Newbie question about HARD wood

[kenbu]

Years ago we saved a small trunk cross-section when the old apple tree from my parents' back yard had to be cut down. For Christmas I thought it would be nice to turn something from this wood as a keepsake for each of my family members. Unfortunately, the wood is very dry and extremely hard. I can't seem to turn anything without having to apply A LOT of pressure and eventually having the wood shatter and chunks fly off. I have sharp tools -- even carbide -- but no luck.

I've read about various solutions for stabilizing soft wood. Any suggestions for how to soften or re-hydrate hard/dry wood?



Ken

 

[shortz1lla]

My guess is that there is a technique issue at hand. I've turned some of the hardest woods on the planet, and while some require great care, the vast majority turn better than softer woods. You certainly don't want to add moisture as you would be fighting with wood movement after finishing, resulting in issues with the final product. On woods that like to blow apart, I take lighter cuts and maintain the sharpest edges I can.

 

[1080Wayne]

Tools sharp as in able to shave the hair off the back of your hand sharp ? Apple should turn easily with nice shavings if you are going with the grain . If you are going cross cut sharpness and the light cuts mentioned above are even more important .

 

[StephenM]

You could try soaking them for a while in BLO and see if that does anything for it. Are you able to even round the blanks? What are you using: skew, gouge...?

 

[robutacion]

Hi there,

Some pics would help a lot, as I wonder what is causing the problem.

Pear wood when left exposed for some time, it does dry its outside surfaces to a quite hard shell however, I use Pear wood from a tree planted in 1890 and its quite workable, particularly if you use carbide tipped tools to get through that first dry/hard layer.

There a few ways to hydrate that wood, as most work well by soaking it and water for a week or two, there is a big difference between turning green wood and dry that has been water soaked. You start turning as soon as you get if off the water, get your goggles and snorkel as you are going to get wet, turn the lathe speed as fast it it allows (balance) and get into it.

I guarantee that, by the time you finish shaping the piece, most of the water will be out...! The sanding will heat the hood and will complete the drying process however, I like to stop after I finish shaping and let it dry overnight off-course, I'm talking about average temps for Australia, that makes a big difference...!

Soaking the wood in Methylated Spirits, is also a good alternative but, a much more expensive one...!

I also believe that, you also be experiencing, wrong techniques when using your cutting tools, if they are sharp as you say, it shouldn't be that hard so, i suggest you replace that piece of Pear with a piece of pine or other soft wood you may have available, and take for a spin, a little practice, I would say...!

Good luck...!

Cheers
George