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knottyharry

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The next pic is of the pen blank at the end of the board. By moving the pen blank one way or the other will determine wher the kerfs are made. I didn't quite understand how Richard used the tape. But what I did was to use scotch tape across the top of the pen blank to hold it in place and I lined it up with the upper corner of the board.



200541614419_inlay-3.jpg



With the end of the board against the fence, just slide the board straight into the blade. Now you are only cutting half way or about through the pen blank so lay something on the pen blank to hold it down.
Next pic is of the finished blank.



200541615350_inlay-4.jpg



I'm sure i'm forgetting something, so if you want to know something just ask.
And thank Richard for his efforts on this, not me.
Harry
 
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write-n-style

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A suggestion
A sled on the saw with a piece of stock cut at the angle you want would be a much safer and accurate operation.
 

Daniel

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The photo of the saw set up is helpful. adn considering the sled comment was just starting to run through my mind a way to construct a sled that would mount to the miter gauge. making it adjustable for the angel of the cut. this appears to be 45 degrees. decreasing the angle the miter gauge is set at )in a clockwise direction) would cause the cut to be longer across the blank. the problem I'm seeing with a jig is that as the blank (jig) is rotated. it will also move out of line with the saw blade. somehow the jig must be allowed to adjust to bring the blank back into line with the blade. hope that makes since. one idea would be to keep the jig square to the blade and have a set of blocks cut at various angles. the picture would represent a 45 degree block. by cutting a 60 degree block you would again be increasing the length of the cut made. but in this case I think the blank would stay in the correct line with the blade.
 

write-n-style

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Originally posted by Daniel
<br />The photo of the saw set up is helpful. adn considering the sled comment was just starting to run through my mind a way to construct a sled that would mount to the miter gauge. making it adjustable for the angel of the cut. this appears to be 45 degrees. decreasing the angle the miter gauge is set at )in a clockwise direction) would cause the cut to be longer across the blank. the problem I'm seeing with a jig is that as the blank (jig) is rotated. it will also move out of line with the saw blade. somehow the jig must be allowed to adjust to bring the blank back into line with the blade. hope that makes since. one idea would be to keep the jig square to the blade and have a set of blocks cut at various angles. the picture would represent a 45 degree block. by cutting a 60 degree block you would again be increasing the length of the cut made. but in this case I think the blank would stay in the correct line with the blade.

The sled would need to be a two runner sled.
Make like a normal sled.
The rear fence is fixed to hold both halves together.
An "auxillary fence (or more than one) would be screwed done to "T" nuts.
The aux. fences woulbe cut at different angles if desired.
Doing it this way a stop block could be added to orient the blank in the same position as it is rotated.
 

Woodnknots

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Originally posted by Ken Massingale
<br />Mike,
Maple or similar hardwood makes excellent runners.
ken
UHMW also makes great runners. I find that with hardwood, you really have to wax the runners often, especially if its humid out. UHMW takes all the guess work out of it.
 

RPM

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You guys are one the right track. I got in from the west coast late last night, yard work today and I didn't have a chance to post. As you can see, alot of possibilities here. BTW, two surface tape as used by "non-penturners" for holding face plate turnings on the set up shown is perfectly safe. Of course you can use a sled if you have one. The only thing missing from my suggested set up is using a block clamped to the rip fence to register the setup for exact repeatability for each 90* rotation (this assumes that your blank is square). Glad to share.
Richard
 
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