Metal on metal thread solution

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karlkuehn

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Someone may have already come up with this before - I've never looked too hard for solutions because this problem wasn't really high on my priority list, but since I stumbled on it tonight by accident, I figured I'd at least jot it down.

I've been wondering what to do with all these FT American kits that I bought a while back. After I turned a couple, I realized that the metal threads on the inside of the cap were shredding the stupid black plastic nib holders and the black tube on the post, so I quit making them. It's a shame, because they're a cheap way to get into making and monkeying with fountain pens, and I like the traditional look that they have.

Tonight as I was monkeying around in the shop, I decided to get rid of some extra kits that I have lying around, and started speed turning some give away pens. I turned one of the flat tops and while I was putting it together I was trying to figure out how to 'soften' the threads.

Stupid metal threads feel like rubbing two steak knives together when you twist them.

I got to looking at them, and realized that if I could sand the sharpies down a little bit that would help, so I started trying to figure out how to roll up some sandpaper and use it without destroying the finish on the pen fitting. Well, one thing led to another and I was rooting around in my dremel box and came across those little white fluffy polishing dohickeys that I never use.

Eureka!

Stuck one of the little cone shaped ones in the dremel, charged it up with some white diamond and CAREFULLY stuck it in the end of the cap threads for a couple of seconds. I didn't know if it was going to grab and spin the cap up to 10K rpms or not. It worked perfectly without a hitch, they're all smooth now, no more scratches on the black parts, and I can use those kits finally!

While I was typing this up, I was thinking that it might not be a bad idea to charge up another one of those furry things with some carnauba and run it in there for a second to fill any rough spots and lubricate it a little bit. I'll give it a shot and see what happens.

Thought I'd share, anyways, and hopefully it'll help someone!

:)
 
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J

jackrichington

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Never thought of it..thanks for sharing..I always hated that ground glass feeling
 

bgray

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The primary problem that I have with metal on metal threads is not the roughness, but the fact that they don't stay engaged.

When you close the pen, the cap just falls off over time.

Does polishing do anything about this?
 

gerryr

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Originally posted by bgray43050

When you close the pen, the cap just falls off over time.

Does polishing do anything about this?

Probably makes it happen even quicker.

Let's face it, any kit with metal to metal threads is garbage because the threads will not stay engaged.
 

bitshird

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Originally posted by gerryr

Originally posted by bgray43050

When you close the pen, the cap just falls off over time.

Does polishing do anything about this?

Probably makes it happen even quicker.

Let's face it, any kit with metal to metal threads is garbage because the threads will not stay engaged.
The bummer is some of the nicer kits are metal to metal
 

Jarheaded

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And metal on plastic causes the plastic to wear out and crack. So now where do we stand with it. I think we may need to find a different way of attaching the caps without screws. I already saw the magnetic ones, in fact I have 3 of them stuck together right now, so that is out as far as I'm concerned too.
 

karlkuehn

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I still haven't put the carnauba wax on the inside. Maybe that'll help make it sticky a little on the threads? I don't know. Y'all need to just quit putting lidded pens in yer pockets. hehe [:p]
 

mrcook4570

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Mason, WV, USA.
Originally posted by Aderhammer

Plastic to Plastic does the same thing, comes undone. It's more the mechanincs of the multistart threads i believe.

I've never had any problems with plastic to plastic threads. They will stay screwed together.
 

workinforwood

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Eaton Rapids, Michigan, USA.
I find the transition area on threaded pens is uncomfortable. I think the threads should be at the end of the nib. Then the cap threads would be way up inside the barrel. But I can see issues with this idea too, such as that the cap would need to be more precise in length. Best system I can think of would be a push button release. You push a small button at the side which would push open a springy piece of metal somewhat C shaped in design. Be very snazzy and would work spectacular, but surely would drive up the price of manufacturing.
 
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