New Turner

[cwasil]

I finally went out and bought a bunch of tools and equipment for turning pens after lurking around here for around a month. I got a Jet 1014vs and their starter kit from Hut and a starter kit from PSI just to see who I'd want to deal with in the future. Honestly, I think I'll go with Hut after waiting nearly 10 days to get my stuff from PSI vs. 3 days for Hut. Anyway, I finally got most everything yesterday and even though I didn't have everything I needed according to this board, I started anyhow. Now for the questions...why is it important to drill so straight through a half blank? My pen mill made the perpendicular cut like I'd hoped it would. Matter of fact, one of few blanks I drilled that was centered up at the beginning and end actually split on me on the lathe as I tried to turn it. What typically causes these splits...dumb luck, drilling to fast, etc.? Turning for the first time ever (I've never ran a lathe in my life) was a trip. I had no idea how to use the tools but a little common sense (don't hold the sharp end) and a little trial and error and I managed to turn the wood down relatively fast filling in the voids and tear outs with the little slurry mixture of CA and dust that I read here. It actually looked kind of nice. I did learn to turn down a little closer than .08 oversized. A person could sit there for quite awhile trying to sand that down. Both kits only got me sandpaper up to 600 grit (my MM is on the way) which leads me to my next question. I used the CA-BLO finishing method and although the final pen is shiny I would certainly say it's not like glass. Is the low grit sandpaper be the cause of this or because I suck at it? Why do you put on a lacquer after the CA-BLO process? What do you typically put over it? To me, it seems like putting a bulletproof vest over a tank. Anyway, my end product, after assembly, is a nice, usable honey locust pen. I'll try to post a picture tomorrow. After building my first pen, along with a keychain because I blew out one of the blanks, I must say that building a nice pen isn't particularily hard but to build the special ones that you guys do that are multimaterial with a glass finish will take awhile. Thanks to all of you for helping a beginning woodworker get a start. Summarizing my questions:

1.Why is it so important to have all these specialize jigs and fixtures just to drill a straight hole through the half blank when a pen mill will solve problem?

2.What typically causes the splits in the blanks as your turning them (drilling to fast, straightness of hole, etc.)?

3.Is the 600 grit sandpaper much to low to get the mirror finish you all are striving for?

4.Why is a lacquer or wax put on after the CA-BLO process?

5.What finish do you put over the CA-BLO?

Thanks again to everyone

Chad

 

[timdaleiden]

Welcome to the group Chad.


1.Why is it so important to have all these specialize jigs and fixtures just to drill a straight hole through the half blank when a pen mill will solve problem?

In most cases, it really doesn't have to go straight through dead center. When doing certain segmented pens, it does become an issue.

2.What typically causes the splits in the blanks as your turning them (drilling to fast, straightness of hole, etc.)?


You may be using your tools too aggressively. A light touch with sharp tools (at the proper angle) works best. Uneven glue coverage inside the blanks can also cause this.


3.Is the 600 grit sandpaper much to low to get the mirror finish you all are striving for?

Not if you buff or polish afterwords...the MM will do the same thing.

4.Why is a lacquer or wax put on after the CA-BLO process?

That should not be needed. A buffed or polished BLO-CA finish won't need anything else on top of it.


5.What finish do you put over the CA-BLO?

Nothing...but you can put Ren Wax over the whole pen once assembled to help protect the hardware if it is gold plated.

Thanks again to everyone

Chad

 

[William Young]

Chad;
Welcome to the wonderfull world of turning.
I agree with Tim about not needing anything over a CA or laquer finish. I dont finish with CA for reasons previously discussed although I understand it is a great finish.
I use laquer and it too requires no top coat . It dries glass clear and putting wax over it can actually take away a little of the shine if that is so desired. Also, I think the laquer cures better if not waxed because I have a feeling the wax seals some of the air to the surface of the finish and may prevent it from curing as soon as it normally would. I may be all wet on that theory. Maybe it will still cure from the bottom up. It's just a suggestion at this time until I have had more time to check both ways.
I like the idea that Tim pointed out about wax protecting the gold plating though . I will probably practice that now even if it does forfeit a little bit of shine but I will wait about a week (if I still have the pen) until I am sure the curing process is fully accomplished.
Of course with a CA finish I think the curing process is finished when it comes off the lathe. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong about that.

You are amoungst a bunch of very helpfull people here. They sure have helped me along many, many times.
W.Y.

 

[William Young]

Drew.
What product are you using for a sanding sealer befor the EEE ?
W.Y.

