Leadless 30-06 Pen Nibs

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Does anybody know where I can find some leadless 30-06 bullets. I've looked around but haven't benn able to find any. I've been wanting to make some bullet pens for a while but I'm worried that regular bullets would not be safe for this.

Thanks for the help
 
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snyiper

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I think most copper jacketed bullets you can melt the lead out and leave the copper jacket. I am sure someone will set us both straight on this.
 

jskeen

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Most commercial copper jacketed bullets are so thin at the ends that if the lead is melted out, the hole at the tip is too large for the refill. I use Government issue Full Metal Jacketed bullets, they are steel with a thin plating of copper all the way to the tip, and can be drilled for a nice snug exit hole after the lead is melted out, so the refill doesn't rattle around. When the tip is drilled correctly, there is enough metal that I can flatten the tip a little too, so the edge is not so thin that it is sharp.

If you would like some, drop me a pm, we can work something out, I've got plenty.
 

Mark

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Barnes makes a Lead Free, 30 caliber bullet. I picked mine up at Cabela's. If I recall it was a .308 150 gr. bullet. Comes 50 to a box.
 
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workinforwood

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I get the hollow points and they have lead in them. I chuck the bullet and part off the copper right at the back of the bullet to reveal the lead. Then I put on turn on my barbeque. I put some tinfoil in the bottom. I use long tweesers and hold the bullets upside down over the flame. The lead melts fast and falls on to the tinfoil. Then I discard the tinfoil in the trash. The little bit of scorching from the flames on the bullets is no big deal, it polishes right off in no time.
 

Sylvanite

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Sometimes, I wonder if I'm the only one left who still drills lead. I've used a wide variety of copper jacketed lead core bullets and found most to be suitable for rifle cartridge pens. The only ones that have caused me problems are
  1. Bullets with a very large hollow-point. Nosler Ballistic Tips fall into this category.
  2. Bullets with a cannelure or expansion groove in an inconvient place. Some of the Barnes copper bullets have such a groove. I generally prefer bullets without any groove or cannelure.
I also haven't felt the need to use copper-washed steel-jacketed bullets. Every copper-jacketed bullet I've tried has had a thick enough wall to stand up to normal use. I do, however, avoid bullets designed for "varmint" hunting as these have thinner jackets.

The hazards of metallic lead are overstated. Lead in metal form is not water-soluble and is not easily absorbed into the bloodstream. Lead poisoning typically only occurs with repeated ingestion of lead salts. I used to cast my own bullets and handled a lot of lead so I researched the dangers and had my blood lead level tested. Even after years of exposure, my level was normal.

Burns from molten lead are a much more realistic danger.

If you really want a lead-free solution, though, I've found the Barnes .308 130g TSX solid copper bullet to be a good choice for 30 caliber cartridges.

Regards,
Eric
 

Curly

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Does anybody know where I can find some leadless 30-06 bullets. I've looked around but haven't benn able to find any. I've been wanting to make some bullet pens for a while but I'm worried that regular bullets would not be safe for this.

Thanks for the help

Just to clarify your request. Are you asking for empty 30-06 cases (without primer, powder, etc.,) or for the bullets to make pen tips out of, to insert into brass you have? The answers so far are for the bullets only. I read your question as asking for empty cases.

Pete
 

JerrySambrook

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Eric,
You are not the only one who does this.

I still have a few thousand 147 fmj's which are not even good for practice, and a few thousand 173 fmj's, which I do use in my service rifle for practice only.


jskeen. The govt issue are typically not steel with a thin copper coating, as the steel damages rifles bores very fast. They are a heavier copper jacket, and either 147 150 or 173 grain in .30 cal
That being said, if you do have steel core ammo, there would be quite a few people that would be interested in buying these, as the steel core used to shoot fairly good
 

turner.curtis

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Have never made a cartridge pen, but have shot across the course and Smallbore for 20+ years. I personally would not be too concerned with the lead/tin/antimony alloy cores although if you go with all copper or brass copper alloy like the old crappy lost river stuff versus a copper jacketed alloy you may need to go with a lighter bullet to get the same OAL. Copper has an SG of right at 8.9 where as most copper jacketed alloys have an SG of about 10.6.
 
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Pete, I was talking about the bullet only but thanks for asking.

Thanks everyone for the advise, I found some bullets that I like so I'll give them a try.
 

lorbay

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I get the hollow points and they have lead in them. I chuck the bullet and part off the copper right at the back of the bullet to reveal the lead. Then I put on turn on my barbeque. I put some tinfoil in the bottom. I use long tweesers and hold the bullets upside down over the flame. The lead melts fast and falls on to the tinfoil. Then I discard the tinfoil in the trash. The little bit of scorching from the flames on the bullets is no big deal, it polishes right off in no time.
I do much the same as Jeff except I use a small propane torch. Then I put it back in the chuck and part off the very tip and then drill a #47 hole in the end, then polish it while there.

Lin.
 

Rmartin

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I get the hollow points and they have lead in them. I chuck the bullet and part off the copper right at the back of the bullet to reveal the lead. Then I put on turn on my barbeque. I put some tinfoil in the bottom. I use long tweesers and hold the bullets upside down over the flame. The lead melts fast and falls on to the tinfoil. Then I discard the tinfoil in the trash. The little bit of scorching from the flames on the bullets is no big deal, it polishes right off in no time.
I do much the same as Jeff except I use a small propane torch. Then I put it back in the chuck and part off the very tip and then drill a #47 hole in the end, then polish it while there.

Lin.

I use a torch too with Horaday hollow point boat tail. I drill a hole on the end just through the cooper until I hit lead. I used to drill all the way, but after a few pens, the bit gets hot and melts the lead and gets stuck. Then, one hit with the torch on the plastic tip and it pops out. Torch the other end until the lead melts out.
 
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