MikeJ
Member
Hi,
I have been turning for a little over a year now, but until this fall only made one or 2 pens. then my Wife asked me to make pens for her family for the holidays. I get to turn, and no problems with me buying new stuff... A win win for me right .
I ended up making 30 pens (Big family, and also a few for co-workers.) The co worker pens ended up with me making another 20 for a big meeting here in 2 weeks.
So after all this, I had fun and became a little bit of a better turner, but ran into some issues I'm not sure why I had.
All the pen kits used were the PK 7mm slimline from PSI
My biggest problem was the tubes beaking free from the blanks when I was trueing them up on my drill press. I always cleaned the tubes up with emory cloth before glueing, and could see the dried glue on the tubes after they broke free. I always let them sit at least 24 hours before trimming them.
I have a barrel trimmer from PSI that I use on a very old drill press. I make sure the shaft of the trimmer is inside the tube before I turn the press on just in case, but still some broke free.
Could it be the glue? I used 2 different types of Home depot super glue, PSI glue and even water activated polyurethane glue. All had failures.
I was wondering if my drill press isn't running true and a slight wobble is generating too much heat? I'm not sure how to check that except if I clamp a block down and drill a hole, it seems true and the right size.
I'm at a loss.
Also, the majority of the pens I made were various woods, but some were acrylic. They posed a new set of issues. On 3 different blanks there were from what I can tell faults near the center where the blanks blew apart when they got thin. I was very careful to use very sharp tools, and to try to keep any heat generated to a minimum. I used a very light touch to take off only a little at a time as the walls got thinner. That didn't seem to help
Is that normal for acrylics?
Lastly, I noticed that after a few pens my bushings were worn and if I matched the wood to them, it was too thin for the actual pen parts so I started to check my blanks with a caliper. The problem I ran into there was that almost all the center bands and pen tips had different outside dimensions. They were close, but different enough to feel if looking for a smooth transition.
Is that normal? Just something found on less expensive pen kits?
I'm sure some of this is just a learning experience, and me needing to develop better techniques. That I'm fine with. I'm just wondering if I'm doing or using something fundementally wrong.
Sorry for all the questions!
Thanks!
I have been turning for a little over a year now, but until this fall only made one or 2 pens. then my Wife asked me to make pens for her family for the holidays. I get to turn, and no problems with me buying new stuff... A win win for me right .
I ended up making 30 pens (Big family, and also a few for co-workers.) The co worker pens ended up with me making another 20 for a big meeting here in 2 weeks.
So after all this, I had fun and became a little bit of a better turner, but ran into some issues I'm not sure why I had.
All the pen kits used were the PK 7mm slimline from PSI
My biggest problem was the tubes beaking free from the blanks when I was trueing them up on my drill press. I always cleaned the tubes up with emory cloth before glueing, and could see the dried glue on the tubes after they broke free. I always let them sit at least 24 hours before trimming them.
I have a barrel trimmer from PSI that I use on a very old drill press. I make sure the shaft of the trimmer is inside the tube before I turn the press on just in case, but still some broke free.
Could it be the glue? I used 2 different types of Home depot super glue, PSI glue and even water activated polyurethane glue. All had failures.
I was wondering if my drill press isn't running true and a slight wobble is generating too much heat? I'm not sure how to check that except if I clamp a block down and drill a hole, it seems true and the right size.
I'm at a loss.
Also, the majority of the pens I made were various woods, but some were acrylic. They posed a new set of issues. On 3 different blanks there were from what I can tell faults near the center where the blanks blew apart when they got thin. I was very careful to use very sharp tools, and to try to keep any heat generated to a minimum. I used a very light touch to take off only a little at a time as the walls got thinner. That didn't seem to help
Is that normal for acrylics?
Lastly, I noticed that after a few pens my bushings were worn and if I matched the wood to them, it was too thin for the actual pen parts so I started to check my blanks with a caliper. The problem I ran into there was that almost all the center bands and pen tips had different outside dimensions. They were close, but different enough to feel if looking for a smooth transition.
Is that normal? Just something found on less expensive pen kits?
I'm sure some of this is just a learning experience, and me needing to develop better techniques. That I'm fine with. I'm just wondering if I'm doing or using something fundementally wrong.
Sorry for all the questions!
Thanks!
Last edited: