which one do you use??

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wizical

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Jun 14, 2007
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Los Angeles, ca, USA.
I was wondering which mandrel people like to use on here? I was considering getting the Beall chuck. Right now i use a standard Mandrel with a #2 morse taper. Will I get a better read out from the chuch? thanks
 
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GoodTurns

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Apr 20, 2007
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give up the mandrel! dead center on the head, live center on the tail, bushings and blank in between. you'll be glad you did!
 

Dario

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Beall here.

I am one of the first to try turning between centers (with dead center and live center) and a proponent for some time but stopped because I personally believe (and I may be mistaken) that it may lead to premature wearing of the lathe bearings.
 

Sylvanite

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Hillsborough, North Carolina, USA.
I have a Beall collet chuck, but am still happy with the results I get from my regular mandrels. I like the adjustable Maxi-Mandrel that WoodNWhimsies sells. If the tailstock is true, the center is secure, and the nut isn't over-tight, then I get nice, concentric results. I usally do most of the turning at high speed, but slow the lathe down low for my final cuts. That works best for me.

Regards,
Eric
 

karlkuehn

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I really like the adjustable mandrels that Bill at Arizona Silhouette sells, the ones that only require an allen set screw to adjust. I hate having to drag out and control those giant wrenches on my first adjustable from PSI. The ones from AZ are really high-quality milling and easy to swap out of the lathe for different sized rods. very reasonable price for what you get.
 

GBusardo

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Beachwood, NJ, USA.
Originally posted by Dario

Beall here.

I am one of the first to try turning between centers (with dead center and live center) and a proponent for some time but stopped because I personally believe (and I may be mistaken) that it may lead to premature wearing of the lathe bearings.

Dario, I can't think of why this would put strain on the bearings. Can you fill me in? Thanks
 

leehljp

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I am not the professional but can only give my experience. I have used the 2MT and mandrel. I have 4 mandrels, 3 "A" and 1 "B". I also have the Beall and it gives a minor improvement for me.

IF a person has a good MT2 setup and is getting next to perfection out of it, then a Beall will not improve it. But if there is a problem in the MT2 setup along with the mandrels, then a Beall will help. The Beall is totally dependent on the fine tolerances on the outside of the drive housing while the MT 2 is dependent on the inside tolerances.

Personally, I have gone to the mandrelless, turning between centers with a dead drive. For me, it eliminates the possibility of bent mandrel, over tightened mandrel, stuck bushings and chipped CA ends on oily blanks.
 

Dario

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Originally posted by GBusardo


Dario, I can't think of why this would put strain on the bearings. Can you fill me in? Thanks

Gary,

First this is just my theory.

Turning between centers rely on friction and metal to metal there is not much unless you put pressure. Though some bearing are designed for it, lathe bearings does not work too well with pressure exerted through the axis/axial load (unless I am mistaken). They can, however, take a lot of radial loads.

As I said, I was a proponent of it (turning between centers) but decided to get a Beall instead rather than risk damaging my lathe.
 

its_virgil

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Jan 1, 2004
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Wichita Falls, TX, USA.
I use the "B" mandrel and ream all bushings to work on the larger mandrel. I like the extra stiffness. I also use the Beall Collet chuck to hold the mandrel and to hold lots of other parts also.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by leehljp

I have 4 mandrels, 3 "A" and 1 "B". I also have the Beall and it gives a minor improvement for me.
 
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