Which kits to start with?

[cozee]

Since I got outbid in the resin auction for IAP, I am going to buy some kits and tools like I should be doing so I can turn my first pen. I take it that slimlines are the basic starting point. Are all slimlines created equal??? Are there ones I should avoid? Any reccomendations on kits and where to get them will be greatly appreciated.

 

[arjudy]

I would not start with slimlines. I would start with cigar kits. The greater size of these kits make them easier to turn in my opinion. I found that when I first started out turning pens that it was difficult to turn a straight barreled pen. Try a few cigars first, I think you will like them.

 

[JimGo]

I agree - cigar pens are a better start. You can get 'em pretty cheap from http://www.arizonasilhouette.com

 

[cozee]

Okay, cee-gars it tis! Next question, does one need a barrel trimmer to star off with???

 

[johncrane]

you will need a barrel trimmer to square off your blanks ends after you have glued in your tubes.you buy them from the pen supplier. check out Russ fairfield how to make a pen it is on the front page IAP left hand side

 

[cozee]

I've got Rich's how-tos already. Great info! I thought I read somewhere that I can square the ends of the blank with the tubes using a disc sander, which I have and with a fence.

 

[gerryr]

Using a disc sander only works if you have a jig to hold the tube, not the wood, square to the sander.

 

[leehljp]

I say that slimlines are the BEST ones to start with. If you can do a slimline you have a good _start_ for moving to more difficult pens. Beginning with a slimline is like starting with an old stickshift pickup with a floor mounted starter while you are on the side of hill. [] Well, maybe not quite that bad, [] but if you master a slimline first, you have a good start to go anywhere and the COST of a slimline is half the price of a cigar; and you get twice the experience under your belt. It was for me, a lot harder to do a straight slimline than curved or mildly curved pens.

Cigars are easy and Sierras are easier than that. But where is the joy (experience) of mastering frustration in those? []

 

[Dario]

I agree with Hank. If you can do a B2B straight barreled slimline consistently, I think you can handle almost any kit after.

7mm Euro is the same because of the tenon...once you got that part down almost everything is a variation of the two combined IMHO.

It all depends on what you are aiming for really.

Starting with 7mm kit also have another benefit we take for granted...that it fits the mandrel...minimizing the possibility of bushing defects to affect the pen (i.e. old sierra bushings).

The major reason for me then to use slimline and 7mm Euro are:
1. cheap kit price []
2. availability of tubes
3. one mandrel
4. one drill bit
5. that is what everyone told me to do lol

I started with an elcheapo and antigo drillpress with mounted hand drill that worked but can have major run out so I always drill for Euro. If the drift was bad, the blank will be used for slimline instead. Most of the time it works. I still had a few that I had to throw away [] Bottom line, interchangeability was important for me then.

 

[alparent]

Have you done any turning before?

If so, a cigar will give you more wood to work with (but a B2B cigar look like crap) A slim-lime done with a 3/4" blank will give you alot of wood to practice before getting to the final shape. And the assembling of a slim-line is pretty simple.

If not, I would start with just a piece of cheap wood, betwen centers and practice using your tools.

The best thing I ever did to improve my pen turning was to get good at using my skew.

 

[RogerGarrett]

I started with slimlines, and I found them to be a good start. There is very good reason to consider the cigars - all listed by what others said.

I was surprised recently by how easy it is to turn and assemble the Sierra pens. You can get them fairly inexpensively if you just purchase the black with gold rather than the more expensive titanium with gold or platinum. You only have one barrel to make, and if you purchase extra tubes, you can screw up the barrel and start again prior to assembly.

I have never used a barrel trimmer - I've always just made sure my blanks were trued up on the jointer, then the table saw, then the chop saw (ends) before drilling. But - I'm planning to ask the new question in the "Casual" forum - which barrel trimmer to purchase.....[]

Best,
Roger Garrett

 

[Dario]

Roger,

Not sure now which set I got but I think it is from PSI. For me, Barrel trimmer is one of the most important things you can have if you want to turn good pens consistently.

 

[OSCAR15]

Get a barrel trimmer for sure!!!! As to first pen Cigar is a bit easier but slimline isnt hard...

 

[cigarman]

IMHO you are better off starting with a single barrel pen such as a poloris. You don't have to worry about getting two barrels to match in size and shape and you get good pratice with plenty of material to work with. Again that is just my opinion.

 

[ed4copies]

Clearly, you need another opinion (tongue firmly in cheek).

I turn and sell more cigars than any other pen, turn them fat for arthritis sufferers, "my standard" for my own appreciation (also sells the best) and B2B (which means bushing to bushing, if you haven't picked that up yet) when I screw up the plastic near the end and need to make a pen, anyhow!

I HAVE turned nearly every kit, the only drawback to the cigar is its weight-if you are going to attempt to sell them, women (SOME) object to this. But, for my money, it's the most fun of all the kits, because the end pen shows off the material and (I'm a plastic guy) the tubes RARELY show, cause you leave a fair amount of material everywhere but just above the nib.

GOOD LUCK whatever you choose, but my vote is squarely on the side of the CEE-GARRRRRR!!!! (Make sure you put the smallest bushing at the nib, the second smallest is REAL close in size).[][]

 

[cigarman]

while it is true I sell more cigar pens and barons than any other, the ladies seem to like the polaris, and also we were not talking about selling pens but which pen is best to start pen making. I will still stand with a single barrel pen for starting.

