MicroMesh vs EEE....question

[PhilSmith]

A quick question... Is there any advantage of using MicroMesh (up to 12000) over just sanding to 800 and then using EEE Ultrashine? I just sanded a bunch of pens ending with MM and they don't seem to be looking as nice as when I've used EEE. Granted the Ultrashine has a wax base that may give a somewhat better semi-finished looks. Needless to say, ending with EEE is a heck of a lot faster than going through all the steps with MM. What's been your experience???

Along a slightly different line....is there any reason NOT to use EEE Ultrashine if I'm going to have the pens laser engraved?

Thanks...

 

[Rifleman1776]

I've never used EEE. A lot of folks here use MM with great success, including myself. But, whatever works for you is best.

 

[Rmartin]

One problem I've run into with EEE is with Kauri wood. It will turn a good looking Kauri blank black in a heart beat. But, on some lighter woods, it will give them a deaper clolor shine. I don't believe EEE will cause an engraving problem

I do believe MM is superior however. By going through each step, you can eliminate all scratches that under magnification will be left behind by EEE.

 

[Blind_Squirrel]

Depending on the type of wood, EEE can clog the pores. I use the Beale buffing system on all of my resin/acrylic blanks. Sand with 340 to smooth/even things out, then take it to the buffer. I use MM for my wood blanks.

 

[redfishsc]

If you are only finishing with friction polish, I would personally use the micromesh using mineral spirits as the wet-sand medium since water can cause troubles.

However, if you are putting on a CA finish, definitely stick to NOT USING EEE. While I'm sure people use EEE before a CA finish, EEE has a lot of wax, which is NOT good for CA to attempt to bond to.

I do not shine up my wooden pens with any super-high grit abrasive. I sand to 600, ending with a gentle sanding with the grain.... then I seal with two coats of thick CA, both sanded with 600 grit fairly heavily to fill in any grain, and I topcoat with a lacquer-type product. After a solid cure (my stuff cures to a buff-safe hardness in a day or two) I actually WILL use a very light micromesh sanding to buff to a glass-like shine, but this is only on the final finish.

I have micromesed wood before putting on a CA/lacquer type finish and never found a benefit to spending several minutes sanding beyond 600 grit. The pens look the same and the finish is slick as glass.

Some here disagree with me on the "mm or not" issue, and that is fine, but my customers love my pens, the finish lasts an eon, and they look mahhhhhh-valus.