Next Step

[nytefaii]

OK, so I have been turning infrequently for a year now. Have made a total of about 20 pens. Started with slimline and moved up to cigars.

Just made a group of 9 cigar pens for Christmas gifts for family this month.

I would like to move up to a better kit, maybe the Jr. line of kits, before I start doing smaller bowls and pendants and things.

I have ordered from vendors on this site only, such as EB, BTW, Berea, Wooden Whimsies and others.

I guess my questions is, what kit should I do next, if not a Jr. series, and where do I order from?

I also got a benchtop bandsaw for Christmas this year, so wouldnt mind playing with segmenting, but there is no fence, and I can't make a straight cut.

Keep in mind, I only hit the shop about 1 or 2 days a month due to a heavy work schedule, but when I do get some free time, I try to at least start and finish a pen to feel like I accomplished something.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[nytefaii]

Also to add to this, there isn't a huge budget to go along with this, as it is strictly a hobby, and I have not sold any pens.

So i don't have excess blanks or kits just laying around. I generally place a small order at a time to start a new project.

 

[BRobbins629]

If just a hobby and you don't want to spend much, decide on a kit you might like to make and then just buy a bunch of tubes. This way you can experiment with segments or be creative on other ways. When I first started making pens, I would go through at least 5 or 10 sets of tubes for every pen I assembled. I have a whole box full of things that didn't warrant assembly but each one taught me something. When you do get one that looks especially good, you can put it in a kit. There are some kits that take the same tubes so you may even have some options. Also if you ever need a present and have some finished tubes you can put it together in a few minutes without a big inventory. As you get more accomplished, you can venture into kitless versions where the material cost really goes down and the pen values go up.

 

[Dan26]

Hey, Chris. I'm in the same boat as you: About 10 months into pens, made about 50 or so. I have done some other, cheap kits, but really like the Sierras. The are rather inexpensive but look a little classier than some in it's class, and they are very easy to turn.

I have done some segmenting. I started on the table saw but that seemed to dangerous (but I still have all my fingers). I made a fence and miter out of plywood for my band saw and it seems to work pretty good. Some folks have made slide for their saw and that seems like a great idea too.

That's my 2¢ worth.

 

[TellicoTurning]

I don't know if you newbie's will remember him, but we had a guy on here call Ron Mc that did his segment pen blanks on his chop saw... I saw a demo he did in Atlanta.. I've tried once or twice to do a segmented in his technique... just worried me about my fingers.... he used hold down, stops and all the safety features, but I'm still leary of the chop saw... I'll probably learn to do segments on the band saw... think I'll have more control and retain my fingers.

 

[ed4copies]

If you design and build a table saw sled, you can make VERY tiny cuts, safely. Assuming you have a table saw!!!

 

[rjwolfe3]

If you design and build a table saw sled, you can make VERY tiny cuts, safely. Assuming you have a table saw!!!

Assuming you have a quality table saw, you mean! I can't cut a straight line on my POS.

 

[ed4copies]

Assuming you have a quality table saw, you mean! I can't cut a straight line on my POS.

I had one real cheapy, Rob. With a little work, even it could make straight cuts in small pieces. No, I could NOT cut a 4 foot straight line, but then that usually started knocking the saw over (it weighed maybe twenty pounds).

Put some sand bags over the crossbeams between the legs and adjust the "play" out of the blade (may have to add stabilizers), you're good to go.

 

[Lenny]

As far as what kits to try may I suggest ....
A Jr.Gent II ... Ed has them at a resonable price and some cool blanks as well.
Check out PSI for there special offers (kit + accessories), a good way to get started with new kits. I liked the Olympian Elite2 myself.

 

[nytefaii]

Thanks all for the responses. I'll check out a few vendors from here and see what they have for the Jr. Series.

I'm assuming they are all basically the same, just different cosmetics from kit to kit? Like the Jr Gent II vs the Jr Retro?

To avoid the plastic threads, I have to get an upgraded plating, corrects? Are they plastic threads OK?

Thanks again

 

[ldl1017]

Just curious what a kitless pen is (BRobbins629)? Do you just aquire all the individual components and then cobble a pen together form the mix of stuff?
Lou

 

[cbatzi01]

Regarding threads, I would recommend staying away from metal/metal threads, like the berea rollerball. They don't stay closed very well. You can put an o-ring on the barrel, but I don't like the look of that.

The Jr. Gent II's have metal threads on the barrel hardware and a nylon insert for the cap, on the Ti platings. Not 100% perfect but much better, for a two part pen kit.

I don't like to write with the Sierra's, but they are nice in that you can usually get 2 pens out of 1 blank, which helps when you are watching your costs.

Exotic Blanks have the Jr. Gent kits at good prices. They are my favorite people to buy from.

Good luck!
Chris

 

[Rmartin]

First of all, I don't believe there is any such thing as a cheap kit, only cheap platings.

If you're not selling your pens, or even if you are, stick with Slimline with a top quality plating, at least for a while. The slimline can be modified in countless ways.

The band saw is a great tool for segmenting. Take a scrap piece of wood about an inch or two wide and as long as your bandsaw table top. Draw a pencil line down the center. Cut free hand a long that line half way then turn the saw off with the piece in place. Clamp it down. This will give you your drift angle. Mark a line on the saw top. A rip fence set to that line will give you a nice clean straight cut without binding the saw blade.