Loose sierra 'nib'

[maxwell_smart007]

I've had this same Sierra pen returned about six times now - it's not a good situation, to be sure!

I've replaced the entire set of components a few times...

Now the problem is that the nib end of the Sierra is loose - it moves about an eighth of an inch, but doesn't fall out. (nib meaning pointy end of pen - it's a parker ballpoint, as all Sierra's are, I think)...

Can I disassemble the kit and put some glue or something in there? Anyone encountered this?

Andrew

 

[mredburn]

I would use epoxy, C/A may affect the finish on the parts as it off gasses.

 

[Justturnin]

I would use a drop of red loctite to hold it on.

 

[OKLAHOMAN]

As Chris said!!!! Red Locktite just a small drop.

 

[maxwell_smart007]

Thanks guys - so should I press the nib out, or just try and put the loctite on without totally dissassembling

 

[OKLAHOMAN]

For safty take it out make sure its clean, spread the drop of red loctite around th.e tendon and repress in. Might want to have a hand clamp hold it overnight.

 

[Tim'sTurnings]

Totally agree with red loctite. Also agree on taking it apart, cleaning it and pressing it in and leave it clamped. Should take care of the problem, for sure.

 

[toddlajoie]

Yes, you can knock the nib section appart with a transfer punch and hammer just like disassembling any pen. Inside you will find that the nib is actually pressed into a brass tube (not sure, but pretty close to a 7mm) and that the nib has a small shoulder that the black enamel piece fits over that is too large to be pressed into the tube. The other end of the tube is pressed into the centerband. You may find that the brass tube could be loose on either the nib or the centerband, so you may want to get some locktite in both ends (obviously the problem end is the one that is more likely to come appart when you disassemble it...) If you find that there is a problem with the tube being too loose, you may need to cut a new one...

 

[PenMan1]

Andrew:
I'm a big proponent of Red Loctite!

BUT, what you are describing is a manufacturing defect that I found in the Sierra and Sierra Elegent Beauty a while back. The red Loctite will not stop the wobble! 30 minute epoxy will make it stable, BUT BE SURE TO CLAMP IT STRAIGHT AND ALLOW IT TO DRY OVERNIGHT. If you don't get the nib clamped exactly straight, it'll write goofy.

FWIW: I got a whole bag (20?) with this issue. ADDITIONALLY, each one of these could press in the top with just finger pressure, which made the top and clip so loose that the pen would "pop apart" when twisted.

Good luck!

 

[gbpens]

Toddis right. The "nib" is a multiple part assembly though it does not look like one untill it comes loose. Dismantle the parts, use a small drop of whatever adhesive you wish, wipe half of it off and reassemble the parts being careful not to get glue on the outside. Lay the piece aside for awhile before assembling with the remainder of the pen.

 

[Chasper]

I've had a few dozen Sierras returned with the problem you describe. They separate between the metal finger hold section and the nib, as also on the opposite end of the finger hold section and the band. When they fit snug but won't stay in place I use thick CA, when they wobble and aren't snug I use epoxy. I have some epoxy in the repair kit I take to shows, I've fixed several of them that I hadn't sold to begin with.

 

[flyitfast]

I'm confused!!
Are we talking about bandaids or addressing a problem?
Maybe this is a matter for the kit manufacturers?????
I've had the same problem and "corrected" the problem as many of you have - with loctite or CA.
How do we correct the "problem"?
gordon

 

[arioux]

I found the best fix to all my Sierra problems, I stop making them. For me it is unacceptable, wih al the problem that are reported here, with all the Sierra reseller (and yes, the Berea kit is no better so it's not an "made in China" issue )that are here on a regular basis and are aware of this situation that this kit is still available as it is. Takes time to buid a reputation as a pen maker, very easy to loose it. For me i can't imagine having to put all kinf of fixes glue, locktite or whatever to make a pen work properly. Kinf of remind me of the Churchill coupler problem. Took over a year for the manufacturer to change the coupler. Meanwhile we where told that we coul'dnt press a pen properly ) The problem is that turners are still choosing to make it and apply fixes. Manufacturers sells them so nothing will change. I guess they are about to write in the instructions "put CA glue, epoxy or locktite on the assembly" this way it willl solve their problem and make us responsible to fix the kit design flaw or malfunction . But a glue fix is still just a glue fix and will fail over time and usage. Sorry for the long brag, this subject just recall a lot of bad experiences . If it's innapropriate, please moderator just delete it.

