Need some tips on turning redheart & maple.

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Rolandranch

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I would like to know how to keep the redheart dust out of the maple when sanding a redheart/maple blank? I have not figured out a way to do it and would really appreciate some tips on how to prevent it or at least reduce it.
Thanks.

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1080Wayne

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Don/t know what it looked like before you started sanding , but the first step is to leave your turned surface as smooth as possible , ideally so that you don/t need any thing coarser than 400 grit . Then seal the wood grain to fill all of the pores , using sanding sealer or maybe even better , thin CA . Then sand .
 

KenV

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Seth -- this is even more a challenge with ebony (hard) and Holly (soft) that are often used together in segmented turning.

Sanding both together will give you a muddy surface as the dark moves into the light.

Finish cuts that are very very close to final turned size including shear scraping helps.

Blowing out the grain with compressed air helps.

Not sanding the wood at all -- sanding the finish as it is built on the surface -- helps.

Doing all these things will reduce the bleed -- but may not stop it, especially if the finish transports color from one wood to the other -- especially in the end grain of the light colored wood.
 

Skie_M

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I'ld try wiping the blank down with rubbing alcohol...

If that doesn't work, sanding laterally (along the spindle length) could help clean up the appearance of the wood... You may want to go ahead and seal it if you can clean it up, and then continue with the sanding process.

You may also want to look up and practice techniques involving the skew, which can put a near-finished surface on your projects that require very little sanding

If I were faced with an issue like this, my approach would be ....

Turn spindle round with roughing gouge, then to near diameter with 1/2 inch bowl gouge (my favorite, I have good control with it).

Then, pull out my skew and carefully go along the top of my spindle to take very light cuts and leave a very smooth surface behind, taking it down to the bushings.

Apply some rubbing alcohol to a pad and wipe the surface as it's spinning at low speed, wait for it to dry (dust removal).

Apply Minwax Stain and Seal (natural color) with a pad as it's spinning at low speed, immediately followed by 2 coats of superglue. (the first coat dries almost instantly).

Sand back the superglue (which has filled the pores in the wood) till I can barely see the bare wood again, and do my finish sanding up to 1000 grit.

Re-apply the Minwax and Superglue, add an additional 5 - 8 coats of superglue (your preference, here, as you may want to do a finish other than CA, of course).

Sand wet from 1000 grit (jump to micromesh) up to 12,000 grit (I stop to sand out the radial lines every few grits), buff with PlastX and apply Turtlewax Hard Surface Wax on top...


Now ... some of this might help you, some of it might not. Learn what you can of every process and method, and use what works right for you! :)
 

jttheclockman

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I would like to know how to keep the redheart dust out of the maple when sanding a redheart/maple blank? I have not figured out a way to do it and would really appreciate some tips on how to prevent it or at least reduce it.
Thanks.

This is what's happening.
View attachment 137005



I have some experience in this realm. i am highly into segmenting pen blanks. I combine different medium as well as different woods all the time. You have experienced the dreaded cross contamination of colored woods. To be honest with you, the best answer I can give you is learn to use the Skew. I always finish turning my segmented blanks with a skew. There is no sanding afterwards. Just not needed. When top coating I use thin CA to seal the blank. Lightly wipe on real quick and not making alot of passes. Do 3 coats and then switch to med. CA for final coats which is usually 4 coats.

If you are determined to sand then you must seal the wood before sanding and for that you may want to try a sanding sealer (spray can) Do not wipe the blank down with anything. Blow the dust off. Do this until you have the blank sealed and then finish with your favorite finishing technique.

Here are some examples and these were all done with a skew. No sanding until MM the finish. Good luck.


Ebony and Holly






Bloodwood and Maple



 

Rolandranch

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Thank you all for the tips and methods! (Your pens are beautiful (Mr.) John!) I do use a small carbide skew that doesn't leave the wood very smooth. I will try using a normal HHS skew to see if there is a difference. I love segmenting pens with lots of different kinds of wood so these tips are very helpful. (Last pen I did had 15 different types of wood and 128 different pieces.) I will try these tips next chance I get!
 

Imaginethat

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Seth, just looked through the Instagram site (favorite_things_shop), WOW!! Very nice work. I believe you are a true artist/craftsman with many fine years ahead! I don't know if all the work on the site is yours, but it does look as if you have had a hand in training/making most of the projects.

Great job
 

Rolandranch

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Seth, just looked through the Instagram site (favorite_things_shop), WOW!! Very nice work. I believe you are a true artist/craftsman with many fine years ahead! I don't know if all the work on the site is yours, but it does look as if you have had a hand in training/making most of the projects.
Great job

Thank you. Most of the work on the site is mine but my brothers also have a part in it. I started woodworking last year in November and ever since then I spend most of my time out in the shop (when school is out).
Thanks again!
 

jttheclockman

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Seth, just looked through the Instagram site (favorite_things_shop), WOW!! Very nice work. I believe you are a true artist/craftsman with many fine years ahead! I don't know if all the work on the site is yours, but it does look as if you have had a hand in training/making most of the projects.
Great job

Thank you. Most of the work on the site is mine but my brothers also have a part in it. I started woodworking last year in November and ever since then I spend most of my time out in the shop (when school is out).
Thanks again!

Well I too took a look and there is some serious work in there and many different genre too. At 15 years old and to be that accomplished of a woodworker is truely amazing. My hats off to you. Turning segmented bowls like that takes some knowledge. I also see you scrollsaw. I like the scrolled baskets. I make many of those. What scrollsaw do you use???

Keep up the great work.
 

Rolandranch

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Well I too took a look and there is some serious work in there and many different genre too. At 15 years old and to be that accomplished of a woodworker is truely amazing. My hats off to you. Turning segmented bowls like that takes some knowledge. I also see you scrollsaw. I like the scrolled baskets. I make many of those. What scrollsaw do you use???
Keep up the great work.

I use an Excalibur scrollsaw. It's a very decent scrollsaw, it leaves good clean cuts, and it's quiet. My older brother and two of my younger brothers also do a lot of scrollwork with it. That scrolled basket was my first one and was made out of poplar and redwood. I can't take credit though for that segmented bowl. My dad made it but I am planning on doing one soon.
Thanks for the encouragement!
 

jttheclockman

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Well I too took a look and there is some serious work in there and many different genre too. At 15 years old and to be that accomplished of a woodworker is truely amazing. My hats off to you. Turning segmented bowls like that takes some knowledge. I also see you scrollsaw. I like the scrolled baskets. I make many of those. What scrollsaw do you use???
Keep up the great work.

I use an Excalibur scrollsaw. It's a very decent scrollsaw, it leaves good clean cuts, and it's quiet. My older brother and two of my younger brothers also do a lot of scrollwork with it. That scrolled basket was my first one and was made out of poplar and redwood. I can't take credit though for that segmented bowl. My dad made it but I am planning on doing one soon.
Thanks for the encouragement!


That is a very nice saw. I started out doing scroll work to make some money over 30 years ago. I still do it and it is my first passion hobby. I have 2-RBI Hawks, 1-Hegner, and 1Dewalt. Takes alot of patience to do scrollsaw work but it is rewarding. Keep up the great work and we expect great things from you now. Join in the conversations and be proud of your work.
 
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