Mastering acrylics

[sbarton22]

I'm having a hell of a time getting consistent results with acrylic, resin, acrylister, etc blanks.

First, I cannot drill a sleek clean hole to save my life. I think part of the problem is my pen press has a little give and that is where the trouble starts. I'm going to try PSI's blank chuck. I figure I have more control and speed manipulation on the lathe, so I'm going to give that a try.

So, I think I'll have that solved.

The next thing I can't figure out is how to paint the tube and the blanks. I have had minimal luck reverse painting with a pipe cleaner. I really don't know a good way to paint the tubes without streaking.

So, does anyone have any tips and tricks to help me along? Really, any advice at all would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Drstrangefart]

Reverse paint: Just use a Q-tip! Do a couple of coats, slide the tube in and back out a few times with the paint still wet. It the blank is translucent enough to actually show streaks, you'll know when you have it right. Then let it completely dry before you do glue-up. With the drilling, acrylics you really wanna drop water in the hole as you drill to prevent overheating. With THAT many materials getting ragged holes, I would reccommend investing in a few new drill bits. The long fluted ones give me the best results on the widest range of materials.

 

[D.Oliver]

For painting I use a q-tip and a some acrylic paint. Sometimes it takes two coats. I usually let it set overnight to make sure the paint is dry. I paint both the inside of the blank and the brass tube. I have heard of others using spay paint though.

 

[Xander]

For reverse painting I use Testors enamel paint and cheap throw away "epoxy" brushes. They come in 2 sizes(use the smaller 3/8") and cost all of $0.20, if that. Get em from hobby store or big box stores like Lowes, Home Depot.

As for technique, dip brush in paint, stick brush into hole, twist and pull out. Do the same from other end. Let dry overnight, glue tube in (I use epoxy).

 

[sbarton22]

With THAT many materials getting ragged holes, I would reccommend investing in a few new drill bits. .

I wouldn't say "that many". I'm really just referencing plastics in general.

The q-tip is a decent idea. Pretty much the same as my pipe cleaner idea, but maybe a bit more focused.

I have used lubricant on the last couple I have tried and the bit didn't get anywhere near as hot. Maybe water is a better idea so no residue is left on the blank.

 

[sbarton22]

For reverse painting I use Testors enamel paint and cheap throw away "epoxy" brushes. They come in 2 sizes(use the smaller 3/8") and cost all of $0.20, if that. Get em from hobby store or big box stores like Lowes, Home Depot.

Actually, that was the brush I used. It was super streaky. I guess the obvious thing to do was apply a second coat.

 

[Joe Burns]

I have good results with the PSI blank chuck. I no longer use a drill press to drill my blanks. Use sharp bits and good slow to keep heat down. If it gets too hot you may crack the blank.

I use testors spray paint with good results.

Joe

 

[sbarton22]

For painting I use a q-tip and a some acrylic paint. Sometimes it takes two coats. I usually let it set overnight to make sure the paint is dry. I paint both the inside of the blank and the brass tube. I have heard of others using spay paint though.

I also used acrylic paint. I was thinking of diluting it and using the airbrush to spray it on.

Do you use a q-tip to paint the tube as well?

 

[ed4copies]

I'm having a hell of a time getting consistent results with acrylic, resin, acrylister, etc blanks.

First, I cannot drill a sleek clean hole to save my life. I think part of the problem is my pen press has a little give and that is where the trouble starts. I'm going to try PSI's blank chuck. I figure I have more control and speed manipulation on the lathe, so I'm going to give that a try.

So, I think I'll have that solved.

The next thing I can't figure out is how to paint the tube and the blanks. I have had minimal luck reverse painting with a pipe cleaner. I really don't know a good way to paint the tubes without streaking.

So, does anyone have any tips and tricks to help me along? Really, any advice at all would be greatly appreciated.

Getting a "sleek clean hole" and "paint without streaking" is NOT uniformly done with all the materials you cite.

