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Old 04-29-2014, 05:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed4copies View Post
When speaking about procedures in penmaking, I have often said, "This is the way I do it, there are many other ways that may work just as well--if you are using a way that works for you---keep doing it!!"

What I don't say is equally true---there are MANY ways to do it wrong, so one solution will not fit EVERY problem.

BTW Smitty, your level will work fine, as long as your floor is level. If the drill press is standing on a crooked floor, making the table completely horizontal will not result in a straight hole. The coat hanger trick will make the table perpendicular to the drill head, which will result in a straight hole. (unless the bit itself is bent, but that would mean only one size hole would be crooked and more likely it would be oversize, as well.)

FWIW,
Ed
In my case when the table is level it is also square with the drill. I established that when I originally set the drill press up.where the drill is sitting the floor IS level, the stand table the drill press is on IS level and parallel to the floor so when the drill table is level it falls in.


My main point is that I have had one blank give me a perfect hole, the next be not streight and the next perfect again. I always thought that some how I was somehow getting the blank into the vise on a cant ot that the blank was a different sizes on the ends...they are often not perfectly square and a straight hole will seem to be off.
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Old 04-29-2014, 09:53 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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Default Off Center Holes in Pen Blanks?

Ed...Thanks for mentioning the fact that my garage floor 'may' not be level thus throwing my drill press off... Duh! Should have thought of that myself and I WILL certainly try your method of checking to see if my drill press is level to the turning.
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Old 04-30-2014, 06:32 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by Smitty37 View Post
I have a small level....I put it on the table and when it says the table is level it's square to the bit. I also have drilled holes on the drill press come out off center from where they went in....and the next blank and the blank before were perfect. So I think Ed's solution is right on most of the time it isn't always the answer.
The only way the method of checking is correct, is if the quill is plumb. Just checking the table means nothing.
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:19 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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I had issues with the Center Hole with the PSI Blank Pen Holder for Lathe.Had to make the Jaws equal on both side's.Then all corrected.The Jaw's were a Bit off Center

Last edited by fisher; 04-30-2014 at 07:22 PM.
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Old 04-30-2014, 09:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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If the table shows square to your chuck like Ed suggested with the coat hanger, I would take a look at your vise. You didn't specify if you bought the $30 toggle lever economy or the $50 centering vise. If you want to check the vise, get a transfer punch that is large enough for the vice to grip, while small enough to still fit your chuck - if you can do that. Chuck the punch, lower the spindle to clamp the punch in your vise, raise the vice slightly off the table and rotate the chuck to see if the clamping face of the vice is square with the table. That is how I center my vice to the chuck before I lock it down.
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:11 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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All really god stuff.
I found all this to also be the case. After the above got me more on track, I still had some lesser issues with the tube not drilling straight. This is what I did and now things are very good. Not perfect.

Two things happened that made it the worst problem for me. 1, the pen blank was not square in the holder on the drill table. I found I had to push down on the top of the blank and then close the clamp on the blank holing vice. Then feel that both sides were level on the pen blank and the top of the vice.
2, was I was pushing to hard on the blank with the bit. Or call it the drill press handle.
Very light pressure really light. When I was in a hurry, and when am I not? it cause the bit to skew of to one side. Side though also. I cut with a wood bank on the floor of the vice and drill all the way through my blanks. Many will say to drill short of the end and then cut the blank. This is probably a better way, but I lose very few blanks the way I do it. If the vice is to tight on the pen black. The black can tend to crack because of the pressure. So I always use tight but not over tight.
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:24 AM   #17 (permalink)
 
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I went the same route as Shastastan and couldn't be happier with the blank chuck arrangement. I feel it is the only way to go. You can get the chuck for not much more than the cost of a good blank vise on Amazon. Depending on the blank you start with there will always be a little bit of a tendency to go off center on the end. As for the wire method of squaring your table the concept is right but I prefer a dial indicator sweeping as large of a diameter as possible. The larger the diameter the more accurate you will be.
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Old 05-24-2014, 02:25 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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I've had a problem with the inlet or outlet of my drilled holes being too large. I've tried doing a "starter hole" with a small stubby bit in hopes that this small bit will remain very rigid and set a good starter hole for the final, larger bit. I avoid brad point bits and remove the bit often to keep it from clogging up and to avoid burning. I stop the lathe each time just before withdrawing the bit to avoid possible enlarging of the hole inlet as the bit "wobbles" just near the inlet. If I still get enlargement of the hole inlet or outlet, what could be the problem?
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Old 05-25-2014, 02:00 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Penburst View Post
I've had a problem with the inlet or outlet of my drilled holes being too large. I've tried doing a "starter hole" with a small stubby bit in hopes that this small bit will remain very rigid and set a good starter hole for the final, larger bit. I avoid brad point bits and remove the bit often to keep it from clogging up and to avoid burning. I stop the lathe each time just before withdrawing the bit to avoid possible enlarging of the hole inlet as the bit "wobbles" just near the inlet. If I still get enlargement of the hole inlet or outlet, what could be the problem?
I might really be off on this....but, I've noticed that the tubes seem to be looser in the blanks than in the past. I've been buying most of my kits from PSI. I really like that their tubes are already "roughed" up. I've tried different makes of drill bits and it doesn't seem to matter. I have to wonder if the tubes are being made just a micro bit smaller? I use the thick CA glue liberally and that seems to work okay.
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Old 05-26-2014, 03:59 AM   #20 (permalink)
 
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I have a psi pen drilling vise that i have been useing for years trouble is that every time you want to use your drill press for another project you have to set it up again so i recently bought a nova chuck with the pen drilling jaws to drill on my lathe It works great and no set up every time the only problem is that it will set you back about $ 200.00 for the complete set is it worth the extra cost you decide what your time and material is worth Happy Decisions LOL
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