Next Step - Seeking Advice On Higher End Kits

[stoneman]

Hi all. I've learned a great deal from IAP members in the last year and a half and think I am ready to try a higher end kit. I am looking for advice regarding what kit and perhaps whether a rollerball or fountain pen might be a better choice. Here are my initial thoughts.

1. I plan to use a piece of pretty solid moose antler. The piece was broken from an antler, presumably in battle during the mating season, hence has a sort of mystique attached to it and should be relatively uncommon.

2. I'm looking for a fairly classy pen kit to do it justice, and also one with good asthetics relating to the match with antler (this particular antler piece should be fairly ivory-like as it is broken from a solid looking broken tine).

3. I am also looking for a very good quality pen with smooth threads and good wear characteristics.

4. Finally, I have yet to make a fountain pen, but it seems they are the higher appeal style. In general, are they fairly reliable? And do they require a lot of cleaning/care to use on a regular basis?

5. I am open to all comments/suggestions and have been looking at CSUSA Statesman, Emperor & Imperial, PSI Majestic & Noveau Septre, and Berea Cambridge pens.

Okay experts - lay it on me

 

[ed4copies]

I am open to all comments/suggestions and have been looking at CSUSA Statesman, Emperor & Imperial, PSI Majestic & Noveau Septre, and Berea Cambridge pens.

You got apples, oranges, grapefruit and watermelons.

Is it for YOU or to sell?
If for you and you have no fountain pen experience - consider a full-size gent, before you start paying these prices for a pen you don't like.

 

[GouletPens]

CSUSA Jr. Statesman 2 is a good choice too....it's not HUGE like many of the others, but is very attractive and has been popular with my customers. It's also a little less expensive than some of the others.

 

[CaptG]

For antler I would go Blk. TI Jr. Statesman. IMHO

 

[Rudy Vey]

Statesman Jr here as well - very elegant in both plating options and perfect size. The other pens, like the full sized Statesman, Emperor et al do not sell very good - if at all - for me.

 

[Gary Max]

I am out of Moose antler right now or I would turn one so you could see a pic:biggrin:

 

[stoneman]

I am out of Moose antler right now or I would turn one so you could see a pic:biggrin:

Gary,

Just send me the kit(s) you had in mind. I'll try out everything you supply and send you a picture of the best outcome.:wink:

P.S. Riley says there is only about four feet of snow between him and some more antlers.:biggrin:

 

[el_d]

I would turn it and go from there. The Jr gent, Jr statesman and the Jr emporor(I believe) use the same size tubes. I have seen some different colors come out in antlers, purples(black Ti) yellows,creams(Gold Ti). IMHO its kinda hard to tell what you have or what will match better with antler till its turned down......

 

[jskeen]

Esthetically, white antler would probably be a good match for any of the kits you mentioned. If you end up hitting marrow it will usually turn off dark in the finished pen, so I might tend to lean toward a black ti and platinum version rather than a gold and platinum, but that's just me.

My personal favorite would be the Statesman, partially on the basis of versatility, because you can use the same drill bits, bushings, and tubes for both the Gent and Statesman. I also prefer it just on appearance, as it is less angular and squared off than the others you mention. YMMV

As for Rollerball vs Fountain, my advise would be to buy the kit in a rollerball version, and then call Lou or Anthony and get a fountain pen section, feed and nib assembly so that you can swap back and forth. Two pens for not much more than the price of one. I keep my favorite FP section and just swap it from pen to pen, each new one gets played with a little, and goes in the sale box when I get tired of it.

 

[stoneman]

As for Rollerball vs Fountain, my advise would be to buy the kit in a rollerball version, and then call Lou or Anthony and get a fountain pen section, feed and nib assembly so that you can swap back and forth. Two pens for not much more than the price of one.

James,
Help me out here. Do I understand that the nib section of a rollerball can be swapped with the nib of a fountain merely by unscrewing and replacing the section (as you would to replace a refill in a rollerball)? Or does it require that you disassemble and reassemble both ends of the lower section of the pen? It is not a really big difference, but if it only requires replacing the threaded section, that's a snap.

Also, once you understand the basics involved, are fountain pens relatively easy to maintain short (and long) term?

 

[texasfootball21]

James,
Help me out here. Do I understand that the nib section of a rollerball can be swapped with the nib of a fountain merely by unscrewing and replacing the section (as you would to replace a refill in a rollerball)? Or does it require that you disassemble and reassemble both ends of the lower section of the pen? It is not a really big difference, but if it only requires replacing the threaded section, that's a snap.

Also, once you understand the basics involved, are fountain pens relatively easy to maintain short (and long) term?

Yes, it is as easy as unscrewing the rollerball section from the coupler and screwing on a fountain pen section. Very easy to do.

I write with a fountain pen on a daily basis. In my experience, if you do not abuse it, it will last quite a long time. Many flush their nibs with a cleaning solution. I do not know much about cleaning to I will let others jump in. For me, I occasionally take the nib apart and wipe down all the parts.

If it were me, and I was going from basic kits like slimlines, I would do a few Jr. Gents and get some experience with slightly bigger kits, but I do not know if you have already turned Jr. Gent like kits or if you are just doing slims.

Good luck.

 

[stoneman]

Yes, it is as easy as unscrewing the rollerball section from the coupler and screwing on a fountain pen section. Very easy to do.

