patmurris
Member
I know some do it routinely, and others would rather be dead then being known for doing it... What is your experience with drying pen blanks in the microwave oven?
I've been occasionally drying some blanks that way and for light timbers it does work rather well, but not always. Some timbers will peacefully dry and shrink a little, others will bend a lot, or shrink a lot, of develop checks or even split and sometime all of the above.
Here is how i do it:
1. i weight the wood i intend to dry and write that down
2. i place the blanks on two wooden bbq sticks so that air can flow under them
3. i use short full power bursts until they feel hot but not too much - i should be able to handle them without burning my fingers
4. i leave the door open for 5-10min and heat them again so that they are always about the same temperature - i repeat this a number of times
5. once in a while i weight them again to have an idea of how much water they have lost
7. i go back to step 4 until they stop losing weight
Notes:
How long is a 'burst' depends on how much wood i'm drying. For one blank it may be just 10secs, but for a dozen blanks it may be a full minute.
I always check the wood temperature with my bare hand. With a bit of experience you can also tell whether the wood is still losing water - the heat feels humid at first then it progressively feels drier.
One hint is condensation on the glass plate below the blanks. Each time i weight the blanks, i wipe it off so that the plate is dry. After a while the condensation stops, which does not mean the wood is dry, but tells you it is on it's way.
Drying a dozen blanks can take hours... and is somewhat tedious since i have to start again the MW every 5 or 10 minutes, check the blanks, weight them, start again... until i decide they are dry enough. However, with a little patience i can manage to get fairly dry blanks over the week end for instance. To be safe i'd rather let them sit in a ventilated place for a couple weeks before using them.
I've been occasionally drying some blanks that way and for light timbers it does work rather well, but not always. Some timbers will peacefully dry and shrink a little, others will bend a lot, or shrink a lot, of develop checks or even split and sometime all of the above.
Here is how i do it:
1. i weight the wood i intend to dry and write that down
2. i place the blanks on two wooden bbq sticks so that air can flow under them
3. i use short full power bursts until they feel hot but not too much - i should be able to handle them without burning my fingers
4. i leave the door open for 5-10min and heat them again so that they are always about the same temperature - i repeat this a number of times
5. once in a while i weight them again to have an idea of how much water they have lost
7. i go back to step 4 until they stop losing weight
Notes:
How long is a 'burst' depends on how much wood i'm drying. For one blank it may be just 10secs, but for a dozen blanks it may be a full minute.
I always check the wood temperature with my bare hand. With a bit of experience you can also tell whether the wood is still losing water - the heat feels humid at first then it progressively feels drier.
One hint is condensation on the glass plate below the blanks. Each time i weight the blanks, i wipe it off so that the plate is dry. After a while the condensation stops, which does not mean the wood is dry, but tells you it is on it's way.
Drying a dozen blanks can take hours... and is somewhat tedious since i have to start again the MW every 5 or 10 minutes, check the blanks, weight them, start again... until i decide they are dry enough. However, with a little patience i can manage to get fairly dry blanks over the week end for instance. To be safe i'd rather let them sit in a ventilated place for a couple weeks before using them.