 

[timdaleiden]

I like the idea that Tim pointed out about wax protecting the gold plating though . I will probably practice that now even if it does forfeit a little bit of shine

Renaissance Wax needs to be buffed after it is applied. When I use it, I buff it with a cheap buffing wheel on my drill press. That seems to melt it, and it becomes transparent.

 

[Guest]

If you start buying acrylic blanks,or any blank that is less than 5/8 square you may rum out of blank before you run out of "hole"
Some off the larger diameter kits will pose a problem also.
Another thing.
If you cut a blank on a bias the bit will want to follow the grain.
Again this will mean you run out of wood before you run out of hole.
When it happens you will then learn about OOPS! rings and their use will be self explanatory.

 

[wdcav1952]

William Young,
When I do a lacquer finish using Deft with the dip technique (I leave a bushing on the bottom to prevent the dreaded ring) I find that if I try to buff it that the buffing scuffs up the finish. I tried micro mesh with a very light touch and felt it dragging on the lacquer. This was after drying for more than 24 hours. What am I doing wrong, or how do you touch up a lacquer finish for maximum results?

Thanks,

William ("The Dentist")

 

[Scott]

Originally posted by cwasil
<br />1.Why is it so important to have all these specialize jigs and fixtures just to drill a straight hole through the half blank when a pen mill will solve problem?

2.What typically causes the splits in the blanks as your turning them (drilling to fast, straightness of hole, etc.)?

3.Is the 600 grit sandpaper much to low to get the mirror finish you all are striving for?

4.Why is a lacquer or wax put on after the CA-BLO process?

5.What finish do you put over the CA-BLO?

Thanks again to everyone

Chad

Hi Chad!

Welcome to the group! It's already fun, isn't it?

1. Well, the hole should be straight through the blank so the brass tube doesn't have to bend to get through! I know this isn't what you were asking, but really, if the hole is straight, it doesn't matter if it goes straight through the center of the blank. Unless you want to align the grain, which is often a good thing to do.

2. The others have given you good answers on the splitting thing. Most often it is caused by a crack that forms when you are drilling. Clear your chips often. And it helps to drill down into a waste piece of wood under the pen blank, to avoid any grabbing by the bit as it exits the blank. Once you get the blank on the lathe there are a million reasons they can break - sometimes just because you look at them wrong! You're probably doing things just fine and this one decided to break. Do ten, and if they all break, we'll know you're doing something wrong.

3. I think 600 grit paper is too low to get the nice shine. But you can stop at 600 and either buff with a buffing wheel, or polish with a polishing compound. All Micro Mesh really does is polish.

4. Do a CA finish, or a lacquer finish, but both would be overkill.

5. After applying the CA/BLO I always polish with the Micro Mesh or buff. This is what brings out the shine. Nothing else is needed over the CA finish. But I do use Rennaissance Wax as a protective coat over the whole pen after it is assembled. Wipe on, wipe off. It does not need to be buffed in.

Go and make some more pens, and you'll find that you are probably doing just fine.

Scott.

 

[William Young]

Thanks Drew.
I did a google on it and I see it is a SB laquer sealer. I am wondering if it would be compatable with the WB laquer that I am using for my final finishing. Of couse it it is followed by more sanding and EEE there probably wouldn't be enough left on the wood to be concerned about.
W.Y.

 

[William Young]

William (the dentist)
I wish I could help you there but you are using Deft SB laquer. (solvent based) . I have never tried it on pens. I am using WB (water based) laquer.
I have a couple suggestions though.
If you are thinning it at all, that will reduce the solids in the product and may cause the slower curing. Laquer applied full strength should be dry to the touch in 5 to 10 minutes and sandable to a fine powder in half an hour. I spray my WB laquer full strength out of the can.

Also, heat is a big factor with laquer. I always turn up the heat in my shop regardless of the time of year when spraying laquer. At least 75 to 80 degrees for an hour or so before spraying so both the product and the wood has equalized out to that temperature.

Hope one or both of those ideas help some. If I spray in the evening I can buff the blanks the next morning with some compound (tipoli I think...white bar) on a buffing wheel in a high speed hand drill.
W.Y.

 

[William Young]

Drew;
Thanks for the correction on that. I havn't used that type of laquer since WB became available. Makes sense that more laquer thinner could actually accelerate the drying time. Sorry for my missunderstanding.
W.Y.

 

[fhinde]

Chad,

I would like to add to the excellent comments already giving. As far as the blanks splitting, SHARP tools are essential in preventing cracks and splits. Not only your turning tools but your drill bits as well. When drilling with a dull bit you overheat the wood causing cracks and dull bits can catch causing cracks. Also you will get more bit drift with a dull drill bit. Now, I am no expert but this is what I have experienced.