If it were me, and I was going from basic kits like slimlines, I would do a few Jr. Gents and get some experience with slightly bigger kits, but I do not know if you have already turned Jr. Gent like kits or if you are just doing slims.

Good luck.

Joseph,

Thanks for clarifying. Seems like a great advantage. I have actually turned slimlines, purse pens, necklace pens, Sierras, cigars, Barons & Sedonas as well as making my own cartridge/bullet pens (all made possible with many with tips from IAP folks). Actually, now I'm pondering about getting a fountain pen nib to try on one of my Barons as well if it is as easy as swapping at the threads.

I appreciate the advice.

 

[jskeen]

Yes Steve, it is really that simple. just unscrew the six sided nib section of a baron and remove the refill, the fountain pen section, containing the nib (metal part you write with) and the feed (the grooved plastic part under it), and the outer housing will thread into the same fittings, and the ink cartridge sits back in the pen body where the roller ball refill was. Most ink cartridges and converters are a lot shorter than a roller ball refill, so there is no need to worry about that spring in the butt cap that holds the rollerball refill tight. The replacement fp sections that CSUSA used to sell are complete, ready to add an ink cartridge, screw in and start writing with. They have a black epoxy coated housing with a gold trim ring at the end. The ones that Bill at AS sells as "replacement nibs" actually consist of a nib, feed and section, but do not come with the plated housing so they can only be used with an existing fp kit. You will want to find a complete fp section, and csusa doesn't carry them anymore. I believe both Lou and Anthony have complete sections available.

The fountain pen sections that come with the jr and full size kits from CSUSA and the baron and sedona from berea (and their resellers) have fountain pen section housings that match the plating of the kits. Other kits like the el grande, churchill ect have black housings, some with bands that match the kit plating.

I have verified that the sections of the jr series pens from csusa and the baron/sedona are all interchangeable. A jr sized section will work on any of them. I don't know about the interchangeability of the sections (and components therein) from the full size csusa kits, and the el grande/churchill/el toro size kits, but would really like to if somebody else could post the info.

If you can't find a FP section for your baron anywhere else, PM me and we can work out a trade, I have a bunch of the different jr size on hand.

 

[bitshird]

Statesman Jr - very elegant in Black TI and perfect size and seller either posting or smooth, I like the postable cap.

 

[ed4copies]

I have verified that the sections of the jr series pens from csusa and the baron/sedona are all interchangeable. A jr sized section will work on any of them. I don't know about the interchangeability of the sections (and components therein) from the full size csusa kits, and the el grande/churchill/el toro size kits, but would really like to if somebody else could post the info

James,

I tried this some years ago and my recollection was the threads, although they "fit" (mostly), they were NOT the SAME. I was afraid that they would vibrate loose.

It is possible they have changed. Or, you may want to look at it again.


The ElGrande and churchill do NOT fit the Full size CSUSA kits.
FWIW

 

[stoneman]

Thanks to all for the info & tips. I believe I will contact Lou to see if he can supply "screw-ready" components to try on one of my Barons or Sedonas to start out with. Also, I am finding myself in agreement with some of the Statesman advocates and will probably start there next. Particularly for antler, the Statesman seems to project a solid, quality look (at least from afar) without being too glittery.

Most of the kits I'm familiar with (either by experience or just visuals on IAP or in catalogues) go in groups from Jimmy Stewart in "It's a Wonderful Life" (plain and functional) to Humphry Bogart in "Casa Blanca" (down to earth but well-dressed) and then skip way up to Michael Douglas in "Wall Street" (dressed to the nines and way too cocky). Someday maybe I'll run into something like what I have in mind like George Clooney in "Ocean's Eleven" (a touch of class with self-confidence but without all the super flash).

Of course, after all that movie metaphor I realized that with my pen turning deficiencies, I may still end up with George Clooney (except it will be from "Oh Brother Where Art Thou?") :biggrin:

 

[Gary Max]

Hey Steve if you want to convert a Baron into a fountain pen-----send me your address and I will drop it in the mail------No Charge.
I know I have your address around here somewhere but all I find is Riley's pics---

 

[Munsterlander]

I would turn it and go from there. The Jr gent, Jr statesman and the Jr emporor(I believe) use the same size tubes. I have seen some different colors come out in antlers, purples(black Ti) yellows,creams(Gold Ti). IMHO its kinda hard to tell what you have or what will match better with antler till its turned down......

Just fyi, the Jr Emperor uses the same diameter tubes, but one of them (I think it's the cap tube) is slightly longer (~1/16" or 1/8") than for the other kits (just made one earlier this week - nice kit!).

 

[stoneman]

Hey Steve if you want to convert a Baron into a fountain pen-----send me your address and I will drop it in the mail------No Charge.
I know I have your address around here somewhere but all I find is Riley's pics---

Gary,

PM sent - thanks

 

[jskeen]

Ed;

All my experiences were with the current barons and the new Jr. Gent 2. With that limitiation, it has been my experience that the sections are completely interchangeable, and the threads between coupler and section felt identical. I have used berea FP sections in Dayacom kits and visa versa, as well as the aftermarket sections in both and have never had a problem with the fit. I have noticed that the color of the TI gold is noticably different however. Perhaps the threads were one of the things changed when they updated the Dayacom kits?