Miter saw

[ThomJ]

I have a small miter saw, and recommendations on blade to use for cutting blanks, PR & wood?

Thanks
Thom

 

[Tim'sTurnings]

I would suggest the finest tooth blade you can afford, in order to get the smoothest cuts. Perhaps 60 or 80 tpi? Just my opinion.

 

[PaulDoug]

If you are just using it to cut blanks I would get a combo blade, carbide tip. If you are going to cut for segmenting, I agree with smoothest cut.

Ha, now that I reread your post, I see I (again) don't know what I'm talking about. I'm thinking table saw, I've never used a miter saw, so I don't know if what I said applies.

 

[GaryMGg]

Thom,
What size is small?
What kind of cuts are you planning with this miter saw?

Generally, I've found Freud makes very good quality blades in a range of sizes having different
tooth configurations for different cuts at reasonable prices.

 

[ThomJ]

Gary, 7 1/4, just for straight cuts on blanks

 

[GaryMGg]

Thom,
If you're making straight crosscuts, I'd look at the Diablo.
Probably more important than the blade for this purpose is a jig to create a
zero-tolerance throat plate for the Miter saw and hold-downs so you don't
have to put your mitts near the spinning blade.
The Acrylics I've worked with are harder to cut than most woods and want to move
if not properly restrained.

 

[DurocShark]

I have a 8 1/4" compound miter saw and use a 60 tooth Delta Industrial 8" blade on it. Because I have a zero clearance base and fence, the slightly smaller blade doesn't matter.

I still prefer the table saw with a small sled for most things, the CMS is always loaded and ready to go when I don't wanna mess with the TS.

 

[KenV]

If you are headed to setmentation - I strongly suggest you get with the segmented woodturning crowd to see some jigs for making cuts -- One excellent source is Malcolm Tibbitts (www.tahoeturner.com). He has an outstanding book and his DVDs show how he has rigged auxilary tables and holddowns as well as the cutting processes -- like making sure the blade has stopped turning before returning the blade.

Tuning the saw, getting a good blade - looking at jigs all goes together. Biggest is to assure your fingers stay a long ways from the blade by using great hold-downs to keep the pieces in control.

 

[Smitty37]

Mitre Saw

I have a small miter saw, and recommendations on blade to use for cutting blanks, PR & wood?

Thanks
Thom

Frued makes a bunch of great blades but not all of them in all sizes. Forrest makes great blades as well. For what you want, there are a number of choices...I'm using a 96 tooth Freud myself but others including a combo blade will work as well go slow through the piece for smoother cut.
Carbide tip saves on sharpening cost because the last longer between sharpenings but isn't absolutely necessary.

There is a jig available that clamps to the fence and uses the brass tube to control the length of the cut off blank, easy to set up and keeps your fingers away from the blade. I PSI sells it "PKSCJIG" works great.

 

[penfancy]

A thin kerf blade is key to reduce the amount of waste from each cut. The Diablo series from Freud is fantastic. I've used the same 60 tooth on my 10" miter saw for the past two years. I just pull it off now and again to clean it. Good as new!

 

[jttheclockman]

If you are headed to setmentation - I strongly suggest you get with the segmented woodturning crowd to see some jigs for making cuts -- One excellent source is Malcolm Tibbitts (www.tahoeturner.com). He has an outstanding book and his DVDs show how he has rigged auxilary tables and holddowns as well as the cutting processes -- like making sure the blade has stopped turning before returning the blade.

Tuning the saw, getting a good blade - looking at jigs all goes together. Biggest is to assure your fingers stay a long ways from the blade by using great hold-downs to keep the pieces in control.

Hi Ken. Where have you been hiding??? I have not seen you posting here lately. Hope things are well.