Newbie question...

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joek30296

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Sep 19, 2011
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99
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Newnan, GA
I'm still brand new at pen turning but loving it! Have turned about a dozen slimlines so far. Am using CA/BLO finish, lightly sanding with 400 grit after every 3 or 4 coats and putting on about 10 coats total. I rub the final coat with fine auto polishing (white) compound and then use PlastiX to really bring out the shine.

All that to ask my question: How do I get rid of the very fine lines of the CA. BTW, I use Bounty paper towel to apply the medium CA. Sanding doesn't seem to do it and I really can't see them until I catch the light just right.

Thanks in advance as any help/ suggestions would be appreciated.

Joe
 
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Bobalu

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Sep 17, 2009
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Reading what I just posted, I realize my reply isn't very clear......sorry.

Each time you sand with the blank spinning, you create rotary sanding marks. To get rid of them, you must stop your lathe and sand across the blank. Use the hand wheel on your headstock to advance the blank a little at a time, until you've cross sanded the entire blank. Repeat if you still see any rotary marks.

You also said you sand only to 400 grit before doing your polishing. On my final sanding 400 grit is usually where I start, then 600 grit, and then go through the various grits in the Micro Mesh sand papers up to 12,000 grit. Then I do my polishing.
 
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Bobalu

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I just noticed you are from Newnan. If you are not aware of it, the Georgia Chapter of IAP has its next meeting on Saturday December 17th, beginning at 10 AM at the Woodcraft store in Marietta. Good place to learn more about the hobby.
 

joek30296

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Sep 19, 2011
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Newnan, GA
Bob...thanks for the info about the meeting at the Woodcraft store. I'll keep that in mind. Looks like I have to pick up some MM as it appears that I'm not sanding fine enough before applying the CA. Guess I also need to sand more with the grain than I'm doing. Am I hearing you correctly?

Joe
 

SCR0LL3R

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May 19, 2011
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NS, Canada
I often start my sanding with 220 grit on a sanding block so that I can get out any small ridges left from turning. The block helps me to even everything out. Then I go to 400 and 600 grit or so before CA (with the grain when necessary/possible). Sometimes up to 1000+ grit on burls because you can't really sand with the grain on a burl so sanding scratches are more visible.

I don't sand at all between coats of CA... just put on all your coats, then sand your ends square and down to the brass, (and I usually seal the ends with a tiny amount of thin CA), then sand with 400 grit paper (until you see no more shiny spots) before starting with Micromesh ( you can go to 600 if you like, I personally don't find it makes a big difference). Be sure to sand enough especially with the first few steps of Micromesh. I often skip the last one or two steps of Micromesh since the polish I use seems to have no problem taking over after the purple pad.

I polish with HUT ultra gloss which gets rid of most of the finest scratches but I do buff with ultra-fine acrylic buffing compound on a string buffing wheel to get those tiniest scratches out.

Sometimes the scratches you find after polishing are actually fairly deep and you have to go back to a fairly coarse Micromesh and work your way back up to get them out. It took me awhile to figure out how to do it right (almost) all the time.
 

Bobalu

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Bob...thanks for the info about the meeting at the Woodcraft store. I'll keep that in mind. Looks like I have to pick up some MM as it appears that I'm not sanding fine enough before applying the CA. Guess I also need to sand more with the grain than I'm doing. Am I hearing you correctly?

Joe

I would sand to at least 600 grit before going with the CA. Some people go much further, and it doesn't hurt to do so, but I generally find sanding to 600 grit sufficient.

I only use the MM on the final sanding. I continue to cross sand even with the MM. I usually stop cross sanding after the 2400 grit, but other people cross sand all the way through 12,000 grit. Again, it doesn't hurt to do so, but I haven't seen the need.

I hope this helps clarify things. Just keep in mind that each of us have our own methods and procedures. There's no single right way to do anything when it comes to finishing. You just keep experimenting and trying different methods until you find what works best for you. Then once you think you have it all figured out, something changes and you find yourself back at square one. :wink:
 

ed4copies

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Mar 25, 2005
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Racine, WI, USA.
When you sand at 400, you should see a uniform white "dust" on the blank. If you see nice shiny spots, keep sanding, the nice shiny spots are the low spots that will be scratches when you are finished. 400 is critical, after that, if it is done right, everything else will "fall into place"".
 
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