No Mandrel! Picts added.

[leehljp]

I learned how to make a pen without a mandrel! Works great! NO bushing problems with this setup - well, at least not in the finishing process.

I had on hand a 3/4 by 6 inch aluminum rod, so I turned one end until it was 1/2 inch diameter by 3/4 in length - so that it would fit in my 1/2 in 2 MT drill chuck.

Then I put the drill chuck into the head stock, inserted the rod into the drill chuck and turned a taper on the other end.

With this setup I have two points to mount the blank: the live center on the tail stock and the dead center on the head stock (in the drill chuck).

My real purpose for this was for finishing, not the basic turning. I have had trouble with finishes on oily wood (ebony) in particular. I have boiled it, wiped it with acetone, nuked it in the mocrowave. But CA will often make a minute separation from the ebony blank at the end, and it usually occurs when I separate the blank from the bushing. I have tried my own non stick washers but that does the same. I have some delrin bushings and the glue doesn't really stick too much, but when I pull the blank loose - a small separation somewhere on one end or the other. ARRGH

Once I did have a great finish and upon using the press ever so lightly to assemble the pen, a little light spot came up on the finished blank as it tightened just a smidgen too much.

BUT with the "no mandrel" set up, I have done three ebonys without a problem!

 

[JimGo]

Hank,
You've been here long enough to know the rule - no pics, it didn't happen!!!

 

[doeringr]

Yeah! Pics would be great! This sounds like a possible solution to some of my probs as well!

 

[Firefyter-emt]

Well, I apply a little wax on my live center and the dead center in the headstock. I then apply the CA without bushings and held between centers with the tube only. (HELD LIGHTLY) The worst case is that you need to use the pen mill to just "clean up" the edges.

BTW, this is basicly the same thing that Hank is doing, but a live center is a better thing to have over using the drill chuck. You can use the dead center to turn between centers and have a much higher degree of perfection than with the drill chuck. (for tunning the pen)

I do most all my pens this way now and have found it a lot easier and the pens come out much better.

 

[mdburn_em]

Originally posted by Firefyter-emt
<br />

BTW, this is basicly the same thing that Hank is doing, but a live center is a better thing to have over using the drill chuck. You can use the dead center to turn between centers and have a much higher degree of perfection than with the drill chuck. (for tunning the pen)

I think you may have misread his post. He has a drill chuck in the headstock and a live center in the tailstock.

You couldn't do much with two live centers.

Although, right now, I would be happy to try, just so I could be close to my lathe.[:I]

 

[leehljp]

Pictures added. It DID happen!

On the end of this cocobolo blank on the left end, you can barely see where the CA separated from the blank, creating a light spot. I have problems like that often. The Dead center drive prevents that.

[]

 

[JimGo]

Huh, neat idea Hank!

 

[Rifleman1776]

Looks good. But a store bought dead center works fine also. About $5.00, a good deal for us non-machinist types.

 

[leehljp]

Originally posted by Rifleman1776
<br />Looks good. But a store bought dead center works fine also. About $5.00, a good deal for us non-machinist types.

If I were back there now, I would have bought one. I didn't think about it in May when I was there visiting family.

I could order one for $5.00 and pay $10+ for postage. []

For anyone else that is a great deal. I had read this idea before but it was Frank that triggered my urge to do it. Thanks Frank!

 

[carelg]

quote:
Originally posted by Rifleman1776

Looks good. But a store bought dead center works fine also. About $5.00, a good deal for us non-machinist types.




If I were back there now, I would have bought one. I didn't think about it in May when I was there visiting family.

I could order one for $5.00 and pay $10+ for postage.

For anyone else that is a great deal. I had read this idea before but it was Frank that triggered my urge to do it.

I agree with Hank. If I was in the states, I would also buy one at a store, but over here (South Africa) you must either buy it at a hefty price or do it your self.

Thanks Hank for the idea![]

 

[PatrickTaylor]

Great idea! Thanks for sharing. I glued the bushing center ring on the tenon of a european cap the other night when doing my CA finish. [] I had to do a bit of repair to save the pen after getting it off. This method looks good!

 

[Firefyter-emt]

FYI.. Mark, I kinda mis-typed there, In the start I did say live center, but read down and I explained it with a dead center and live center. No foul, mostly my fault there..

But yes, this is the way I apply CA myself because it works so much better!! []

One other thing you could try would be to turn a taper to match your headstock from some hard wood and then insert it into the headstock and then make a taper on the other end. Wax would still keep the pen from sticking and you would not need a drill chuck.

The dead center is a great way to hold the blanks between bushings for turning too. I find it much quicker to pull the blank off the lathe in a second to measure it with calipers while held in hand.

 

[jack barnes]

where would be a good place to order a dead center from ?

jack

 

[jeff]

I've bought live and dead centers from this place:
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1890

Their shipping is kind of high, though... that $5 item will cost you $15 delivered.

 

[Firefyter-emt]

Yea, I will second them, great place to buy stuff from!

Here is a photo of a cigar pen blank held between centers. Like Hank, for a CA finish remove the bushings and hold it by the tubes. Just make sure you are just lightly holding it. If you crank down too hard you can flare the tube and split the wood.

 

[johnnycnc]

Jack,I've had good results turning between centers
with the dead and live centers from Grizzly.
If you're willing to shorten the tail-end length
to fit a Jet mini,this dead center http://www.grizzly.com/products/h7967has a carbide tip!I have seen NO wear on mine.[]It may last a "lifetime".
The Grizzly shipping didn't bite me quite as bad as LMS,either.
(And if you're in the market for a good live center,
grab this one http://www.grizzly.com/products/g5686from
Grizzly.In my usage,it is a much better unit than the one from
Little Machine-shop.Very smooth bearings,virtually no run-out,and
better/harder steel (much less wear for hours used).)

Originally posted by jack barnes
<br />where would be a good place to order a dead center from ?

jack

 

[Mudder]

Hank has provided a tutorial that has been converted to PDF and sent to Jeff to be posted when he gets a chance. Meanwhile, If you want a copy, here is a link to it.

http://www.scottspens.com/kits/Making_and_using_a_Dead_Center.pdf

Thank you Hank for your time and efforts.

 

[jack barnes]

Thanks Jeff and John I think I'll order from the littlemachineshop.

Jack