metal lathe turning

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monark88

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I didn't want to steal skiprat's posting so here's my question. I have been trying to justify buying a mini metal lathe.

How is the nib (rollerball or pencil) accomplished on the metal lathe. Specifically where the diameter is lessened(made smaller) downward toward the nib end?

I can see whereby manipulating the hand-wheels one might be able to do this, but with subsequent passes is it not next to impossible to follow the same angle?

I watched some videos, but could see clearly how this was done.

Aluminum or brass I could probably do on my wood lathes, but not stainless.

Any opinions. ideas, or ?

thanks Russ
 
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Ed McDonnell

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Hi Russ - Search youtube for videos of "cutting a taper on a lathe" for some ideas. You will find plenty on straight tapers which are pretty easy.

Curves are a lot more challenging without a CNC lathe. Etch-a-sketch manipulation of the handwheels followed by a file would be how I would do it if I had to do it, but there must be a better way. Maybe somebody who knows a better way will respond.

Ed
 

monark88

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Hi Russ - Search youtube for videos of "cutting a taper on a lathe" for some ideas. You will find plenty on straight tapers which are pretty easy.

Curves are a lot more challenging without a CNC lathe. Etch-a-sketch manipulation of the handwheels followed by a file would be how I would do it if I had to do it, but there must be a better way. Maybe somebody who knows a better way will respond.

Ed

I will again. I think it might be turning off center(tailstock?). Not sure. I have not a clue on the convex type curves. I guess I guess I can live without them though.
thanks Russ
 

Ed McDonnell

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I will again. I think it might be turning off center(tailstock?). Not sure. I have not a clue on the convex type curves. I guess I guess I can live without them though.
thanks Russ

For a really long taper, turning off center is a solution. For something the size of a pen front section, just setting an angle on the compound is a whole lot easier. That way you don't have to monkey with the tailstock (which is not a precision adjustment on the "value priced" chinese metal lathes).

Ed
 

monark88

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I will again. I think it might be turning off center(tailstock?). Not sure. I have not a clue on the convex type curves. I guess I guess I can live without them though.
thanks Russ

For a really long taper, turning off center is a solution. For something the size of a pen front section, just setting an angle on the compound is a whole lot easier. That way you don't have to monkey with the tailstock (which is not a precision adjustment on the "value priced" chinese metal lathes).

Ed

Good info. Hadn't thought of that.

i am used to turning on a simple rod turning lathe and I find myself often generalizing that experience over to the wood lathe and get into more trouble than not.
Russ
 

skiprat

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As promised, here's a set of quick and dirty pics. I just did these in a piece of stainless. Don't be scared of stainless. It's beautifull to work with once you show it who's boss!!:wink:

Once you get into it, you will spend more time selecting drill bits and deciding on drill depth. Here I only used two drill bits but normally would use at least 4. You may aslo want to include threads etc, but that is a seperate subject.
One of the most important things about cutting tapers is that the tool height MUST be correct. :wink:


Have a go and have fun !!:biggrin:
 

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skiprat

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Ray, it is a 60deg cutter but not specifically a thread cutter. I find these are great for quick rough cutting. When I want a better finish, I prefer using a fresh HSS tool.
 

monark88

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I'm printing out your images so as to have a Go-To pic as I try it out.

You make it look easy and this has a tendency to give one a bit of confidence. I know I'll screw up, but I don't mind. I kinda like throwing stuff when I'm over challenged.( I ALWAYS CHECK FIRST to make sure I don't hit something I really like-or someone).

I appreciate your time that you took to do this. It will help considerably. I'll thank you again later or I'll..............

Russ
 

skiprat

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I'm printing out your images so as to have a Go-To pic as I try it out.

You make it look easy ........
Russ

Russ, you shouldn't waste the ink :biggrin: If you can understand the process then you are more than halfway there. It isn't difficult, you can make it more and more complex as you progress though, but that is what makes it enjoyable.:biggrin:

Skiprat are you matching the angle of the tip of the refill.

I try to. I just eyeball it though. I also try and make the refill protrude so that the angles line up too.
 

monark88

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Portland, Oregon
Well, its like a crutch used long past the time it should have been put away in the closet.

I'm gonna do it, but the saxophone will be put on the back burner-again. The wife ain't gonna like it. It also means my Delta DDL will have to go. Don't have the room for 3 lathes any longer.

Luckily I have a 25% off coupon out of my September National Geographic mag.

Russ
 

hard hat

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Great question and great answers. After getting my metal lathe a few months ago, I've realized they aren't scary. To me, it's my favorite tool in the shop right now. I just need to get the etch-a-sketch method for cutting curves down a little better
 
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