Lathe Rust?

[Sappheiros]

So, since I started turning, I tried both wet and dry sanding/polishing. Wet is by far quite a bit better. My lathe accessories as well as the lathe body has gotten some discoloring. The mandrel gets a little bit of what appears to be then beginnings of rust as well as the mandrel saver.

I recently bought some towels from the dollar store to help lay under the mandrel while sanding and polishing the blanks, but I'm worried the damage has already been done. Is there some sort of treatment I should be doing? I know the lathe is a heavy/durable piece of equipment, but I want to make sure I'm treating it properly.

 

[jttheclockman]

Very useful kit for all tools. Always protect the lathe from water when wet sanding. No need to be sloppy with the water. Just wet the sandpaper.

Boeshield 3-Part Tool Care Kits and Lubricant - Rockler Woodworking Tools

 

[KenV]

I turn wet wood for bowls. Clean up is scotch bright and a little Johnson floor wax.

 

[monophoto]

A lathe is a tool, and is intended to be used, not coddled.

That said, there are a number of common-sense things that can and should be done. One is to protect the bedways when wet sanding. Paper towel works fine. A sheet of cardboard might work better since the thicker material means that it will be harder for moisture to seep through to the metal. The ultimate might be a sheet of plywood - I have a sheet of 1/2" plywood with some wooden cleats that fit between the bedways. This is very useful if I need additional space when changing chuck jaws, and because I've coated the plywood with polyurethane, its very waterproof..

Another useful thing is to periodically clean the bedways and apply some kind of protective coating. A Scotchbrite pad combined with WD40 does a great job of removing minor rust, grime, and finishes that may have accumulated on the bedways, and the WD40 helps resist rusting. Sometime I coat the bedways with a thin application of either paraffil candle or canning wax, or sometimes I will use a silicone spray - all depends on what I feel like that day.

 

[Indiana_Parrothead]

I use a small plastic bowl with water in it and just dip the MM. The bowl catches pretty much all the water. I use a razor blade in a holder and just scrape off any rust and it also takes off any CA that I might have gotten on there doing finishing. The rust stains will stay on there and not look good but will not hurt the operation of the lathe. Then use some Boesheld T-9 once in awhile.

AS Louie said it's a tool and intended to be used.

Mike

 

[jd420214]

It may sound funny but I use puppy pads when wet sanding water won,t soak through and you can get a 100 for about $20just place under your work.

 

[Sappheiros]

It may sound funny but I use puppy pads when wet sanding water won,t soak through and you can get a 100 for about $20just place under your work.

This is why I love it here! You won't hear this anywhere else! So many great suggestions here. I'll start trying some out! Everyone here is the best.

 

[moke]

I have always used a magnetic cover intended for covering heat registered. It is about $5 and I cut it to size....

I attended a John Jordan turning seminar...he turns wet wood constantly and has no issues because part of his pre-turning procedure is to spray down the lathe and wipe off the tools with WD-40.....yes, he does this everyday!!!

 

[carlmorrell]

Both my lathe and tablesaw get a lot of (ab)use. I wait until I am embarrassed about the condition. With the lathe, I remove the head and tail, then I get out my random orbit sander and sand the bed clean.

I follow up with wd40, since I can not ever seem to find Topcoat.YMMV

 

[randyrls]

Cover the bed ways with craft foam. I also use heavy shelf liner from Harbor Freight. You do not want anything that will absorb water.

 

[BSea]

+1 for John T's bioshield. The link he shows doesn't work at the moment, but it's Rocker's site. I'm sure it will work later.

I used Bioshield Rust remover, and it made my discolored 5 year old ways look brand new. I then treated it with Bioshield T-9. Both products are great, and you can buy them at Amazon too.

To protect my ways when I wet sand, I have a rectangular tupperware container that my wife threw out.

I do like the magnetic cover idea. I think I'll switch to that method.

 

[MikeinSC]

Johnson's paste wax would help. Most likely it is only surface rust which won't be the end of the world at all. And really, how often will the tool rest be clamped down that close to the headstock when making a pen where rust would be an issue? But if it is, then go over it with some steel wool which should be a more than enough to knock off surface rust.

 

[Dalecamino]

A super absorbing bath towel will do. Fold it a couple of times but don't let it get into the turning parts. Make it a pink one so Skiprat will have his fun with you ! All of the affore mentioned suggestions work great. It's up to you which will work best for you. I like T-9 for rust that is already set in. Otherwise keeping bare metal coated either with oil or wax. BTW, if you use T-9 be sure to read the instructions. Can't leave it on too long. Hope this helps.