Pick a plastic--ONE of the several you mention. Then, decide how streak-free you need it to be, to satisfy YOUR demands. IF you want glass clear from a nearly translucent blank, there is much more to it than just making a nice looking blank from a blank that shows a little tube here and there.

You can't hit a moving target until you know how to aim. So, I SUGGEST starting with Acrylic Acetate type blanks--solve your drilling problem and then move on to refining painting in translucent media.

Hope I read your request right---

Ed

 

[dexter0606]

With THAT many materials getting ragged holes, I would reccommend investing in a few new drill bits. .

I wouldn't say "that many". I'm really just referencing plastics in general.

The q-tip is a decent idea. Pretty much the same as my pipe cleaner idea, but maybe a bit more focused.

I have used lubricant on the last couple I have tried and the bit didn't get anywhere near as hot. Maybe water is a better idea so no residue is left on the blank.

The lubricant may be streaking your paint. Just use water

 

[D.Oliver]

For painting I use a q-tip and a some acrylic paint. Sometimes it takes two coats. I usually let it set overnight to make sure the paint is dry. I paint both the inside of the blank and the brass tube. I have heard of others using spay paint though.

I also used acrylic paint. I was thinking of diluting it and using the airbrush to spray it on.

Do you use a q-tip to paint the tube as well?

Yep. I do the insides of the blanks first and then the tubes. I usually don't worry about the streaking too much unless my blank is really translucent. Then I might break out an actual paint brush to paint the tubes with.

 

[1080Wayne]

A good quality artists brush for acrylics will probably work best for painting the hole in the blank . Of course , you do have to wash it after each use .

 

[Mike8850]

I only use spray paint. A quick shot in each end then let it set over night.
Mike

 

[GoatRider]

When I paint acrylic on plastic, I always mix in about 25% FolkArt ® Mediums - Glass & Tile Medium, 2 oz. | Plaid Enterprises
It basically turns any color into a primer, so it sticks better. You can get it at just about any craft store, like JoAnne's or Michael's.

 

[sbarton22]

Getting a "sleek clean hole" and "paint without streaking" is NOT uniformly done with all the materials you cite.

Pick a plastic--ONE of the several you mention. Then, decide how streak-free you need it to be, to satisfy YOUR demands. IF you want glass clear from a nearly translucent blank, there is much more to it than just making a nice looking blank from a blank that shows a little tube here and there.

You can't hit a moving target until you know how to aim. So, I SUGGEST starting with Acrylic Acetate type blanks--solve your drilling problem and then move on to refining painting in translucent media.

Hope I read your request right---

Ed

Ok, this is very interesting. And pardon my ignorance here...

1) What is this type of blank?
2) why do you suggest this one to start?

I like the idea of baby stepping the solution. I think you are understanding my questions correctly and offer a good path. Help me to understand your suggestion and I think I'll be in business!

 

[sbarton22]

When I paint acrylic on plastic, I always mix in about 25% FolkArt ® Mediums - Glass & Tile Medium, 2 oz. | Plaid Enterprises
It basically turns any color into a primer, so it sticks better. You can get it at just about any craft store, like JoAnne's or Michael's.

Does this make the paint thinner or thicker? Just curious.

 

[Drstrangefart]

Getting a "sleek clean hole" and "paint without streaking" is NOT uniformly done with all the materials you cite.

Pick a plastic--ONE of the several you mention. Then, decide how streak-free you need it to be, to satisfy YOUR demands. IF you want glass clear from a nearly translucent blank, there is much more to it than just making a nice looking blank from a blank that shows a little tube here and there.

You can't hit a moving target until you know how to aim. So, I SUGGEST starting with Acrylic Acetate type blanks--solve your drilling problem and then move on to refining painting in translucent media.

Hope I read your request right---

Ed

Ok, this is very interesting. And pardon my ignorance here...

1) What is this type of blank?
2) why do you suggest this one to start?

I like the idea of baby stepping the solution. I think you are understanding my questions correctly and offer a good path. Help me to understand your suggestion and I think I'll be in business!

