Need Cigar Pen Dissasembly Help

[William Young]

I made a cigar pen and applied 6 consecutive applications of Turners Magic for the first time and it wore off in two weeks of use just like any other friction finish I have used. So I want to take it apart and put my favorite WB laquer finish on it which will last for many years of contiuous use.
I have the kit for dissasembly for slimlines. Is there one available for Cigar pens as well ? I don't want to ruin the mechanism or any other parts by not knowing the right procedure for cigar pens.If I can't take it apart and re-finish it I will just get rid of the pen for the price of materials and tell my customer why and chalk it up to experience. I also have a few more that I have tried the finish on and they look nice but I know the finish will not last if its going to be anyhthing but a show piece so I want to take them apart as well.
W.Y.

 

[wudwrkr]

For Cigar Pens, I use the transfer punch set from Harbor Freight. It works for just about any pen I need to take apart.

 

[William Young]

Thanks Dave.
I checked that out at Harbor Freight and indeed they do have a set for
$9.99. That would cost me over $20.00 in Canadian funds when including S/H.

On the other hand, I am wondering if high speed twist drills could be used by inserting them backwards for driving out the pieces ?.

W.Y.

 

[DCBluesman]

That will work, Bill, or you can even turn a tight fitting dowel.

 

[jkoehler]

William,
Do you have a Princess Auto near by?
that is where i was able to find the transfer punches that i have.

 

[William Young]

Thanks Guys;
The nearest Princess Auto is a 6.5 hr drive each way.
I will try the drills first ad see how that works.
W.Y.

 

[jkoehler]

be careful with the drill bits.
i tried the drill bits.
my suggestion, have the band-aids near by.
at least i should have.
that is why i got the transfer punches.

 

[wayneis]

I use the twist drill bits all the time one tip that I can give is to use a piece of the rubber shelf linner to wrap around the blank. I prefer the webbed type as it gives me a better grip on the blank. They sell this stuff at most hardware and big box type stores. Anyways just cut yourself a piece of the linner about six by six and I double it and wrap it around the blank then slide the bvit inside the blank and give it a few sharp wacks with a hammer. If you leave the linner a little long it will end up catching the part that you are removing instead of having to crawl around on the dirty floor of your shop in search of it.

Wayne

 

[William Young]

Hi Jeff;
Thanks for the late warning . I already have three deep slices in my thumb covered with bandaids [V] . I won't do that again.
But I got the clip off and a few other parts and I have re-finished with some of the hardware still on it with WB lacquer now and got it back together.
It is stabilized spalted Appalation black walnut.
It now has a lasting finish instead of a two week friction finish that was on it and wore off in 15 days of use.
W.Y.

 

[DCBluesman]

That's beautiful, Bill! Sorry it was a blood-letting experience.

 

[arioux]

Hi,

If you have one of these t handle allen key set, you have all the dissasembly tool you need. Works for me a least.

<br />

Alfred

 

[jtate]

Okay - newbie here -

Alfred (or anyone) can you eplain how the T Handle allen key set works to dissemble the pen?

It makes me nervous to think about just turning it handle down on the work-bench, grabbing the offending pen part and slamming it down on the business end of the allen wrench, using nothing but my own brute force. (Such as it is...)
Do you just grip it in your hand?
When removing stubborn feed from vintage fountain pens (my passion) one places the pen section, nib down, in a correspondingly sized hole in a block of wood and then, using an apprpriately sized punch, one knocks the feed loose via hammer blows. It gets "knocked out" of the section - hence the name of the tool - a knock-out block. That works because the section (in which the feed is stuck) has a little shoulder to it. The shoulder rests on the outside of the hole that the nib's in.

Call me crazy but I ain't finding no shoulders on the kit pens I'm seeing!

What does the body rest on while pushing out the hardware?

Julia

 

[jtate]

A mighty fancy knock-out block is at

http://www.fountainpenhospital.com/accessories/accessories.asp?TYP=tools

Mine's just several chunks of scrap board all glued together and vigorously addressed with varying sizes of otherwise uinidentified drill bits. Hey - she ain't purty but she gets the job done!

Julia.

 

[arioux]

Hi Julia,

Most of the kit parts have a shoulder that isflush with the barrel of the pen so a knock out block is useless. Most of the time, i hold the barrel in my hand, using a rubber pad that my wife uses for openning jars, made of the same material that the router carpet is made of, and just knock on the t handle with a small hammer. I find out that many smaller hits are better than a bid one. The only time i use some kind of support is for the transmission. I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in a peice of hard wood about 3 inche long, it act as a know out block. For a fountain pen nib, this wont work of course []

I found out that the various size of allen key i have fits all the kits i have tried so far. Of course, there are many other ways to do it, this one works for me and uses the tools i have in hand.
Hope my english is not too offending, it's not my natural language and i rarely write such a long post[]

Alfred

 

[Randy_]

Alfred: Your English is excellent!! I would be ecstatic if my French were half as good. If fact, if my English were as good as yours, it would be a step up. Good job.....keep posting!!