Mandrels for Beall Chuck & Collets

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

gerryr

Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2005
Messages
5,353
Location
Billings, MT, USA.
The only places to get the "B" mandrel shafts are Berea resellers or direct from Berea. I have made a lot of pens using the cheapo Woodcraft mandrel shaft. The last "A" shaft I bought came from CSUSA because I was ordering a bunch of kits anyway.

I think the mandrel shafts are the same, only the MT adapter is different. If you're using a collet chuck, you only need the shaft, not the entire mandrel.
 

jdmyers4

Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2006
Messages
279
Location
14127 129th Ave NE; Kirkland, WA 98034
Wouldn't a non-threaded shaft at one end, with a threaded shaft at the other for the kurl nut work better? The mandrels I have are threaded at both ends. A threaded end in the collet doesn't seem to fit as well as if it were a smooth shafted end. It seems like I read on this forum that people were suggesting a smooth shafted end to fit into the Beall collet.

John
 

gerryr

Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2005
Messages
5,353
Location
Billings, MT, USA.
If you using a collect chuck, you need to put the mandrel shaft in the collet far enough that it is solidly gripping the non-threaded area. I only turn one barrel at a time so I usually only have about 3-4" of shaft sticking out of the collet. I switch to a regular mandrel for finishing.
 

wdcav1952

Activities Manager Emeritus
Joined
Mar 18, 2004
Messages
8,955
Location
Montgomery, Pennsylvania, USA.
If you want to use a full length mandrel, here are links to both A and B mandrels. You definitely want the collet grasping non-threaded metal.

http://www.beartoothwoods.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=35_42&products_id=115

http://www.beartoothwoods.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=35_42&products_id=116

FWIW,
 

jjenk02

Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2006
Messages
1,264
Location
Mary Esther, Florida, USA.
Originally posted by gerryr
<br />If you using a collect chuck, you need to put the mandrel shaft in the collet far enough that it is solidly gripping the non-threaded area. I only turn one barrel at a time so I usually only have about 3-4" of shaft sticking out of the collet. I switch to a regular mandrel for finishing.

Gerry, I curious as to why you would only turn one barrel at a time, what is the logic behind it?[?]
 

ctEaglesc

Passed Away Jul 4, 2008
In Memoriam
Joined
Jul 5, 2004
Messages
3,238
Location
Camden, S.C., USA.
Because you get to set it up twice you get to enjoy turning it longer.
Kind of like taking the top of an oreo cookie and eating both parts separately.
 

BRobbins629

Passed Away Dec 28, 2021
In Memoriam
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
4,037
Location
Richmond, VA, USA.
Why are the "precision" mandrel shafts $8.00 and the "high precision" mandrel shafts $5.00 at Bear Tooth Woods? See link above. Anyone know the difference?
 

wdcav1952

Activities Manager Emeritus
Joined
Mar 18, 2004
Messages
8,955
Location
Montgomery, Pennsylvania, USA.
Originally posted by BRobbins629
<br />Why are the "precision" mandrel shafts $8.00 and the "high precision" mandrel shafts $5.00 at Bear Tooth Woods? See link above. Anyone know the difference?

The "precision" mandrels are threaded at both ends. Apparently the threading procedure raises the price.
 

Randy_

Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2004
Messages
5,701
Location
Dallas suburb, Texas, USA.
The precision mandrels are threaded on both ends and have flats milled on one end to facilitate tightening and loosening from the arbor. The high precision mandrels are threaded at only one end and have no milled flats.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom