Newbie question regarding blank cutting

[Greg O'Sherwood]

All,
I searched for this question, but didn't find it, so here goes;

When making a slimline, or any other pen that will have a ring between two cuts of the blank, do you use a very thin kerf saw or try to make the kerf the same width as the ring you will be using in order to have a natural-seeming continuation of the grain? Or do you not really worry about it at all?

I've seen pics here that show it either way, so maybe I'm overthinking this, but I've seen a couple that appear the turner was conscious of the continuing pattern and took care to cut out a kerf (obviously by more than one cut in some cases) equal to the width of the center ring.

Your opinion?

Greg

 

[tim self]

I'm kinda new to this also but will try to guide. I try to cut as thin as possible. Only because, the pen can be assembled without the band, (slimline). I just sold one from cedar that had a knot in the center. I left the band out for visual effect but still supplied it to the customer.

 

[monkeynutz]

Typically, your brain doesn't fill in the space that will be occupied by the center band. It kind of skips from the end of one half blank to the beginning of the next, so you usually don't have to lop out a chunk to compensate. The only exception I can think of is if you do a laminated blank with angular lams, and you want to give the lams the appearance of going through the center band at an angle. In that case, you would want to line the joints up by sizing off the center band. One other alternative you might consider is to use either a very thin center band, or none at all. This adds uniqueness.

 

[Greg O'Sherwood]

Typically, your brain doesn't fill in the space... <snip>

MonkeyNutz, you can say that again...and you aren't the first to notice that fact about me!:rotfl:

Okay, then I want to generally use a thin kerf blade, or maybe a Japanese pull saw? Or just a thin kerf on the TS?

thanks,

Gregory of RattlingAroundUpThere Forest

 

[Chasper]

I use a band saw to cut the blanks, standard kerf. Then I insert tubes from the just cut location toward the ends of the blank, always pushing the tube a little past flush with the cut surface so it can be milled square. After milling, the band will fill the space formerly taken up by the wood that has been cut and milled away.

If there is a distinct grain (and there usually is) I match up the assembly so that it appears that the grain looks uninterrupted, as if it goes under the band and continues on the other side.

 

[nava1uni]

Cutting the blanks really isn't the issue. If you drill both blanks from the center cut side they tend to have better alignment. Then insert the tubes for gluing from the center leaving only a little for milling. When assembling line up your grain or pattern and the brain does not detect the break of the band. If you use a Japanese sand saw your cut will not be as even as if done on a saw.