Junior Gent II problems

[brownsfn2]

I am so bummed. I finished what I considered to be my finest pen tonight. It was Mexican Agate Tru Stone. I actually was able to put a super shine finish with the skew so I only had to start sanding at 400. I also made it to the Harley store to get Novus 2. WOW. Novus 2 works great followed by Plastx.

Here is the problem. I assembled the pen and cap screws on fine but the cap will not post. It is like the threads are not long enough on the body of the pen to catch the threads in the cap. This is my first Jr. Gent II. I have only ever made Tycoons and Navigators.

Is this a common problem with the Jr Gent IIs? Would it be a problem with the thread inside the cap or the threads on the end post?

I can't imagine trying to disassemble this thing. Does anyone have any tips for that?

Could it be the parts? I did not want to both Exotics until I could be sure it was the part and not me. (Could very well be me.)

Thanks for any help!

Ron

 

[Crickett]

I've never heard of this happening. Did you use too much force and push in the threads too far on that end?

Sent from my iPhone.

 

[SDB777]

Can you see any 'troubled areas' in the threads themselves? Or are the thread not getting to the point of engaging at all?

Photo's might help? Hard to see what you are seeing, without seeing....





Scott (I don't twist well either) B

 

[PenMan1]

Yes, it HAS BEEN a constant problem with the Jr Gent II ( never had problems with the Rhodium finish, but had to send back a 100 set order of the TN gold).

I thought this problem was finally resolved, but maybe you got some older stock. The coupler slides up slightly from the CB brightwork. Then, since the coupler is not "square" inside the tube, the first time the pen is capped it cuts new threads (cross threads slightly). Since the postable end is fewer threads, they no longer reach the coupler.

This drove me nearly insane for over a year! This is a mfg defect and should be returned.

 

[OKLAHOMAN]

Call CSUSA, looks like you got some of the older stock, I just like Andy sent back 100 retros with the same problem. Called and they sent replacement right out. I was told that they had thought that all the older stock were depleated.

 

[PenMan1]

You can tell the "new" couplers from the older, defective ones.

The new ones have a flat spot with stamped numbers and letters. The older ones do not. I guess the flat spot keeps it from turning inside the CB and creeping up the tube?

 

[brownsfn2]

I have not gotten down there yet this morning to check but I will check both issues. The model I am having an issue with is Black Titanium. I tried to see if I could cap a gold one on it and it did not work either. I am not sure if these are different threads though.

Where is the flat part on the coupler located to designate it as older stock?

 

[brownsfn2]

Problem Solved. Sam at Craft Supplies sent me a PM with a phone number. After a great conversation with him he helped me realize what I did. I assembled the cap first and then screwed the coupler into the cap and slightly pressed the body onto the couple while screwed into the cap. I did this to line up the grain. This caused me to push the plastic piece with the threads further up into the cap tube. They are now too far up in the tube to engage the post end of the body.

Thanks Sam!

 

[tjseagrove]

HAHA...I did the same thing and fought with it for 3 hours until I figured out what I did. It was a Jr Statesman.

Tom

 

[BlackPearl]

Problem Solved. Sam at Craft Supplies sent me a PM with a phone number. After a great conversation with him he helped me realize what I did. I assembled the cap first and then screwed the coupler into the cap and slightly pressed the body onto the couple while screwed into the cap. I did this to line up the grain. This caused me to push the plastic piece with the threads further up into the cap tube. They are now too far up in the tube to engage the post end of the body.

Thanks Sam!

Is there a way to get it back down? I have a customer that is on his third cap for this, and I am running out of the matching blanks that I have to use to remake the cap.

 

[brownsfn2]

I fixed mine tonight. I took a punch and knocked off the clip (Finial might pop out. Mine almost did). Then I took the barrell trimmer sleeve and put it in the tube from the other side and tapped it with the hammer to put the sleeve back down so the threads are closer to the end of the cap. As I am typing this I realize now I should have used my vice, drill press or pen press to do this and it would have been more controlled. I then tried as best I could to put a small amount of CA around the upper side of the plastic sleeve so it would not push up again. I then pressed the clip and finial back on the top of the pen. It is late tonight so I will post pictures tomorrow. Hope it works for you the way mine did.

 

[PenMan1]

I fixed mine tonight. I took a punch and knocked off the clip (Finial might pop out. Mine almost did). Then I took the barrell trimmer sleeve and put it in the tube from the other side and tapped it with the hammer to put the sleeve back down so the threads are closer to the end of the cap. As I am typing this I realize now I should have used my vice, drill press or pen press to do this and it would have been more controlled. I then tried as best I could to put a small amount of CA around the upper side of the plastic sleeve so it would not push up again. I then pressed the clip and finial back on the top of the pen. It is late tonight so I will post pictures tomorrow. Hope it works for you the way mine did.

Nooooooooooooo! The CA will cause more problems than it's worth. A week, month or year from now, the CA bond to the center band plating will cause the centerband hardware to "frost".

If you must attach the thread couplet to the centerband, it should be done with threadlocking compound, or epoxy.

 

[DrPepper8412]

This has been happening to a few of mine too! With stock bought from all different suppliers...maybe something they changed in the way they're making them now??

 

[brownsfn2]

Thanks Penman. I put the glue between thread couplet and brass tube. Inside the cap where it is not visible. I did nto know it would have that affect on the plating though. Good to know for the future.

 

[sbell111]

Nooooooooooooo! The CA will cause more problems than it's worth. A week, month or year from now, the CA bond to the center band plating will cause the centerband hardware to "frost".