 

[WriteON]

A lathe is a tool, and is intended to be used, not coddled.

That said, there are a number of common-sense things that can and should be done. One is to protect the bedways when wet sanding. Paper towel works fine. A sheet of cardboard might work better since the thicker material means that it will be harder for moisture to seep through to the metal..

I slightly dampen a paper towel to give it some weight to prevent it being sucked into the duct collector.
Aside from that I periodically coat the bed with Breakfree.

 

[Skie_M]

I went and got some hobby craft foam from Hobby Lobby ... and I cut a few pieces to the sizes I feel work well with certain size projects.

I laid them on my lathe bed, and put a drop or two of superglue on top, over one of the lathe ways, and then applied a small neodymium magnet (got them from Harbor Freight) to the superglue (be careful, the magnet will want to jump toward the lathe bed and splash you with glue), so that I can hold it in place there easily.

When not in use, I can stick them sideways to the table legs, which are steel. so they can dry off and be out of the way.


This method is probably a bit cheaper than the magnetic duct covers people are talking about... but still useful in a similar fashion.


To prevent water puddled on the foam from getting on the lathe bed, I take some paper towel and lay it right on the foam to soak up the water and hold it in place ... if there's too much water there I toss the paper towel and replace with another piece.


I came up with this method to keep superglue from dripping on my lathe bed and the lathe motor which is right underneath, while I am applying crushed stone inlays on the lathe, but it worked so well I figure it would work for water too!

 

[jttheclockman]

I only use paper towels. Quick clean up and I do not use much water for polishing. Just enough to keep the MM wet or sandpaper. Wipe off excess when done. I do not use water for drilling. I use DNA. keeps bits cool and do not have to worry about rust with it. I do coat all my tools with T9 but being in a basement shop I do not have a rust problem.

 

[suefox51]

John:
DNA is a new one for me - what does it stand for?

Sue

 

[MikeinSC]

Denatured alcohol is dna. Not to be confused with DNA and RNA

 

[jttheclockman]

John:
DNA is a new one for me - what does it stand for?

Sue

As mentioned yes DNA stands for denatured alcohol. It cools the bit alot faster than water. and no need to worry about rust. Dries quickly.

 

[Sabaharr]

I lay a small piece of plywood on the bed of the lathe when I am wet sanding. Also you can wax the area under the mandrel at minimum and it won't hurt to wax your mandrel if it is starting to rust. Depending on how much you use the lathe you might want to periodically rewax it as routine maintenance, especially the mandrel if rust has started.

 

[oneleggimp]

I only use paper towels. Quick clean up and I do not use much water for polishing. Just enough to keep the MM wet or sandpaper. Wipe off excess when done. I do not use water for drilling. I use DNA. keeps bits cool and do not have to worry about rust with it. I do coat all my tools with T9 but being in a basement shop I do not have a rust problem.

I'd be a little concerned about using the DNA for drilling.Flash point of DNA is somewhere around 75 degrees fahrenheit and the heat of a drill bit while drilling - especially some hardwoods where the moment of friction is increased COULD ignite the DNA. Just saying. I use DNA to wipe down pen blanks after the final sanding and I am at pains to be sure to not create any friction while doing so. I apply with the lathe stopped.

 

[randyrls]

I'd be a little concerned about using the DNA for drilling.Flash point of DNA is somewhere around 75 degrees fahrenheit and the heat of a drill bit while drilling - especially some hardwoods where the moment of friction is increased COULD ignite the DNA. Just saying. I use DNA to wipe down pen blanks after the final sanding and I am at pains to be sure to not create any friction while doing so. I apply with the lathe stopped.

Yep; AND the flame from DNA is almost invisible! I was making a bowl and using Jimmy Clewes technique of dying with DNA. After applying the dye, you light the DNA on fire to "set" the dye. I thought it hadn't lit. WRONG!!!

 

[johnbelial]

I use cardboard to cover the bed but still have some rust ocassionally then I use scotch bright and silicone spray

 

[jttheclockman]

Let see I have been turning pens now for 10+ years and never had a problem with the use of DNA as a fire starter. I will continue to use it. Those that choose to or not so be it. Use with extreme caution., as with any and all chemicals at all times. I think I would highly recommend not starting it on fire (just saying)

here is the safety sheet for DNA

http://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS00034/41071424-20121004.PDF

 

[76winger]

I drape a sheet of plastic line material sold as a paint throw cloth. It's pretty cheap and keeps all the water off the way tubes and everything else around it. Mandrel seems to be OK, but I wipe it off with a cloth as soon as I'm done wet sanding, so it never stays wet for any length of time.