modified slims with long lower barrel

[sbwertz]

I have seen modified slims that have a longer than normal lower barrel. How do you make the transmission fit properly so the refill extends the proper amount? I've always made my bandless slims with a slightly longer and wider upper barrel to look like a cap because I couldn't figure out how to adjust the transmission for a longer lower barrel

 

[soligen]

If I understand what you want ......

I havent done it. I can think of a couple ways to do it. The simplest is to just leave the top of the lower barrel without a tube so the transmission goes in a little ways before engaging the tube. Use a material strong enough that the lack of tube in part of it is not an issue.

If material strength was an issue, I would solder a 7mm tube about half way into a 8mm tube then step drill the barrel. The 8mm tube provides the relief needed to get the transmission to the 7mm tube. Use of the slimline kit CB would not be possible with this option, bit if you are doing all this, you would want a custom CB anyway.

 

[titan2]

I have seen modified slims that have a longer than normal lower barrel. How do you make the transmission fit properly so the refill extends the proper amount? I've always made my bandless slims with a slightly longer and wider upper barrel to look like a cap because I couldn't figure out how to adjust the transmission for a longer lower barrel

If you're talking about the refill extending to the proper length at the nib end.....then you'll have to push the tranny in a little farther so that the refill extends to the proper length.

On cartridge pens.....the .308 has the transmission installed to just about the top of the brass section.... on the 30.06 it has to go much further in for everything to work. The same would go for a slim line pen with a longer lower barrel.

Hope this helps....


Barney

 

[gawdelpus]

Not sure which kit has a longer barrelled nib end( i think it may be a streamline) In the kit I am thinking of the activater is simply pressed in to the barrel a bit further to leave about 13/16" ths for the cap to seat on . I am sure their are others as well that need the activator pressed in a bit further because of the barrell length being a bit longer
Cheers John

 

[areaman]

Sharon, I have one I am using right now, modified slim one piece. the transmission is installed as normal on the lower piece (tube). because the refill screws into the transmission, you can make the upper length as long as wanted. not sure if this is what you were refering to or not.
Bill

 

[1080Wayne]

Press the transmission further into the tube by an amount equal to the extra length of the lower barrel . Stop a bit short of this amount and try the refill . If it doesn`t extend far enough , press it in a bit more , in small steps , trying the refill each time . If you get it in too far it can be a pain to punch it back - basically the farther in it is , the more difficult to remove the transmission .

 

[Linarestribe]

Make a stop block for slims. A block with a grove cut to the correct length. Use a regular slim that you like how far the point twists out and use that length as the length of the stop block.

I think Craft Supplies sells one for ten dollars.

Jorge

 

[Lenny]

One way to ensure that you press the transmission to the correct depth is to use a stop block. Because the distance from the top of the transmission to the end of the nib is always a constant (the refills are always the same length).... by measuring one that is at the correct length and cutting a block that length, you can press to the block and get consistant results everytime.
Of course I don't do that ... but do as I say not as I do!


Opps beat me to it !!!

 

[Smitty37]

long lower tube.

I have seen modified slims that have a longer than normal lower barrel. How do you make the transmission fit properly so the refill extends the proper amount? I've always made my bandless slims with a slightly longer and wider upper barrel to look like a cap because I couldn't figure out how to adjust the transmission for a longer lower barrel

Look at instructions for the Euro.....the lower tube on them is longer than a slimline. I think you just seat the transmission farther in the tube.

 

[its_virgil]

The distance from the end of the nib to the end of the transmission needs to be 3.95 inches which will give a really nice fit for the refill. The length of the lower barrel does not matter...make it longer or shorter. Of course, the lower barrel can be made too short or too long.:biggrin: Just press in the transmission into the tube a little more than normal. Remember: 3.95 inches. Making a block as Lenny suggested is a very handy little tool to have.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

One way to ensure that you press the transmission to the correct depth is to use a stop block. Because the distance from the top of the transmission to the end of the nib is always a constant (the refills are always the same length).... by measuring one that is at the correct length and cutting a block that length, you can press to the block and get consistant results everytime.
Of course I don't do that ... but do as I say not as I do!


Opps beat me to it !!!

 

[sbwertz]

The distance from the end of the nib to the end of the transmission needs to be 3.95 inches which will give a really nice fit for the refill. The length of the lower barrel does not matter...make it longer or shorter. Of course, the lower barrel can be made too short or too long.:biggrin: Just press in the transmission into the tube a little more than normal. Remember: 3.95 inches. Making a block as Lenny suggested is a very handy little tool to have.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

One way to ensure that you press the transmission to the correct depth is to use a stop block. Because the distance from the top of the transmission to the end of the nib is always a constant (the refills are always the same length).... by measuring one that is at the correct length and cutting a block that length, you can press to the block and get consistant results everytime.
Of course I don't do that ... but do as I say not as I do!


Opps beat me to it !!!

Thank you Don, It was your pens here
http://content.penturners.org/library/pens/slimline_modifications.pdf
that got me interested

I didn't know if I pressed the transmission deeper into the lower barrel if it would prevent the upper barrel from turning. I was afraid the upper part of the transmission would bind in the lower barrel.

I really like the look of your modified slims. I love the slimlines, although about the only time I actually turn it as a slimline is when I'm turning corian. They allow you to use your imagination and creativity more than any other kit.

