maple burl?

[emccarthy]

Today, when showing off my first pen at work, I was asked if I could make one for someone. Of course, I said I could, but they want me to make it out of some maple burl they've had. I was told it had been sitting out for 3 years, but I'm afraid that it'll still be somewhat wet(hopefully no rot). Also, they want it finished in linseed oil only, so they can buff it up with more oil as they see fit. Seeing as it won't be MY pen, I don't really have a problem with the finish, but what sort of pitfalls can I run into trying to turn this wood? Also, if the burl is a bit on the wet side, is there a way I can quickly(days, not years) dry it out? He's supposed to get me the wood tomorrow, and needs it before May(presumably, sooner is better), as it's to be gifted to his wife.

Thanks in advance

 

[jskeen]

a couple of suggestions. If the burl is wet, you can cut your blank a little oversize (to allow for a little warpage) and dry it either in a very low temp toaster oven, or in short bursts in a microwave (using the wife's good one in the kitchen might not be the best choice). If the buyer want's to specify a linseed oil finish, thats up to him. Nothing says that you can't stabilize the blank after you get it close to final size with several liberal applications of thin ca. then just sand to final size and to whatever grit finish you prefer, then apply the oil. Be sure to use boiled linseed oil, the non boiled variety takes forever to dry.

 

[emccarthy]

now, when you say 'stabilize', what exactly do you mean? I assume it's some process to ensure the wood doesn't split?

 

[babyblues]

now, when you say 'stabilize', what exactly do you mean? I assume it's some process to ensure the wood doesn't split?

All of the stabilized blanks that you can purchase from say, Arizonasilhouette as an example, have been impregnated with resin. That makes them virtually impervious to changes in temperature and humidity. It does significantly increase the strength of most woods, especially burls, but it doesn't mean it can't split either while drilling or turning. Trust me on that You can achieve a similar result by saturating a blank with thin CA glue after you've turned it round. The thin CA will soak into the wood and act much like the resins in commercially stabilized wood.

Regarding the maple burl, you should be OK just cutting some of it up into blanks and putting them in a paper bag for a few weeks. If it's punky, there are people here on the forum who offer stabilization services at a fair price. I think exoticblanks.com offers that.