Lump problem when I CA??

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RegisG

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Joined
Dec 15, 2016
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110
Location
Mount Juliet, Tn
I'm progressing along pretty good in but, now have a problem with my CA. When I apply, and after 2 or 3 coats, I all of a sudden find a CA lump somewhere. Usually towards one end or the other. Have to sand off and start again. Any tips? I did just start using the spray to dry quickly where I used to wait 5-10 minutes between coats.

Appreciate any tips.
Regis
 
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OklaTurner

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Joined
Dec 12, 2016
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44
Location
Edmond, Okla
I'm progressing along pretty good in but, now have a problem with my CA. When I apply, and after 2 or 3 coats, I all of a sudden find a CA lump somewhere. Usually towards one end or the other. Have to sand off and start again. Any tips? I did just start using the spray to dry quickly where I used to wait 5-10 minutes between coats.

Appreciate any tips.
Regis

I had this problem over the weekend. I was turning a pen for my son using his design. The bottom section of the slimline had four "humps" in it. The top section was plain with a slight curve to the profile. The only place the CA zits appeared was on each end of each hump.

After taking a break to think about it I realized that my turning speed was probably too fast. When I applied the CA it would pool in the valley of each hump and turning at full speed slung the CA out of the valley and formed little zits on the hump. I reduced my speed to the slowest setting and tried again and have not had a problem with CA zits.

Hope that helps some.

Micah
 

magpens

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Joined
Feb 2, 2011
Messages
15,912
Location
Canada
Small lumps, bumps, and streaks on the surface are normal when you are applying CA.
I found this when I was starting to use CA and I got really annoyed.

I got help from an experienced turner.

You need to ignore the lumps and bumps initially until you have applied a fair thickness of CA (5+ coats).

Then sand fairly severely to remove the surface defects but do not sand off all the CA.
Just enough until the whole surface is free from lumps, bumps, streaks AND shiny spots. I found that is key.

I use 180 grit and 240 grit to get rid of the surface bumps AND get rid of the shiny spots.

While I am doing this, I turn the chuck by hand and keep the sanding motion lengthwise.

I do not sand with the lathe on because that leaves marks going around the blank which are hard to remove.

The process of getting rid of the surface bumps AND the shiny spots takes quite a while but you eventually get quicker at it.

You have to constantly inspect the surface with good lighting and you have to get rid of the shiny spots.

I sand with finer and finer grits after the surface is starting to get smooth.

Hope this helps you work your way through the process.
 
Last edited:

tomas

Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
482
Location
Rio Rancho, NM
I think you may be applying the next coat too soon. The accelerator works well, but need a few seconds to work. When I have this situation, I use PenMaster with a squarish carbide cutter and very lightly turn down the offending bump/roughness, etc. Then I continue on with the rest of the CA coats. It is also possible that you may be keeping the applicator towel on the blank too long. This will cause the CA to clump, as well.

Tomas
 

Skie_M

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Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
2,737
Location
Lawton, Ok
I never use accelerator. I just use the Harbor Freight superglue ... but I do also use a small amount of BLO as a pre-applicant. It comes from using some Minwax Stain'n'Seal (natural amber color)... there is a little BLO in it that will react with the first layer of CA, polymerizing it and smoothing it, I guess. That first layer cures pretty fast, because the reaction kind of acts like an accelerator. Application speed is ALWAYS the slowest your lathe can spin ... YOU DO NOT WANT THIS STUFF GETTING FLUNG OFF IN YOUR FACE!

For a full coat, I put a small pool on my applicator, applied along the length of the blank I am working on for under 3 seconds ... I usually have time to go the length of the blank three times (once per second) and then I chuck the applicator. I use this timeframe for everything other than the first coat, unless I'm doing detail work with a lot of little coves and beads, ect ...

My applicator used to be white paper towels, but I found that those aren't entirely lint free for this purpose, and they absorb CA very fast. My current applicator is blue shop towels from the auto parts store. I take one full sheet, and fold it 4 times in the same direction to create a thin flat pad. I then take a sharp pair of scissors and cut it in approximately 3/4" lengths for easy handling and use ... these are pretty much lint free and fairly cheap. They also absorb CA, but not quite as fast, and they are a good deal stronger than the white paper towels. I also use these same applicator pads (fresh pads, of course!) for applying my Meguair's Plast-X polish and Turtle Wax Hard Surface, for the final touches.

The trick to not getting the lumps and bumps is actually more towards not trying to layer too much on at once. I generally use a small pool (under 1/2" wide on the applicator) and spread that over the blank surface 3 times. This leaves a very thin layer that won't move around ... if you are doing detail work, use even LESS and focus more on specific areas, spot coating everything evenly till you can coat the entire surface in single passes.

I like to let it cure naturally, and I've never had a problem with the "white frosting" or hazing effect ... also haven't ever had any issues with "crazing" (the micro cracks that appear on the surface sometimes?). I'm sure I'll eventually see these issues rear their ugly heads, but for now I'm lucky, I guess.



Many people here will tell you that there are other alternative applicators you can use for applying CA ... the method outlined here works well for me, but I encourage you to try it as well as their methods!

Some people pick up craft foam at Hobby Lobby and other arts and craft places, cut it into little applicator pads ... the CA doesn't soak into these nearly as fast, so you can get by with using MUCH LESS superglue per application. Another similar method, that's even cheaper, is to use the TINY little parts bags from your pen kits. Just pop the bag over a finger and use it just like that ... you can even spin the bag round your finger and use the reverse before you toss it!

