Loc-tite Gel

[TonyL]

I ran out of medium CA, and bought Loc-Tite gel. I am not having much success with it: tube not adhering.

Tube is being roughed-up (sanded with 80 grit on a dremel)

What do you guys/gals like in addition to the 2 part epoxy?

Thank you!

 

[Allen_B]

Tony, I ran out of CA last week and went on a glue hunt....4 different stores. I bought some Loctite G02 from Lowes and it worked good on my tubes. I also sanded with 80 grit. That stuff is as thick as cow snot though.

I read that blue and red gel is different and red is more for permanent stuff but blue is not.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Just use epoxy. It works every time.

I've used regular superglue before too as well as thick ca.

 

[TonyL]

Yes it is think and I like the dispenser, but it wasn't holding. I do like the two-part, I just don't have the patience some times. I better get some patience Thank you!

 

[kovalcik]

I use thick CA (Tightbond from Woodcraft or EZ Bond from Exotics) or Epoxy for my tubes. I have Tightbond gel I bought to fill voids but never use it for tubes.

 

[TonyL]

Thanks. I am going to use epoxy, until my CA comes in from PSI. Then I will try the others. I live near a Woodcraft. Thank you!

 

[OOPS]

When gluing tubes into wood blanks, I always use polyurethane glue. It foams, filling any small gaps between the wood and the tube, creating a tight fit. Excess foam, once it dries, can be taken off quickly with a fingernail or barrel trimmer.

For acrylic blanks, two part epoxy is the way to go.

I don't use CA for tube gluing because it can react with some of the natural oils/resins in wood, causing the tube to lock up before its been completely inserted into the blank! Once this happens, the only answer is to drill out the tube and start with a fresh tube. Also, CA doesn't bond as tightly between metal and acrylic, so the stresses of lathe work can cause the glue to fail.

Just my experience.... so far. I hope this helps.

 

[kovalcik]

I don't use CA for tube gluing because it can react with some of the natural oils/resins in wood, causing the tube to lock up before its been completely inserted into the blank! Once this happens, the only answer is to drill out the tube and start with a fresh tube.

Another solution: Cut the tube off and glue it in the other end of the blank. You will have a joint in the middle, but that does not matter. Measure to make sure your finished length is correct.

 

[flyitfast]

Thanks. I am going to use epoxy, until my CA comes in from PSI. Then I will try the others. I live near a Woodcraft. Thank you!

Once you try epoxy you will never go back! Other than mixing (not much of a bother) it has always been the best I've ever used. Always holds tight.
gordon

 

[TonyL]

My problem is learning patience. I like the epoxy. But sometimes I get the feeling to turn a pen, and I don't want to wait.

How long do you allow it to cure?

 

[longbeard]

My problem is learning patience. I like the epoxy. But sometimes I get the feeling to turn a pen, and I don't want to wait.

How long do you allow it to cure?

I usually will cut, drill and glue a few blanks up one day, turn them the next day. Any where from 16 to 24 hours before i turn them.


Harry

 

[bjbear76]

I switched to epoxy awhile back, I liked it; but I was too impatient waiting for it to dry. I'm back to thick CA on most of my tubes.

 

[TonyL]

Regarding the epoxy. that is how long I wait.

Regarding the impatience...I am glad that I am not the only one LOL.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

I'll bet it's good to go in an hour or less. I usually wait overnight but have turned after epoxy same day with no failures.

Stuff sets up pretty quick. Quicker than I want it to sometimes.

 

[bjbear76]

I had a couple of "goofs" because I tried turning the blanks before the epoxy was dry. My routine: drill the blanks and reverse paint acrylics in the evening; glue the tubes in the morning before work; "assumed" they were good to go when I got home in the evening. Well, sometimes they were, sometimes not. The cold winter could have had something to do with the epoxy not drying completely. To me, thick CA was more reliable and WAY less messy (I'm a complete klutz with epoxy).

 

[TonyL]

I am starting to lean more toward epoxy. Although, out of the 15 pens I made, I only used epoxy on two. I am also not the most adept with epoxy. Maybe it takes practice, Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

 

[flyitfast]

When using epoxy, I spread on about 2/3 to 3/4 of the tube. Then put the tube in the blank with the epoxy end first, twisting as I insert it. This spreads the glue and covers all the tube. Fingers don't get too messy that way either. If I do it the first thing in the morning, I can turn them by late afternoon - however, I usually let them dry over night for best results.
gordon

 

[SnowLeopard_2001]

I don't use CA for tube gluing because it can react with some of the natural oils/resins in wood, causing the tube to lock up before its been completely inserted into the blank! Once this happens, the only answer is to drill out the tube and start with a fresh tube.

Another solution: Cut the tube off and glue it in the other end of the blank. You will have a joint in the middle, but that does not matter. Measure to make sure your finished length is correct.

Another solution is to gently heat the brass tube. The CA will soften with heat, and then you gently pull the tube out of the blank.

 

[ashaw]

I used epoxy all the time. I wait 2 hours before turning if I am in a hurry or the next day.

When I was using CA I waited two hours before turning. Had too many failures if I turned right away. Most glues including epoxy and CA they recommend 24 hours for fully cured.

I have learned the hard way if you rush I wasted more than just time. The other benefit to epoxy is that you can color tint it. It's great because if you have a spot or two after reverse paint the tinted epoxy will help hide any spots.