Laser Inlay Kits - sanding only?

[Razorburne]

I've read several posts that seem to indicate some of you do no actual turning with tools when shaping inlay kits, but rather only use sandpaper. I'm thinking of doing my first inlay kit at some point - I currently only have Easy Wood Tools carbide tools in my possession and I'm assuming that although sharp, the scraping action may not be the best approach for an inlay kit. I'm assuming it might cause a catch and grab on a piece if it happens to be protruding etc.

So I figured if sanding only is a good option, that maybe that's how I should go about it.

Question to those with experience doing this: do I just do the sanding as usual, first rotationally with the lathe on, and then straight up and down the length of the blank with the lathe off to remove circular scratch pattern? Work my way up the grits and finish?

Any pointers or comments for me ?

 

[keithbyrd]

I have never sanded inlay kits instead of turning and have never had one blow up! I have used a carbide before but have been using the skew for the last few years. Sharp tools and light cuts. Also don't be afraid to soak the inlay pieces with CA after gluing in place - I generally soak mine really well and it won't hurt to wait overnight to ensure the CA is cured.

 

[SteveG]

I have never done the "sanding only" approach, but have turned at least 20 or more Laser inlay blanks. I have not had a problem with catch or tear-out on these blanks. The process for these blanks is to first position and lock the parts into the barrel, using CA sparingly. Then, once all is in place properly, additional CA is applied to anchor the small parts securely. Following that, the whole wood/inlay barrel is glued to the tube. If all is done properly, the small parts are very securely held in place. Prior to turning, it is good practice to sand down any pieces that are sitting high. At that point, I proceed to turn, at high speed, and with light touch. Low speed is more prone to have a 'catch'. I have used both carbide and skew, and not experienced any loss of small parts. The attention to good glue-work is probably the main factor for success. YMMV.

There is a technique of tipping the carbide over to about a 45* angle, to get more of a shearing cut that might be employed. I am just not interested in trying to attain a nice, round blank with good fit using sanding-only, and it has not been necessary for me.I hope your efforts go well!

 

[lyonsacc]

I use 150 grit. Up my speed to 800 or 1200. Make sure my dust collector is positioned well. Then commenced the sanding. It is nice to use a reaonably long strip of paper. I don't stop to sand lengthwise until I am close to the final dimension. Keep in mind that thewood may sand down pretty quickly at higher speeds.

 

[Razorburne]

I have never done the "sanding only" approach, but have turned at least 20 or more Laser inlay blanks. I have not had a problem with catch or tear-out on these blanks. The process for these blanks is to first position and lock the parts into the barrel, using CA sparingly. Then, once all is in place properly, additional CA is applied to anchor the small parts securely. Following that, the whole wood/inlay barrel is glued to the tube. If all is done properly, the small parts are very securely held in place. Prior to turning, it is good practice to sand down any pieces that are sitting high. At that point, I proceed to turn, at high speed, and with light touch. Low speed is more prone to have a 'catch'. I have used both carbide and skew, and not experienced any loss of small parts. The attention to good glue-work is probably the main factor for success. YMMV.

There is a technique of tipping the carbide over to about a 45* angle, to get more of a shearing cut that might be employed. I am just not interested in trying to attain a nice, round blank with good fit using sanding-only, and it has not been necessary for me.I hope your efforts go well!

Thank you guys for the quick and informative responses. Thanks @SteveG...after reading your response, I feel confident in turning an inlay with my carbide tools. I will take care in using plenty of CA, and sand down any high spots first. I will turn fast with light cuts and I'll post my result as a thank you if I don't mess it up! Thanks again!

 

[its_virgil]

I turn them with a skew and not had a problem...but I turn all pens all materials from beginning to end with skews.

Sanding sealer or thin CA between sand paper grits to keep colored dust from getting on the lighter woods.

Using skews does reduce (greatly) the need for sanding.

Do a good turn daily!
Don