Keep in mind that both of these methods DO NOT soak up excess CA, and it'll end up on your blank ... this is good if you want to build up a thick layer fast, but not quite so good for making thin layers without a lot of excess that shows up as lumps and bumps. If you keep the application amount very low, these methods could work great for you! These latter methods also work best with the thicker types of CA, as more of it ends up on the blank rather than soaked into your applicator.
 

RegisG

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2016
Messages
110
Location
Mount Juliet, Tn
I'm progressing along pretty good in but, now have a problem with my CA. When I apply, and after 2 or 3 coats, I all of a sudden find a CA lump somewhere. Usually towards one end or the other. Have to sand off and start again. Any tips? I did just start using the spray to dry quickly where I used to wait 5-10 minutes between coats.

Appreciate any tips.
Regis

I had this problem over the weekend. I was turning a pen for my son using his design. The bottom section of the slimline had four "humps" in it. The top section was plain with a slight curve to the profile. The only place the CA zits appeared was on each end of each hump.

After taking a break to think about it I realized that my turning speed was probably too fast. When I applied the CA it would pool in the valley of each hump and turning at full speed slung the CA out of the valley and formed little zits on the hump. I reduced my speed to the slowest setting and tried again and have not had a problem with CA zits.

Hope that helps some.

Micah

Micah, You hit the nail on the head for the initial large lumps. I sped the lathe up to about 700rpm because I "thought" the accelerator spray would cover quickly...WRONG. Slowed down to about 180rpm and no more large clumps.
Thank you,
Regis
 

Skie_M

Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
2,737
Location
Lawton, Ok
Oh ... got those pencil kits today in the mail ... neighbor had them since saturday. I swear, the USPS is getting weird on me again.


I've got work tonight (7PM to 7AM), but the next few days I have off ... still deciding on what I wanna make the pencils with. Leaning towards some Massacar Ebony and some Purpleheart, but I'm thinking about some stone inlay embellishment as well ...


Just wanted to let you know that they got here alright, and that I'll be posting some pictures soon on how they turn out! :)
 

RegisG

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2016
Messages
110
Location
Mount Juliet, Tn
I never use accelerator. I just use the Harbor Freight superglue ... but I do also use a small amount of BLO as a pre-applicant. It comes from using some Minwax Stain'n'Seal (natural amber color)... there is a little BLO in it that will react with the first layer of CA, polymerizing it and smoothing it, I guess. That first layer cures pretty fast, because the reaction kind of acts like an accelerator. Application speed is ALWAYS the slowest your lathe can spin ... YOU DO NOT WANT THIS STUFF GETTING FLUNG OFF IN YOUR FACE!

For a full coat, I put a small pool on my applicator, applied along the length of the blank I am working on for under 3 seconds ... I usually have time to go the length of the blank three times (once per second) and then I chuck the applicator. I use this timeframe for everything other than the first coat, unless I'm doing detail work with a lot of little coves and beads, ect ...

My applicator used to be white paper towels, but I found that those aren't entirely lint free for this purpose, and they absorb CA very fast. My current applicator is blue shop towels from the auto parts store. I take one full sheet, and fold it 4 times in the same direction to create a thin flat pad. I then take a sharp pair of scissors and cut it in approximately 3/4" lengths for easy handling and use ... these are pretty much lint free and fairly cheap. They also absorb CA, but not quite as fast, and they are a good deal stronger than the white paper towels. I also use these same applicator pads (fresh pads, of course!) for applying my Meguair's Plast-X polish and Turtle Wax Hard Surface, for the final touches.

The trick to not getting the lumps and bumps is actually more towards not trying to layer too much on at once. I generally use a small pool (under 1/2" wide on the applicator) and spread that over the blank surface 3 times. This leaves a very thin layer that won't move around ... if you are doing detail work, use even LESS and focus more on specific areas, spot coating everything evenly till you can coat the entire surface in single passes.

I like to let it cure naturally, and I've never had a problem with the "white frosting" or hazing effect ... also haven't ever had any issues with "crazing" (the micro cracks that appear on the surface sometimes?). I'm sure I'll eventually see these issues rear their ugly heads, but for now I'm lucky, I guess.



Many people here will tell you that there are other alternative applicators you can use for applying CA ... the method outlined here works well for me, but I encourage you to try it as well as their methods!

Some people pick up craft foam at Hobby Lobby and other arts and craft places, cut it into little applicator pads ... the CA doesn't soak into these nearly as fast, so you can get by with using MUCH LESS superglue per application. Another similar method, that's even cheaper, is to use the TINY little parts bags from your pen kits. Just pop the bag over a finger and use it just like that ... you can even spin the bag round your finger and use the reverse before you toss it!

Keep in mind that both of these methods DO NOT soak up excess CA, and it'll end up on your blank ... this is good if you want to build up a thick layer fast, but not quite so good for making thin layers without a lot of excess that shows up as lumps and bumps. If you keep the application amount very low, these methods could work great for you! These latter methods also work best with the thicker types of CA, as more of it ends up on the blank rather than soaked into your applicator.

Skie,
Micah fixed my original problem of big lumps but, am still getting smaller ones and like rough surface. I can sand them off quickly with 1000 grit so they are not too bad. I am using the blue shop towels like you do but, simply tear off couple inch corner and fold. I'm going to try your 3 second process too.

Thanks everyone for all the tips.....trying them all except carbide tip as I don't have any.
Regis
 

TonyL

Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
8,915
Location
Georgia
You can also try using less glue so that it doesn't accumulate at the ends by producing that radial band of glue.
 
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