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wcoyote

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Does anyone have any good ideas on trimming the barrels with the use of a Pen Mill? I have a pen mill ordered but I am anxious to get started. Does anyone have any tips on drilling the blanks without a drill press? I don't have the money right yet to get one. Any guidance would be much appreciated. I just joined and already I feel like I've been here forever. Keep up the good work.

Jason
 
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Originally posted by wcoyote
<br />Does anyone have any good ideas on trimming the barrels with the use of a Pen Mill? I have a pen mill ordered but I am anxious to get started. Does anyone have any tips on drilling the blanks without a drill press? I don't have the money right yet to get one. Any guidance would be much appreciated. I just joined and already I feel like I've been here forever. Keep up the good work.

Jason

- Blank Squaring Jig For Disk Sander: http://content.penturners.org/articles/2005/blanksquaring.pdf

- The alternative to a drill press is to use the lathe to drill. Unless you already have the equipment to do this, the drill press will be a cheaper alternative.
 

its_virgil

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Here is a link to a blank squaring jig for a disk sander but it could be adapted to other types of sanders. http://penmakersguild.com/articles/blanksquarejig.pdf I use a similar jig instead of a pen mill. Drill your blanks on the lathe, but that requires some type of chuck for holding the blank (but it can be used for turning bowls and such) and a jacob's chuck for the tail stock to hold the bit. Both of these would cost less than a drill press, or about the same and you would get lots of use from both. Drilling on the lathe can be more accurate than drilling on a drill press.
Good luck....your enthusiasm is a sign you've been bitten by the pen turning bug.

Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by wcoyote
<br />Does anyone have any good ideas on trimming the barrels with the use of a Pen Mill? I have a pen mill ordered but I am anxious to get started. Does anyone have any tips on drilling the blanks without a drill press? I don't have the money right yet to get one. Any guidance would be much appreciated. I just joined and already I feel like I've been here forever. Keep up the good work.

Jason
 

alphageek

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Drilling without a press... Well it can be done - we did one by hand the other day... Clamped the blank, then eyeballed the square.

We didn't do too bad.. and if you are doing a slimline from a 3/4" blank you'll have a little room for error. I wouldn't do this with a bigger one, but if your in a pinch to play with your lathe while waiting for a drill press, you can do this.

Good luck!
 

ed4copies

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When I started, I sanded the ends on my belt sander. Check often to see if you are touching brass, then when it touches all the way around, you are done!

Drill with a hand drill, hold with locking pliers. The more room you have, the better. I did it this way for a long time, making 7mm slimlines from 5/8" cocobolo blanks. Remember, cut it into halves first, you only have to be straight for 2 1/4 inches - you ruin a few, but it gets it done!!

Good LUCK. The longer you turn, the more toys you get and the easier it becomes!![:D][:D]
 

sparhawk

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I eyeball my blanks and drill them in my vise. LIke the other guys said it works on a slimline or small bore pen but i wouldnt try it on anything bigger. I just csrewed up a blank the other day that way. One end eas good and the other one was right against the edge. NO room for the nib. It was just a junk piece i was trying but still hated to lose a blank.
 

Fred

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Jason, depending on what lathe you have you migh want to inquire about a Jacobs chuck to match the morse tape of the lathe. With it you can do many things as if you were using a drill press.
 

jtate

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Okay, Jason, I been in your shoes so here's the cheapy, down and dirty method. Don't buy a drill press. Don't buy a Jacobs Chuck. Don't buy a disc sander. Buy a sheet of sandpaper and a hand-held paper hole punch.

I'm assuming you're starting off with a Slimline or some other kit that requires a 7MM hole. If not, then this tech nique may need some tweaking.

Hold your blank in the vise on your work bench or clamp it to the bench with C clamps if you don't have a vise. Drill with your electric hand drill. It you don't have one of those, go buy one.

Use big chunks of wood. They don't have to be nice, square blanks. Use whatever kind of wood you have handy - this is your learning curve. If you use nice pretty 3/4 inch squared blanks, you're likely to drill out the side of the blank. Heck, you may do that anyway. So use big chucnks. It gives you a chance to practice your turning skills. Learning to 'turn air' (getting a rough intop cylindrical shape) is important.

Use a hand saw to cut your blanks down to just a tiny bit longer than the tubes.

Sometimes I cut my blanks a whole lot longer than the tube and then (withe the tubes glued in) I turn it down to a reasonable diamter and use a parting tool to cut it down to the edge of the tube. But that's a Whole other matter.