 

[Haynie]

How do we correct the "problem"?
gordon

Get a big manufacturer to care what you think. Which is pretty hard to do.
It has to start with the retailer. You don't buy enough product to make an impression. Smitty, Oklahoman, and Ed put together might but those of us who just make pens have no chance. Get a bunch of people to write and complain to the retailers. When the retailers realize they will be losing money they might get the manufacturer to take notice. (typred reviews on websites work as this stops folks from buying and gets the retailer to take notice.)

 

[ed4copies]

Actually, I spent the better part of an hour on the phone with Berea today. This was part of what we discussed. There are several aspects to the question.

First, you need to know who manufactured your pens. All Berea kits (even those sold by WoodCraft) come in individually labeled bags. So, if it is indeed a Berea kit, it is obvious.

Berea has redesigned the pen, several years ago. So, if the pen came from very old stock, this was a problem that has been solved.

Of course, Rizheng also makes a "Sierra", which comes in bags of 25 (Berea comes in ten packs). Seems to correlate with some of the statements above.

In short, since Exotics has only existed since 2008, our customers should not have problems. I have replaced ONE sierra and the original purchaser kindly returned the defective pen to me. We sent him a new "front end" since these are easily removed and replaced. I make the same offer to anyone who has purchased a sierra (or any other pen components) from us. Berea also offers this remedy, if you purchased from them. They have no way of knowing if any of their resellers are selling other manufacturers without making that clear to their customers.

If it "don't work", we will replace it. We would like the "don't work" one returned so we can identify the problems and work with Berea to remedy the problems.

Please bear in mind, we have sold several thousand sierras, we have replaced fewer than ten for ALL the problems. No product has NO failures. So, we are happy to "stand behind" the small percentage that have failed, for ALL reasons.

As an aside, I also "stand behind" any Chinese kits we sell. These HAVE had more problems, but they are also "statistically insignificant".

 

[Haynie]

"statistically insignificant".

I hate that term. Statistically insignificant to whom? Buyer, seller, manufacturer?

I have a Blk Ti/Plat elegant beauty, made a month ago that the Blk Ti plating is wearing off of the front section opposite the clip side. Since I only carry the pen in my shirt pocket and only wear loose cotton shirts this is not good. I have made 4 of these pens which means this is a 25% fail rate on the plating. That is statistically significant to me as the buyer. You've sold say thousands and that makes it insignificant to you, and the manufacturer has sold maybe millions so it is even more insignificant.

Since it is significant to me and 1/4 of the pens I have made were poorly manufactured I will not be purchasing another one of these pens in this plating. I might try another plating but I will think twice about it.

 

[biednick]

Thanks guys - so should I press the nib out, or just try and put the loctite on without totally dissassembling

Yes. This is what I did.

 

[toddlajoie]

Just as an FYI, don't count me in as someone having a problem. I intentionally disassembled a Sierra (technically a WC Wall St II) to make a custom all wood version with no centerband and finial twist, which is the only reason I know what the inside of the nib looks like...

 

[ed4copies]

"statistically insignificant".

I hate that term. Statistically insignificant to whom? Buyer, seller, manufacturer?

I have a Blk Ti/Plat elegant beauty, made a month ago that the Blk Ti plating is wearing off of the front section opposite the clip side. Since I only carry the pen in my shirt pocket and only wear loose cotton shirts this is not good. I have made 4 of these pens which means this is a 25% fail rate on the plating. That is statistically significant to me as the buyer. You've sold say thousands and that makes it insignificant to you, and the manufacturer has sold maybe millions so it is even more insignificant.