This is my latest effort

 

[refueler1]

Does any sell a longer pen refill? That would make things alot easier than messing with the transmission.

 

[its_virgil]

I do not know of any longer refills for the slimline pen. It really isn't much of a hassel to mess with the transmission. After making a few of the modified slimline referenced in this thread the transmission can be pressed really close to its final resting place on the first try. Then just adjust. Or, do as Lenny suggested and make a block the correct length and press the parts using the block. As I mentioned, the correct length from nib tip to transmission end is 3.95 inches...every time.

Lenny: go make yourself a block!

Do a good turn daily1!
Don

Does any sell a longer pen refill? That would make things alot easier than messing with the transmission.

 

[its_virgil]

You're welcome, Sharon. Thanks for reading the article and even more thanks for finding it useful and using the information. It is good to know that they are being used.

As mentioned, be sure the end of the tube is deburred and a champfer helps also. Several types of deburring/champfuring tools are available. The burr left after using a pen mill can interfer with the transmission functioning properly. The upper tube only has to slide over the transmission a little to work. I cut the upper tube to about 1" long when I make the one piece slimline. It is easier to take apart. I just finished an article outlinging a couple of improvements on the one piece slimline. As soon as it is published I will post a copy here.

More detailed insturctions on some of my slimline modifications can be found on my website at http://www.RedRiverPens.com/articles

Slimlines get my creative juices flowing...

I've been noticing some of your slimline pens the last few weeks and they are looking really nice. I look forward to seeing your next one. Keep 'em coming.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Thank you Don, It was your pens here
http://content.penturners.org/library/pens/slimline_modifications.pdf
that got me interested

I didn't know if I pressed the transmission deeper into the lower barrel if it would prevent the upper barrel from turning. I was afraid the upper part of the transmission would bind in the lower barrel.

I really like the look of your modified slims. I love the slimlines, although about the only time I actually turn it as a slimline is when I'm turning corian. They allow you to use your imagination and creativity more than any other kit.

This is my latest effort

 

[its_virgil]

Here you go Lenny...and Sharon. This may help. It works for me. Drawing one was easier than finding mine. It is packed away in my traveling box which I used to teach at a club meeting last week. Do a good turn daily!
Don

 

[sbwertz]

As mentioned, be sure the end of the tube is deburred and a champfer helps also. Several types of deburring/champfuring tools are available. The burr left after using a pen mill can interfer with the transmission functioning properly. The upper tube only has to slide over the transmission a little to work. I cut the upper tube to about 1" long when I make the one piece slimline. It is easier to take apart. I just finished an article outlinging a couple of improvements on the one piece slimline. As soon as it is published I will post a copy here.

I use this for a deburring tool

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1146&filter=countersink

Is it OK?

 

[its_virgil]

I would bet that most who use a deburring tool use one like or similar to that one. I see those in a lot of penturning books.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

I use this for a deburring tool

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1146&filter=countersink

Is it OK?

 

[ohiococonut]

Don
Thanks for the visual aid with the stop block. It'll sure make it easier instead of trial and error every time. I'm also glad you mentioned your web site because I'd seen something about arrow shaft pens but couldn't remember where the heck I'd seen it. I've got a couple of bent shafts that I just couldn't part with and now I have a use for them!
Lots of good info there that I plan to put to use.

Here's what I use to chamfer/debur only because I also reload. It allows me to do the inside and outside of the tube if I cut my own. Midway does sell cheaper ones, this just happens to be the one I have.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=143728

 

[titan2]

Don
Thanks for the visual aid with the stop block. It'll sure make it easier instead of trial and error every time. I'm also glad you mentioned your web site because I'd seen something about arrow shaft pens but couldn't remember where the heck I'd seen it. I've got a couple of bent shafts that I just couldn't part with and now I have a use for them!
Lots of good info there that I plan to put to use.

Here's what I use to chamfer/debur only because I also reload. It allows me to do the inside and outside of the tube if I cut my own. Midway does sell cheaper ones, this just happens to be the one I have.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=143728

That's the same chamfer/debur tool that I use......I cut my own tubes for my caligraphy/dip pen kits and it works real well.


Barney

 

[PenMan1]

My stop block is almost identical to Don's, except I cut it 4 inches long. I always have put the refill in, open it fully, AND THEN make another tiny little press stroke. I may sand the back of my jig to 3.95 inches.

I made it a little longer, because a long time ago all Cross style refills were not created equal, meaning that some were a "tad" longer. Today, that issue seems to have been resolved as all refills appear to be identical.

 

[its_virgil]

I have seen the spacer block reported to be 3 15/16 inches which is 3.9375 and 3 31/32 inches which is 3.96875 inches. Both will give a good seating. I just settled on 3.95 inches mostlyn because I like that look and it works with every slimline kit I've used and I think I've use all of them. Some I like much better than others.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

My stop block is almost identical to Don's, except I cut it 4 inches long. I always have put the refill in, open it fully, AND THEN make another tiny little press stroke. I may sand the back of my jig to 3.95 inches.

I made it a little longer, because a long time ago all Cross style refills were not created equal, meaning that some were a "tad" longer. Today, that issue seems to have been resolved as all refills appear to be identical.