laminating flooring

[Haynie]

We live in the house my Father-in-law left to his kids. A year ago our dishwasher flooded the house. Having hard wood floors meant ruination. Insurance covered the damage and we replaced the floor with tile. Much better choice with dogs and kids. Anyhow my father-in-law laid the wood floor and being the packrat he was he kept all of the scrap and I found it yesterday. I believe it is rosewood. Anyway, it is not laminate it is solid wood. I thought it would be cool to make some pens out of it but not sure how to laminate two pieces together.

Would you use tight bond, epoxy or maybe CA? Might include some aluminum too.

 

[bensoelberg]

I've laminated wood and aluminum with CA and haven't had any problem with it, just be careful while drilling. Make sure your tools are sharp as well. If you weren't going to have a tube, I'd use titebond.

 

[Displaced Canadian]

For just wood I use CA. Don't really have and experience with using aluminum. How ever I did get some the other day...

 

[ctubbs]

In my VERY limited experience, epoxy worked well for my project with wood/metal junction. Just be very sure that the metal is clean and has a good well scratched surface for the adhesive to attach to. Any oils on the metal will tend to cause joint failure. Please DAMHIKT! For wood to wood, it will be hard to do better than Titebond.
Charles

 

[corian king]

The best way to glue up pieces of wood is to use Tightbond wood glue.
Make sure the wood is clean and and you have an even flow of glue over the piece.
Clamp up very tight and leave for 24hrs.Thats what I do when making cabinets.
Good Luck!!

 

[sbell111]

We made several pens using left over flooring. Ours was 3/4" so no glue-up was needed. Are you sure that you need to glue them up?

 

[RogerH]

I've made pens with both acrylic/aluminum and wood/aluminum. I used CA on both, and it worked well, though on the acrylic I did have to support the bonds between the two materials by putting a layer of CA on the outside of the joints, because when I was drilling it, the blank was wobbling at the seams! Got it done though, and the finished product was nice.

Anyway, my vote is for CA. It has worked well for me.

 

[JimB]

Most hardwood flooring is 3/4" and should be fine just the way it is for almost any pen. I've made a few with hardwood flooring scraps and never glued any together.

 

[Haynie]

Unfortunately the flooring has grooves milled into the underside. After planing the grooves of and skimming the finish off things will be pretty thin I am estimating 1/4-3/8 usable material. Thus it will be ripe for segmenting and laminating

 

[jbswearingen]

If just gluing wood to wood, I would use either plain wood glue or poly glue. Clamp them up well.

I wouldn't use CA on wood to wood.

 

[Justturnin]

I would use wood glue. It will give an invisible seam but CA will stain the wood and create a dark line where the pieces meet.

 

[Rick_G]

For just wood go with titebond wood glue, the joint will actually be stronger than the wood around it and if you play with grain alignment the joint will be virtually invisible. If mixing other materials such as aluminum I always use 24 hour epoxy you will get a stronger joint than with the 5 min. stuff.

When planing the finish off use a set of old blades until you get the finish off, then put some new sharp ones in for the last little bit. I don't know what the finish is they put on that flooring but it will dull a new set of planer blades incredibly fast.