Since it is significant to me and 1/4 of the pens I have made were poorly manufactured I will not be purchasing another one of these pens in this plating. I might try another plating but I will think twice about it.

Replacement is in the mail, with a self addressed, postage paid envelope to return the one that is worn, please.

We can't determine how to make them BETTER unless we see what is failing.

Thank you for having purchased your pen parts from us!!!.
Ed & Dawn

 

[Quality Pen]

I know this is an older post... but it still seems relevant. Lots of good, quality pen makers and sellers in this thread.

So I have to ask, who is currently making the best sierra-esque pen out there right now? My recent pen had me googling for solutions that, well, appear to be (too) common.

 

[ed4copies]

I know this is an older post... but it still seems relevant. Lots of good, quality pen makers and sellers in this thread.

So I have to ask, who is currently making the best sierra-esque pen out there right now? My recent pen had me googling for solutions that, well, appear to be (too) common.

The answer will not be universal. What plating choice will make a difference as to whose is most consistent.

Unfortunately, if I answer your question, there are many who will say I am "selling" or "pushing" the brands we represent. dUH, Exotics sells all three major brands and a couple minor ones.

 

[ed4copies]

I found the best fix to all my Sierra problems, I stop making them. For me it is unacceptable, wih al the problem that are reported here, with all the Sierra reseller (and yes, the Berea kit is no better so it's not an "made in China" issue )that are here on a regular basis and are aware of this situation that this kit is still available as it is. Takes time to buid a reputation as a pen maker, very easy to loose it. For me i can't imagine having to put all kinf of fixes glue, locktite or whatever to make a pen work properly. Kinf of remind me of the Churchill coupler problem. Took over a year for the manufacturer to change the coupler. Meanwhile we where told that we coul'dnt press a pen properly ) The problem is that turners are still choosing to make it and apply fixes. Manufacturers sells them so nothing will change. I guess they are about to write in the instructions "put CA glue, epoxy or locktite on the assembly" this way it willl solve their problem and make us responsible to fix the kit design flaw or malfunction . But a glue fix is still just a glue fix and will fail over time and usage. Sorry for the long brag, this subject just recall a lot of bad experiences . If it's innapropriate, please moderator just delete it.

Hey Alfred!!

What DO you sell?

There is no kit I know of that has NEVER had ANY problems!!! Since there are dozens of plating options for the Berea sierra and several other manufacturers calling their "look alikes" a sierra, that pen body probably represents over 50% of the "non-slimline" market. Certainly over a hundred thousand "sierra" kits are sold in the USA annually. Could be millions--I have no way of knowing WoodCraft, CSUSA and Penn State sell. The point is, I have heard of problems with nearly every pen kit ever made.

Few and far between on the Emperor, Lotus, Imperial, Venus, etc. But, let's face the fact that darn few are sold AND at over $50 a kit, you have every right to expect closer to perfection.

I have not heard any complaints on the Atrax or Triton---they don't have the market share of the Junior Gent, which has had numerous problems!

So, I believe when the number of kits sold gets large enough, SOMEONE of the thousands of members on IAP will have a problem and post it. And, yes, it is a problem for that person. A good set of punches will completely eliminate the problem and restore the customers' pens to "new" condition.

I used this as an opportunity for me to show outstanding customer service, when an occasional rollerball I sold came back to me (to replace the spring).

Just my experience----always interested in others' "take" on the same data.

Ed

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Aero is a little but different but it seems like there is very little to go wrong there. A quality kit at a decent price.

Also the liberty.

I do make some elegant sierras and haven't really had any probs with the Berea / woodcraft version.

The rockler eleganta I found to be a little worse

I don't make any of the standard Sierra as that's way to much black plastic or enamel or whatever it is for me.

 

[ed4copies]

Actually, Dan, I have been asked to replace more aero transmissions than any other pen I have handled.

Still far less than one percent, but "defective" nonetheless!