light-colored wet/dry sandpaper...???

[redfishsc]

I have the occasional time when I want to wet-sand some whiter woods, but all I have that is wet-dry is silicon carbide, ie, black. I can't even use MM, it turns the wood grey as well (yes, I'm staying off the bushings).

Anyhow, I know there are some bowl turners that use wet-dry paper on bowls turned and finished while soaking wet... woods like maple and english sycamore. What kind of paper are they using?

 

[RussFairfield]

You can use any garnet or Aluminum Oxide paper with water. The only problem is that the glue that bonds the grit to the paper isn't waterproof and most of the grit will come off in the slurry and you can't use the paper again. It will sand as well as any wet paper, but you will have more slurry to clean off. I take the wood to the shop sink and wash it off with soap and water.

 

[chigdon]

I had the same problem and switched entirely to Finkat paper that I get from Craft Supply. It really is a good paper too.

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cgi-bin/shopper?search=action&keywords=finkat-paper

 

[Dario]

Try Klingspor's stearate sandpaper at http://www.woodworkingshop.com/

 

[ctEaglesc]

I have the occasional time when I want to wet-sand some whiter woods, but all I have that is wet-dry is silicon carbide, ie, black. I can't even use MM, it turns the wood grey as well (yes, I'm staying off the bushings).

I have been using MM for 2 years and have never had it stain the wood.
At first when I started using it not realizing too much pressure at too high of a speed I would melt it, but in sanding holly, ash, sycamore,maple I have never had a transfer of color to the wood I attributed to mm.
Have you tried starting your sanding with a seal coat?
What speed are you sanding at?
I cannot recall anyone else claiming mm stained their pen either.

 

[redfishsc]

Well, now you are making me think. First I always use water when sanding with MM. My speed is usually around 2400, and I do have a very light touch on sanding (after sanding hundreds of doors for cabinets you kinda learn your way around how sanding works, lol).

I have some yellerheart that I'm turning tomorrow, I'll see how the MM works on it.

 

[Dario]

Originally posted by redfishsc
<br />My speed is usually around 2400, and I do have a very light touch on sanding (after sanding hundreds of doors for cabinets you kinda learn your way around how sanding works, lol).

Too fast for me...but as you said, if you know how to work it then speed doesn't matter.

 

[redfishsc]

Well, Dario, I may be cooking some of the MM off of the pad. I'll slow it down next time and see.

 

[ctEaglesc]

Well, now you are making me think. First I always use water when sanding with MM.

The first time I read this I just skimmed over it.I read it again with some coffee in me and started thinking.(I know, dangerous)
I did say that other than a few times that I melted the mm i have never had a color transfer from the mm onto my blanks.
I am wondering now if the water which is acting as a lubricant isn't cleaning any "microscopic grunge" off your mm and transfering that to the blanks.
Personally I haven't seen the need to wet sand wooden blanks and take great pains not to wet them other than maybe wiping them down with a little spit and a clean paper towel but that is done rarely.I usually blow them off witht the compressor.
How often do you clean your MM?

 

[alamocdc]

My thoughts as well, Eagle. Like you, I've never had a color transfer using MM, but I don't wet sand wood either. I do wet sand my synthetics with MM, but these are separate pieces set aside strictly for that purpose. And, fish, I do all my sanding and finishing at turning speed (2750 or 3000 depending on where I have my belt set) so the speed should only be a factor if you are melting the MM, or it isn't being "cleaned off" between uses.