Oversized Hole, Recovery?
- Thread starter ghansen4
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Gary Beasley
Member
Set it aside for another kit that uses 12.5. Thats a milimeter gap all around the tube, next to impossible to fill with glue and keep centered and you would likely turn through the wood on any kit to finished size.
Woodchipper
Member
Put the blank in some sort of container and mark it. I have a habit of not doing this and then rack my brain to try and remember what it is.
gtriever
Member
Been there, done that more times than I like. Write the hole size on it, toss it in the 'OOPS' tray and go again.
Well, hold on a minute.
I think it is possible to recover in this particular case.
You don't say if the blank is wood or acrylic. I will assume it is wood.
All you have to do is turn a dowel down to size of 12.5 mm and glue it into your oversize hole. Let the glue dry and cure. Then drill to the correct size
If it is an acrylic blank then make the dowel out of the exact same acrylic blank.
I think it is possible to recover in this particular case.
You don't say if the blank is wood or acrylic. I will assume it is wood.
All you have to do is turn a dowel down to size of 12.5 mm and glue it into your oversize hole. Let the glue dry and cure. Then drill to the correct size
If it is an acrylic blank then make the dowel out of the exact same acrylic blank.
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Mal, of course it has to be a hybrid.... Pinecone with acrylic. I do like your idea of turning a dowel then inserting that. Why does the material matter? It is for a Zen kit, the bushing size is .512 which is basically 13mm, so my 12.5mm hole theoretically leaves me with .5mm. is that enough?
mark james
IAP Collection, Curator
This will work as long as the final OD is large enough to not turn down to the dowel, unless my thinking is flawed (for the wood). For the acrylic, why use an exact acrylic blank as an insert to repair another blank? Just use the new blank? (Not to be critical, just pondering the suggestions).
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That 0.5mm is divided by 2. You would only have 0.25mm (1/100") thick material if you re-drilled perfectly in the middle of the dowel. You could add spacers on each end so that the recovered blank is in a thicker section of the pen body.
You might could recast the hole with matching color (good luck) resin and drill again.
Looks like you have some good cap material for a Jr. series pen.
Danny
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Mark, some people keep all their scraps and offcuts ... that's what I was thinking of
And if the "final OD is NOT large enough to not turn down to the dowel" he wouldn't be doing this in the first place !! :biggrin::biggrin: - just a friendly poke, Mark
(I love double negatives ! :biggrin: )
And if the "final OD is NOT large enough to not turn down to the dowel" he wouldn't be doing this in the first place !! :biggrin::biggrin: - just a friendly poke, Mark
(I love double negatives ! :biggrin: )
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Pinecone with acrylic could be very tricky at that material thickness.
That is why I first mentioned that you did not specify the blank material.
That material was probably a bad choice for that pen in any case, just my humble opinion and not a criticism.
(13 mm final OD - 10.5 mm hole using the "correct" drill) leaves material thickness of 1.25mm = 0.050" ..... not too bad but a little marginal for a acrylic/pinecone blank from at least 2 points of view .... strength for turning/sanding and brass show through (which you can get around by painting to certain extent)
There is one other thing you can do to improve the wall thickness issue ...... a little teensy weensy bit ....
And that is to use a drill bit which is just a little tiny bit smaller than 10.5 mm
I don't remember what I have used for a Zen, but you can get away with a slightly smaller drill bit. . You would have to measure the brass tube with calipers and look up what drill size would come close to that, making sure to have enough clearance for gluing. . Secure gluing would be a very important issue given the "flaky" composition of some pinecone.
That is why I first mentioned that you did not specify the blank material.
That material was probably a bad choice for that pen in any case, just my humble opinion and not a criticism.
(13 mm final OD - 10.5 mm hole using the "correct" drill) leaves material thickness of 1.25mm = 0.050" ..... not too bad but a little marginal for a acrylic/pinecone blank from at least 2 points of view .... strength for turning/sanding and brass show through (which you can get around by painting to certain extent)
There is one other thing you can do to improve the wall thickness issue ...... a little teensy weensy bit ....
And that is to use a drill bit which is just a little tiny bit smaller than 10.5 mm
I don't remember what I have used for a Zen, but you can get away with a slightly smaller drill bit. . You would have to measure the brass tube with calipers and look up what drill size would come close to that, making sure to have enough clearance for gluing. . Secure gluing would be a very important issue given the "flaky" composition of some pinecone.
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Gregory Hardy
Member
Given the circumstances (pine cone blank, et al), Brother Danny speaks the wise truth. The only thing I would do is glue a tube in now (12.5) and label it. That doesn't make the current issue better, but it makes the next pen a little easier!