Now, you don't have to have a disc sander and you don't have to make a jig. Buy sandpaper - I'd go with 100 grit. Measure the flat, vertical surface of your mandrell-holder, the round flat part from which the mandrel itself protrudes. Cut some little square pieces of your sandpaper that are a little bigger across than the diameter of the mandrell-holder. Cover the non-gritty side of the sandpaper squares with doublesided tape. Using a common household hole punch, punch a hole in the center of each little square. Hole punchers make a hole that is about a quarter inch in diameter which is the diamter of your mandrel!

Now, slide one little square onto the mandrell and up against the flat vertical surface. Press to make the double sided tape adhere. Slide one of your pen barrel sections onto the mandrell. (You've already glued in the tube and maybe rough turned it.) Hold the your fist around the piece and turn the lathe on - slow till you get used to this. The mandrell spins round and so does the sandpaper which is attached to it. Slide the pen piece to the spinning sandpaper and bounce it against the spinning sandpaper a coupld of time. Turn lathe off and inspect the end. Repeat till you just barely kiss the brass of the tube. ALWAYS turn the lathe off before you slide the pen part off so you're not tempted to try to slide the pen part back on the mandrell while it's turning (Don't Ask Me How I Know This - DAMHIKT).

This down and dirty technique works just fine. Some of my favorite pens were done this way. The whole point of a pen mill is to creater a surface at the end of your pen that's excatly a 90 degree angle from the tube inside. That's what you do with the sandpaper at the end of the mandrell because the mandrell's inside your tube.
 

Randy_

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Originally posted by jtate
<br />Hey, just squeezing that nickle till the buffalo ---- well, you know.

I work with a limited tool budget so I know "EXACTLY" what you mean.

A thought just occurred to me....how do you deal with blanks with tubes other than 7mm?? Thanks.
 

Malainse

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My first drill press was $12 at a garage sale(now use as a pen press)..... Next one was a floor model with damage at Menards for $30(still works great).

Shop around and pick up tools as you go.... Ahhh I should have stopped a long time ago....[;)]
 

jtate

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Originally posted by Randy_
<br />
Originally posted by jtate
<br />.



A thought just occurred to me....how do you deal with blanks with tubes other than 7mm?? Thanks.

Just turn a sleeve and put it over the mandrel. I turn these sleeves from Corian because I have some of that and it's pretty durable and doesn't bend or shrink. These are the same sleeves I use when I am using a pen mill.
 

Randy_

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Originally posted by jtate,,,,,Just turn a sleeve and put it over the mandrel. I turn these sleeves from Corian because I have some of that and it's pretty durable and doesn't bend or shrink. These are the same sleeves I use when I am using a pen mill.

My arbor measures about 0.7" dia. at the big end. If you are trying to square up big blanks, the outer part of the sandpaper will be unsupported and may not properly square the outer edge of the blank.
 

wcoyote

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Rockland, Maine, USA.
Thanks everybody for the great tips. I think I will take a visit to my friends shop and have him drill the cut blanks for me. So should I cut them in 2 pieces before I get him to drill them or leave them as 1 6" blank?

jason
 

jtate

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If I'm working with a large blank and I'm doing this type of squareing the end, I'mm put the blank on the mandrell and rough turn it before I square the ends. I'll get it a couple of millimaters bigger than the outer diamter of the pen part it's supposed to end up being. Then I'll put the the sandpaper on the mandrell and square it up. I don't ever make any pens that have an outside diater that exceeds 7/10's of an inch, I guess.
 
M

Mudder

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Originally posted by jtate
<br />If I'm working with a large blank and I'm doing this type of squareing the end, I'mm put the blank on the mandrell and rough turn it before I square the ends. I'll get it a couple of millimaters bigger than the outer diamter of the pen part it's supposed to end up being. Then I'll put the the sandpaper on the mandrell and square it up. I don't ever make any pens that have an outside diater that exceeds 7/10's of an inch, I guess.

What if you got a 1/4" fender washer from one of the home improvement centers? I would think with a little smidgen of double sided tape to stick the washer to the mandrel you could gain a lot more diameter.
 

Randy_

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Randy_

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Originally posted by Mudder
<br />What if you got a 1/4" fender washer from one of the home improvement centers? I would think with a little smidgen of double sided tape to stick the washer to the mandrel you could gain a lot more diameter.

I was thinking along those lines as well. Only problem is many of the fender washers I've seen are not real well "formed." The washers are stamped out of sheet steel and many of them have a little ridge on one side where the edge has "rolled over" from the stamping process. I don't know if that deformation would be enough to cause a problem or not; but I would be tempted to try to flatten out the washer buy sanding it with some sandpaper backed by a hard flat surface like a piece of plate glass, counter top remnant or the like.
 
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