The blank type is reguar acrylic if I read right. The best reason I could think to start there, is because you already know you need to do some work there and it's a consistent material. PR blanks can have brittle spots, bubbles, stuff like that. Alumilite is a little better, but still a little less predictable. If you can drill and turn acrylic properly, you can turn PR and Alumilite. Learning acrylic taught me enough to handle almost everything else I've thrown on the lathe with a few exceptions.

 

[GoatRider]

When I paint acrylic on plastic, I always mix in about 25% FolkArt ® Mediums - Glass & Tile Medium, 2 oz. | Plaid Enterprises
It basically turns any color into a primer, so it sticks better. You can get it at just about any craft store, like JoAnne's or Michael's.

Does this make the paint thinner or thicker? Just curious.

Same consistency, but it does make it a little bit translucent, so you may need 2 coats. The second coat wouldn't need the G&T medium.

 

[moke]

When I do white or cream colored blanks, I paint the inside of the blank, spray paint the tube with colored primer and mix white or cream testors enamel into the epoxy. I was using a rat-tail fail to "clean" up the inside of the blank after drilling, but I found that it was, ever so slightly widening the opening, which was an issue to kits that had thin walls. Someone suggested using gun bore cleaning brushes...which work awesome. I actually use it after drilling while the lathe is still spinning.

I drill on the lathe, with an ever so slightly bigger bit...this allows for all that paint inside. The chuck I use is the PSI blank holder as mentioned earlier. I looked at that several times thinking it must be cheap and a waste of money....I could not have been more wrong. I have never had good luck with round blanks on it though. I use a one-way chuck for round blanks, now PSI has a 89.00 chuck similar to a one-way.
As for drilling, get yourself a fractional caliper and a full set of bits, and forget the "kit" drill bits, measure and find a bit a few thousands up from the recommended size and use it.

This is just my method that I have found that works good for me, there are so many great penmakers on here that have different methods. In threads like this some of those methods come out and everyone benefits!

 

[Leatherman1998]

I put my tubes on the bushings then turn the lathe on the slowest speed and hold a sign marker up to the tube. Then I let them dry while I drill the blank. This has worked a long time and you can use the same drill bit meant for the kit.

 

[ed4copies]

Getting a "sleek clean hole" and "paint without streaking" is NOT uniformly done with all the materials you cite.

Pick a plastic--ONE of the several you mention. Then, decide how streak-free you need it to be, to satisfy YOUR demands. IF you want glass clear from a nearly translucent blank, there is much more to it than just making a nice looking blank from a blank that shows a little tube here and there.

You can't hit a moving target until you know how to aim. So, I SUGGEST starting with Acrylic Acetate type blanks--solve your drilling problem and then move on to refining painting in translucent media.

Hope I read your request right---

Ed

Ok, this is very interesting. And pardon my ignorance here...

1) What is this type of blank?
2) why do you suggest this one to start?

I like the idea of baby stepping the solution. I think you are understanding my questions correctly and offer a good path. Help me to understand your suggestion and I think I'll be in business!

The blank type is reguar acrylic if I read right. The best reason I could think to start there, is because you already know you need to do some work there and it's a consistent material. PR blanks can have brittle spots, bubbles, stuff like that. Alumilite is a little better, but still a little less predictable. If you can drill and turn acrylic properly, you can turn PR and Alumilite. Learning acrylic taught me enough to handle almost everything else I've thrown on the lathe with a few exceptions.

"Commercial acrylic" is both consistent and somewhat forgiving. Actually, IN MY OPINION!!! being able to turn AA does NOT mean you can turn all plastics. BUT, if you can turn AA, you will gain the confidence and experience to hear and feel the "tragedies" just before they happen (on all materials). Some success with AA means you will know the answer to SOME of the problems that develop with all resins. It gives you a BASE of knowledge from which to build.

Biggest reason to use AA is the consistency, as was suggested above.