This is not exactly accurate. Once the CA has cured, it will not 'frost' anything. (That's why we can get away with a CA finish, after all.) In order to prevent any whitening from happening prior to the glue being fully cured, simply wait to finish final assembly until after the glue has cured (a day will do it) and leave the item in a place that is well ventilated. When in doubt, leave a fan on. Problem solved.

 

[ed4copies]

Nooooooooooooo! The CA will cause more problems than it's worth. A week, month or year from now, the CA bond to the center band plating will cause the centerband hardware to "frost".

This is not exactly accurate. Once the CA has cured, it will not 'frost' anything. (That's why we can get away with a CA finish, after all.) In order to prevent any whitening from happening prior to the glue being fully cured, simply wait to finish final assembly until after the glue has cured (a day will do it) and leave the item in a place that is well ventilated. When in doubt, leave a fan on. Problem solved.

This may be completely accurate in Tennessee, but in Wisconsin it is not.

"Curing" of CA seems very dependent on temp and humidity, so let your own experience be your guide. (For me, in my shop---couple days in Summer, Winter is a "crapshoot")

 

[PenMan1]

Nooooooooooooo! The CA will cause more problems than it's worth. A week, month or year from now, the CA bond to the center band plating will cause the centerband hardware to "frost".

This is not exactly accurate. Once the CA has cured, it will not 'frost' anything. (That's why we can get away with a CA finish, after all.) In order to prevent any whitening from happening prior to the glue being fully cured, simply wait to finish final assembly until after the glue has cured (a day will do it) and leave the item in a place that is well ventilated. When in doubt, leave a fan on. Problem solved.

This may be completely accurate in Tennessee, but in Wisconsin it is not.

"Curing" of CA seems very dependent on temp and humidity, so let your own experience be your guide. (For me, in my shop---couple days in Summer, Winter is a "crapshoot")

OR GEORGIA! Due to past failures with CA glue touching plated parts, I NEVER use it, anymore. It may well be the heat and humidity levels here, but you can "cook" the CA for a week and it'll still ghost or crackle the hardware. I keep 5 minute epoxy and threadlock on hand just for this reason.

 

[sbell111]

Nooooooooooooo! The CA will cause more problems than it's worth. A week, month or year from now, the CA bond to the center band plating will cause the centerband hardware to "frost".

This is not exactly accurate. Once the CA has cured, it will not 'frost' anything. (That's why we can get away with a CA finish, after all.) In order to prevent any whitening from happening prior to the glue being fully cured, simply wait to finish final assembly until after the glue has cured (a day will do it) and leave the item in a place that is well ventilated. When in doubt, leave a fan on. Problem solved.

This may be completely accurate in Tennessee, but in Wisconsin it is not.

The laws of physics do not change as you move about.

While it's certainly possible, even likely, that the amount of time that CA will take to cure depends on many factors such as temperature, humidity, age of CA. etc, that does not change the fact that it will still cure in a reasonable length of time and clouding can be avoided by taking the steps that I outlined above.

 

[ed4copies]

Nooooooooooooo! The CA will cause more problems than it's worth. A week, month or year from now, the CA bond to the center band plating will cause the centerband hardware to "frost".

This is not exactly accurate. Once the CA has cured, it will not 'frost' anything. (That's why we can get away with a CA finish, after all.) In order to prevent any whitening from happening prior to the glue being fully cured, simply wait to finish final assembly until after the glue has cured (a day will do it) and leave the item in a place that is well ventilated. When in doubt, leave a fan on. Problem solved.

This may be completely accurate in Tennessee, but in Wisconsin it is not.

The laws of physics do not change as you move about.

While it's certainly possible, even likely, that the amount of time that CA will take to cure depends on many factors such as temperature, humidity, age of CA. etc, that does not change the fact that it will still cure in a reasonable length of time and clouding can be avoided by taking the steps that I outlined above.

Which is the reason I highlighted "a day will do".

A day MAY not do.

Your later statement is far more correct.

Although, as a rule, I agree with Andy----there are better alternatives than CA to use for this purpose.

 

[sbell111]

Nooooooooooooo! The CA will cause more problems than it's worth. A week, month or year from now, the CA bond to the center band plating will cause the centerband hardware to "frost".

This is not exactly accurate. Once the CA has cured, it will not 'frost' anything. (That's why we can get away with a CA finish, after all.) In order to prevent any whitening from happening prior to the glue being fully cured, simply wait to finish final assembly until after the glue has cured (a day will do it) and leave the item in a place that is well ventilated. When in doubt, leave a fan on. Problem solved.

This may be completely accurate in Tennessee, but in Wisconsin it is not.

The laws of physics do not change as you move about.

While it's certainly possible, even likely, that the amount of time that CA will take to cure depends on many factors such as temperature, humidity, age of CA. etc, that does not change the fact that it will still cure in a reasonable length of time and clouding can be avoided by taking the steps that I outlined above.

Which is the reason I highlighted "a day will do".

A day MAY not do.

Your later statement is far more correct.

Although, as a rule, I agree with Andy----there are better alternatives than CA to use for this purpose.

You are, of course, correct. In certain cirmcumstances, I suppose, it would be wise to wait longer than a day to assemble. Perhaps if it were quite cold in the shop, you were using old glue, had used way more than you should have, AND the humidity was quite high perhaps due to an ongoing rain storm, this would be definitely necessary. I've never experienced conditions that required this extended time, but I don't doubt that they are possible. Of course, that doesn't make Andy's 'a week, month, or a year form now' comment to be at all correct, which was the point I was addressing.

There is nothing at all troublesome with using CA for this type of repair. The bit that gets people in trouble is that they believe that CA is an 'instant' glue when in fact it is not. If one understands it's properties, however, it can be used with very good effect.

 

[Chris Bar]

Glad Sam is back...great to work with...