it to dry. I tried spraying from a can, and that created a mess. I use the epoxy instead of CA glue because I don't work fast enough to use CA.
 
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r1237h

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Mar 30, 2012
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Port Moody, British Columbia
Does anyone have any opinions on what type of paint to use on tubes and blanks. I would prefer to use water based hobby paint applied with a cotton swab, but found that the two-part epoxy dissolved the paint. Maybe I didn't wait long enough for it to dry. I tried spraying from a can, and that created a mess. I use the epoxy instead of CA glue because I don't work fast enough to use CA.


Have you tried thick CA?
 
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It's not your original Q, but I've used epoxy (varying set times and I prefer the 5 minute), I've used CA (thin, medium and the "special" formulation sold by PSI), I've used expanding polyurethane glues (aka Gorilla glue) and I prefer the 5 minute, 2 part epoxy. I find the epoxy a little too short on set time, but the end result has (IMHO) the longest lasting structure. It retains a wee bit of flexibility and does NOT get brittle over time (the polyurethane glue does - again IMHO).

To your original Q - when I paint, I usually use a "hobby store" set of acrylics. I've had excellent results. I paint both the blank AND the tube (belt & suspenders mindset). I've found that without a fan the blank doesn't get much air circulation and it requires a lot more dry time than the tube. When I need white or black, I spray. I have a tapered dowel that is my tube holder. When I do the blank I put on some nitrile gloves and hold it.

One other thing - when you paint both the tube AND the blank, you occasionally tend to make the fit too tight. So I test the fit before I paint and, if necessary, I "ream" the blank a bit with 220 wrapped around a dowel or whatever.

Hope this answers your Q
 

Monty

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No, I never tried the thick. How long is the working time before everything freezes up?

Depends. I was using the stick-fast glue, and had a good while to properly spin and seat tubes. Now, I have the E-Z Bond glue, and if I don't get the tube positioned within a few seconds, I'm screwed.
With EZ Bond thick, you should have 15-20 seconds to get the tube set.
 
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I started using acrylics and had the same problem on occasion. Someone on a forum here suggested Testors model paint and I haven't had any problems since switching. Not quite the variety of colors available but I'm satisfied so far.
 

panamag8or

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No, I never tried the thick. How long is the working time before everything freezes up?

Depends. I was using the stick-fast glue, and had a good while to properly spin and seat tubes. Now, I have the E-Z Bond glue, and if I don't get the tube positioned within a few seconds, I'm screwed.
With EZ Bond thick, you should have 15-20 seconds to get the tube set.

It was more like 8-10 seconds. I was dealing with historic wood and expensive kits, so I was :eek:, almost having a disaster. I barely had time to insert the tube before it was sticking. Maybe I should put it in the fridge, like they say.
 

BSea

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I use the acrylic paints from Michaels, and glue the tube in with 5 minute epoxy. If your paint is being dissolved by the epoxy, I don't think you've let it cure long enough. It needs to be more than dry to the touch. I wait at least overnight, and usually have a fan blowing through the tubes during that time. I know others that put their painted tubes in a toaster oven to speed drying.

You can also add a small amount (a very small amount) of paint to the epoxy to help tinting. If you add too much the glue won't harden. Just a small amount on a toothpick will do. No more than a drop.
 

Carl Fisher

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I use the acrylic paints from Michaels, and glue the tube in with 5 minute epoxy. If your paint is being dissolved by the epoxy, I don't think you've let it cure long enough. It needs to be more than dry to the touch. I wait at least overnight, and usually have a fan blowing through the tubes during that time. I know others that put their painted tubes in a toaster oven to speed drying.

You can also add a small amount (a very small amount) of paint to the epoxy to help tinting. If you add too much the glue won't harden. Just a small amount on a toothpick will do. No more than a drop.

This is exactly the method I use as well. Acrylic paint tubes are dirt cheap at Michaels or Hobby Lobby (like $0.99 each) an besides reverse painting the blank, a very small drop of paint in the epoxy mixed up will do nicely to color the epoxy. Between these two you should never have a problem unless you didn't wait long enough for the paint to dry.
 

Jamesomac

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Mar 22, 2013
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Nova Scotia
I bought some 2 OZ bottles of acrylic from Walmart (I could not find Testors) and tried that after reading all the comments. This time I allowed for a longer drying time, and even dried the inside of the blank with my wife's hairdryer. I then used the 2-part epoxy and it worked fine. The paint did not dissolve at all. Next time I will try adding a drop to the glue mixture.

One thing I noticed is that, because the paints tends to lay pretty thick, it may be necessary to ream out the blank slightly with a dowel and sandpaper first.
 

tim self

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Oct 2, 2008
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Atoka, Oklahoma
For sanding the inside, I went to the extreme. A 2x3 piece of Abranet glued to a 7mm tube (only along one edge). An old 1/4" drill bit inside to prevent collapse and then "drill" the blank wet sanding. Especially helpful if using a clear or translucent blank for removing drill marks. Then paint. It "reams" the blank and leaves a smoother surface.
 
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