M3 Black and Gold problem/Question

[keithbyrd]

I turned an M3 Black Gold blank last night. Didn't seem to have any trouble, Turned with carbide cutter, sanded 400, 600, 800 and cross sanded. Use the part a and part 5 polishes and man it looked good! Assempled the Triton FP components on it - put it under my magnifying work light to confirm fit/finish etc and was horrified. Both pieces of the blank are covered with random scratches/chips. This didn't happen from poor handling or bumping or dropping. They are scattered all around the blank.
Any idea what happened? I hate losing s $30 blank!:frown: And don't want to do this twice!

 

[NYWoodturner]

Keith - Sounds to me like you had residual grit on the blank from the sanding process?
I have turned about a dozen M3s and never had that problem. If you bought the blanks directly from them, I know they will replace the blank if you mail that one back/ Not sure if that offer carries through if you bought it through someone else. Doesn't hurt to ask though.
Scott
FAQs

 

[keithbyrd]

Keith - Sounds to me like you had residual grit on the blank from the sanding process?
I have turned about a dozen M3s and never had that problem. If you bought the blanks directly from them, I know they will replace the blank if you mail that one back/ Not sure if that offer carries through if you bought it through someone else. Doesn't hurt to ask though.
Scott
FAQs

Thanks Scott. I wiped the blank off with a micro fiber and blew it with my air compressor before I polished it. I will try to get a picture that shows it - but if sanding dust could do that it would have had to been some BIG dust!

 

[Tim'sTurnings]

I would think using a carbide scraper could leave some chip outs. I tried it once and won't do it again. I had a lot of tiny chip outs and ruined the blank.

 

[crabcreekind]

Sometimes, the sandpaper you are using is the problem. Make sure you have good 300,400,and 600. They need to cut well. Also, if you have had your micro mesh for over 100 pens, replace it! When i finally replaced mine, i noticed more of the scratches you are describing went away. I have never done m3, but this has happened to me with acrylics. Hope this helps

 

[Bowl Slinger]

I have turned about a dozen M3 blanks and turned a Damascus Steel M3 blank today. Are you sanding wet or dry? If you are sanding dry the brass in your blank clogs the pores in the sand paper and causes scratches in the acrylic. I have learned that it is much more efficient to wet sand the M3s. Even though the manufacture states that you do not need to MM the blank before polishing, I always do. It saves time when you go to use the polishing compound.

 

[keithbyrd]

I use the wood chuck pen pro and have had no problems with things chipping in the past. This was the first of this blank I've done. As I sanded and polished it I didn't notice anything wrong - going to have to start looking at things with the magnifying light before I assemble. I am thinking I must have been too agggressive in my final cuts!

I would think using a carbide scraper could leave some chip outs. I tried it once and won't do it again. I had a lot of tiny chip outs and ruined the blank.

 

[keithbyrd]

I have thought about this - I dry saned it through 800 and did not use the MM. If the sanding was causing the scratches they would be stright lines around the turning. These are varied scattered going in all directions. More like chip outs than scratches. I thought I was taking light cuts but I must have still been too aggressive. I have tried to figure out how to blame the blank but keeping coming back to me!

I have turned about a dozen M3 blanks and turned a Damascus Steel M3 blank today. Are you sanding wet or dry? If you are sanding dry the brass in your blank clogs the pores in the sand paper and causes scratches in the acrylic. I have learned that it is much more efficient to wet sand the M3s. Even though the manufacture states that you do not need to MM the blank before polishing, I always do. It saves time when you go to use the polishing compound.

 

[EricJS]

Sometimes, the sandpaper you are using is the problem. Make sure you have good 300,400,and 600. They need to cut well. Also, if you have had your micro mesh for over 100 pens, replace it! When i finally replaced mine, i noticed more of the scratches you are describing went away. I have never done m3, but this has happened to me with acrylics. Hope this helps

Excellent advice. The best finishes I've achieved came after I threw out my first set of micromesh pads and opened up a new set. I had not been able to sand out all the scratches & imperfections.:wink:

 

[keithbyrd]

I now have a picture of the blank that I tried to describe. Please look at the picture - note the deep and random scratches and help me figure out what happened!! I have backed off doing any more ofthese until I can figure out what happened!
Thanks for your help
Keith

I turned an M3 Black Gold blank last night. Didn't seem to have any trouble, Turned with carbide cutter, sanded 400, 600, 800 and cross sanded. Use the part a and part 5 polishes and man it looked good! Assempled the Triton FP components on it - put it under my magnifying work light to confirm fit/finish etc and was horrified. Both pieces of the blank are covered with random scratches/chips. This didn't happen from poor handling or bumping or dropping. They are scattered all around the blank.
Any idea what happened? I hate losing s $30 blank!:frown: And don't want to do this twice!

 

[GoodTurns]

M3 blanks have specific polishing instructions that require the "A" and "B" polishes. IIRC, turn to dimension, 400 sand if needed, then use the polishes. never had an issue with htese and I have made bunches.

 

[dbledsoe]

Those don't look like scratches to me, they look like gouges or voids. I might suspect the blank was defective. I think it would be worth getting an opinion from the M3 folks.

 

[randbcrafts]

From what I can see, I think this looks like a problem with the blank. The marks are only in the gold and from what I can tell in the picture they appear to be silver in color? I returned 20 or so blanks several months ago to the manufacturer because they had pits in the gold. I'm not sure if you got the blank from me or not. But,you can either go back to the company you purchased it from and ask for a replacement, go directly to the manufacturer at www.metalpenblanks.com and ask for a replacement, or just shoot me a PM and I will be glad to help you get a replacement.

 

[nativewooder]

I think you're talking yourself into looking in the mirror. It's got to be you or the manufacturer. If you followed the instructions, then it's the manufacturer.:wink:

 

[Bowl Slinger]

If you are referring to the silver looking inclusions in the brass, I going to say that either the blank had the problem from the get go or you created too much heat build up when sanding or polishing and caused a blowout in the metal. Its odd that it only happened in the center of each metallic pocket. Have you contacted the manufacture to seek their advise?

 

[keithbyrd]

Yep - I followed them precisely! I wanted to get other opinions and make sure I wasn't the problem before I went back to the supplier.

 

[bitshird]

Keith I've not seen any chip out that looks like that, that almost looks like voids in the material. what I find odd is the shapes of the bad areas, had it been from a dull insert, the tear outs would have been more like very small round, or oval pockets, DAMHIKT. but I do hope that it wasn't caused by the Woodchuck.

 

[keithbyrd]

Outstanding customer service! The supplier has been followinf this thread too and is sending a replacmeent blank. I love the vendors/suppliers on this website - they really go out of their way.