 

[RussFairfield]

A Cigar can never be anything but a Cigar. The Slim-Line can be anything you want it to be.

 

[alparent]

After reading all of your comments and thinking about it. I think slim-line's are the best choice.

1. They are cheap.
2. You can make them into what ever you like.
3. With 2 short blanks there is less chances of bit run-outs.
4. You lurn NOT to forget to match your grain.
5. Tubes fit right on the mandral.
6. They are easy to assemble.

That's IMHO[:I]

 

[bradh]

I agree on the slimlines, easy to learn with and cheap (easier to take if you make mistakes).
I don't agree with the barrel trimmer comments. I square up with a disk sander, the jigs are easy to make. I show my first one on the workshop page of my web site; made with scrap wood, a corner bracket and 1/4" treaded rod. I just finished a new one, based on instructions from Jay Pickens. This one is basically 1/4 threaded rod through a 2x4 with a cross piece to ride in the mitre slot.
Brad Harding,
www.HardingPens.com

 

[ed4copies]

Regarding barrel trimmers, if you use the cigar, the lower tube IS critical, be careful if you choose to sand (I did it this way for my first 5 years, it CAN be done without any jigs).

If you use the slimline NEITHER tube length is critical and there ARE numerous modifications that can be made.

HAVE FUN! [][]

 

[its_virgil]

I too use a jig based on the instructions by my friend and neighbor (100 miles down the freeway) Jay Pickens. See it at:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13520

Ed: how do you square on a sander without a jig? You've pricked my interest. I never could make it happen.

Do a good turn daily!
Don

Originally posted by bradh
<br />I agree on the slimlines, easy to learn with and cheap (easier to take if you make mistakes).
I don't agree with the barrel trimmer comments. I square up with a disk sander, the jigs are easy to make. I show my first one on the workshop page of my web site; made with scrap wood, a corner bracket and 1/4" treaded rod. I just finished a new one, based on instructions from Jay Pickens. This one is basically 1/4 threaded rod through a 2x4 with a cross piece to ride in the mitre slot.
Brad Harding,
www.HardingPens.com

 

[mick]

Originally posted by RussFairfield
<br />A Cigar can never be anything but a Cigar. The Slim-Line can be anything you want it to be.

So Freud was right .......Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar? I'll bet he knew a thing or two about slimlines tho.....[8D]

 

[ed4copies]

Don,
You will please note I never said, nor did I mean to imply, that my early work was "square", before it went on the lathe.


Cue background music-old grammaphone might be good.
But, honestly, I have a pretty good eye (well ten years ago when I could see better), and if it was "way off", I adjusted on the lathe with a parting tool.

You see, in those days, I was using all slimlines and rollerballs and the tube length was NOT critical (but I bet you KNEW that!!!)

 

[Dario]

Originally posted by ed4copies
<br />Don,
You will please note I never said, nor did I mean to imply, that my early work was "square", before it went on the lathe.


Cue background music-old grammaphone might be good.
But, honestly, I have a pretty good eye (well ten years ago when I could see better), and if it was "way off", <b>I adjusted on the lathe with a parting tool.</b>
You see, in those days, I was using all slimlines and rollerballs and the tube length was NOT critical (but I bet you KNEW that!!!)

How are you cutting it...without a bushing?

 

[cozee]

Okay, so as to answer my own question. I am gonna order a few cigars and a few slimlines and 1 or 2 of whatever elase catches my eye. Then being a noob at turning wood, I'll let you know what I find easier. Well, I find working with metal easier than wood but that is because it is more forgiving to the less patient!! And speaking of working with metal, it was a picture of a rifle casing pen that got me interested in the first place. What pen kit do I need for those???!!!

 

[arjudy]

It depends on what casing you use. Slimline nib for .30-06 and .308, European nib for .338 WSM and .340 Weatherby Magnum, and there are others you can use too.

 

[Pipes]

Originally posted by cozee
<br />I've got Rich's how-tos already. Great info! I thought I read somewhere that I can square the ends of the blank with the tubes using a disc sander, which I have and with a fence.

I have done over a 100 pens on a disc sander with 0 problems level it up and square your fense up ! I don't seem to get all this worry over the tubes my ends always fit perfect and I just square it up with the DS NO JIG just my sander with the fense ..For some odd reson some folks seem to have had BAD luck on a disc sander like this... I personaly have not and HIGHLY recomend it ..Just drill as stright as you can and forget about it ! It is not IMHO rocket science..but to each his own Thats my 2 cents for what its worth ! [] I even got Deer Antler to square up like this go figure ...IF it didn't work # 1 I would not do it # 2 outa over a 100 kits one would a not fit right some were IMO !!!! as you square the ends on the disc sander listen carefuly and when you hit the brass it a change the sound from a low pitch to a diffrent higher pitch sound STOP right then..I leave abou a 1/8 or 16th of a inch extra to sand off on each end !!! !I even do the length sensitive Round Top Euro from Berea like this actually IMHO and the guy that works at Berea agrees its the ONLY way him or I can make the kit ![]But being as Iam new to this maybe I just got lucky on all my pens I duno !! But Until it proves a bad thing I will stick with it !!!!

Thanks to Rudy Vey a fine Pen Maker a member here who helped this newbie out and showed me the disc sander thing ....





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