New "toy"...no instructions

[Richard Gibson]

After reading many times here about drilling on the lathe, I decided to get the attachments to do so. I got a Barracuda Chuck and a 1/2 Drill Chuck. The taper is separate from the drill chuck and no instructions of how to "attach" it.

There is a mention on the PSI site that it "accepts a 1/4x20 screw". How and where does this screw go? Is it through the jaws of the chuck and into the mandrel? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Gary Beasley]

That would be where it should be if it uses one. The chuck I have doesn't have a screw, just presses on like the morse taper.

 

[glycerine]

The 1/4x20 "screw" might be referring to a drawbar, to keep it in the headstock...

 

[Richard Gibson]

That would be where it should be if it uses one. The chuck I have doesn't have a screw, just presses on like the morse taper.

Gary, that what I thought also. The threads are in the other end of the taper. I pressed it on and used it a few times. As I was backing out of a piece of acrylic, the chuck came off the taper and hit me in the chest ( not hard thank goodness) and broke the acrylic. That's when I decided I needed to ask for some help. Do I just need to tap it on harder?

 

[Richard Gibson]

The 1/4x20 "screw" might be referring to a drawbar, to keep it in the headstock...

I think you are right.

 

[ed4copies]

Is there a picture on the PSI website you could direct us to?? (for your chuck)

 

[randyrls]

There is a mention on the PSI site that it "accepts a 1/4x20 screw". How and where does this screw go? Is it through the jaws of the chuck and into the mandrel? Any help would be appreciated.

Richard; Do you have the drill chuck & adapter PSI part number(s)? What is the taper in your tail stock?

Normally drilling on the lathe, the chuck attaches to the head stock and the drill chuck and adapter inserts into the tail stock taper. The Headstock chuck with the blank in it spins and the drill bit is stationary. With this setup you do not need a drawbar, but just keep a hold on the drill chuck.

 

[KenV]

Richard -- the morse taper has another taper on the other end that matches the recess in the drill chuck body. These are commonly a Jacobs Taper (JT) with a number attached such as JT3 or JT6. The two JT parts fit together with friction.

I normally use the headstock to fit them and use a dial indicator measure runout and a rubber mallet to provide adjustment. Once a tight fit with minimum runout you are good to go --

Runout in the range of 0,005 is pretty common with more than than an opportunity to use the mallet. I have a few with more than than and a couple that I "red lined" because they would not do better than my cutoff of 0.015.

Randy has it right -- Pen blank goes into the jaws and at slower speed, the drill is advanced with the tail stock.

Draw bolts are needed in the head stock, and are optional in the tail stock if you have a through bore in the tail stock (some lathes do not have that feature). Cleaning Morse Tapers is a good practice when putting the drill chuck and taper into place --

Some drill chucks do have a restraining screw inserted through the jaws that fastens into the end of the MT fitting. Some chucks designed for hand drills are threaded for 3/8 by 24 threads and also have a restraining screw

 

[Richard Gibson]

Thanks for the input guys. I have a Jet 1220. This the is PSI link for the chuck: http://www.pennstateind.com/mm5/mer...ode=TM32&Store_Code=PS&showreviews=1#prodtabs.
I am putting the blank in the Barracuda chuck in the headstock and the drill chuck in the tail stock. The more I read here and look at it, I think I just needed to tap the taper in tighter.

 

[Fred]

Richard, also make sure that the Morse taper is clean of ALL debris and that your tail stock is also clean. You should not have to use much, IF ANY, force aside from a good seating to get the tail stock to grasp the taper.

ANY debris can cause the device to either slip and spin or get stuck. A light coating of WD-40 is also a good idea after any cleaning.

Good luck and have fun ...

 

[toddlajoie]

I think I just needed to tap the taper in tighter.

Yes, the chuck is held to the Morse Taper with another taper... I've never had a problem with that taper coming loose, but if I remember right, it came as 2 separate pieces and needed to be assembled...

And yes, the 14-20 is to make a drawbar. For my Jet 1012, a foot of 1/4-20 rod was just about enough. A couple of washers and a Plastic handled nut was all I needed. Keep in mind that if you tighten it down good, it's going to take a few whacks with a hammer to get it off when it's time to remove it, and whacking the 1/4-20 rod is not healthy for the threads. I picked up one of the threaded connectors (used to connect 2 pieces of threaded rod, sort of like a VERY thick nut...) Thread that on about 3/4 of the way and you can smack it pretty well with out messing up the threads...

 

[Richard Gibson]

Thanks to ALL of you. I've drilled 15 blanks with it today so , with your help, I GOT IT RIGHT!!

 

[jlord]

I have a Jet 1220 also. Make sure you crank out the tailstock a little so your taper does not bottom out. It is self ejecting when fully retracted.