Laser Cut Blank Question (from a newbie)

[Pens By Scott]

Hi everyone,
I've just bought a laser cut kit (Canadian Flag) and was wondering about a few things.

I've followed the instructions I was given and have glued up the kit on to the barrel, added the end pieces and trimmed them down a little on the band saw (end pieces were square) and will turn them down.

My question is, do i turn the rest of the blank too (the part with the inlay piece) or just sand it? I don't want to blow a $25 blank, so that's why I ask (also keep in mind, I have just started turning seriously in the past 9 months).

Scott

 

[ldb2000]

If you can avoid turning it you should but if it will make it too fat in the middle then you might have to . If you do take very light cuts with a very sharp skew . It can very easily go bad fast , one catch and it will go boom .
Turn the ends down first without touching the pattern part and see how it matches up to the bushings . If it's close then give the whole blank a soak of thin CA to harden the parts and fill any gaps and finish it with sandpaper . Be careful of overheating it and softening the glue , let it cool off every so often and see how it looks . Then finish like any other wood blank .

 

[leestoresund]

laser cut

I've turned over a dozen lazer pens. Two have blown out. Could that have been prevented by sanding? Maybe.
The cause was not making sure that they were entirely glued. They both had pieces that sat a little too proud of the surface.
For me it has helped to entirely cover the blank with blue tape when the pieces are all together. But first I roll the tube on a flat surface to set the pieces in as far and as evenly as I can.I use either 5 minute epoxy or (gasp) Gorilla glue because both will expand into the gaps and secure the pieces. After the glue sets and when there are small pieces I also flood the area with thin CA from the outside.
I only use a skew to turn them down to just about finished size. Stop often to make sure that there are no gaps between the pieces. If there are, reapply thin CA and let it soak in. Constant uses black or dark sawdust with the CA to emphasize the lines. He criticized me for using Gorilla glue because it would not sufficiently emphasize the lines.
Anyway, this is what I did to solve the same problem you are concerned with.
Now to figure out how to get a consistently shiny CA finish without having to redo it 3 times.

Lee

 

[Constant Laubscher]

I would only use black dust on the kits that have detail lines like the Rose or Praying hands. I would not use a gouge but a skew is fine and just do light cuts and yes you can turn the the whole piece and shape it the way you want it. CA finish works best for me.

 

[Pens By Scott]

Thanks everyone, i'll take a shot at this tonight, and with a little luck, be posting the results.

 

[Monty]

....Constant uses black or dark sawdust with the CA to emphasize the lines. ....

I use black, rubberized CA on mine to fill or emphasize lines.

 

[jocat54]

I have turned several of Constance's kits and always use a skew(sharp), but first I sand the inlays down to fairly smooth and then use the skew to finish shaping. No problems so far. The first couple I was really nervous about but it gets better.

 

[Displaced Canadian]

I have done 4 or 5 kits and I sand a little first to knock off any real high spots then turn with a skew. Be sure it is well glued to the tube. As of yet I haven't had any blow outs.