Jr. Guardian issues

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FireproofInc

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Apr 3, 2007
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Don't know if many people make these or not. I've made a few, sold a couple. Having an issue with the refill retracting. This only happens when I use a refill other than the Penn state gel refill. Tried the regular Penn state parkers, real parkers, and I get this issue.

Anyone experience this? If I unscrew the cap just a bit, it works fairly well, but all the way on it gums up.

I tried another transmission and it worked a bit better, but not really too much better. The plastic transmission does seem hokey, any better ones out there? This is the only clicker I have made.

Thanks!
 
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Bobalu

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Tony, I had a similar problem, but not just with other gel refills. The original refill wouldn't retract, either. I can make it retract with pressure on the tip, but seems the spring return is weak, or something is binding. Sorry about the late reply, but I thought I'd give this post some new life and get some answers for both of us.
 

Bobalu

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BTW - I also noted the 8MM drill bit called for in the instructions bore too small a hole. The tube was tough to push in dry, yet alone with CA on it. Next time I'll use a 5/16" bit, which is a wee bit larger.
 

JimMc7

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I've never made a Guardian Jr so no specific help, but I have made several Sierra button clicks and sometimes the spring seems a bit light -- the click just doesn't seem "solid." I bought some replacement springs for Parker-style pens from Wood'N'Whimsies and these actually seem much stiffer and give a more solid feel to the Sierra clicks. This feel is a big improvement (IMO) over what I get by just stretching the kit spring. This is only an "if all else fails" suggestion as I have no experience with your click pen.

PM your address and I'll mail you one if no other fixes suggested.
 

johnnycnc

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BTW - I also noted the 8MM drill bit called for in the instructions bore too small a hole. The tube was tough to push in dry, yet alone with CA on it. Next time I'll use a 5/16" bit, which is a wee bit larger.

I have always found that 8mm is larger than 5/16".
8 (mm) /25.4= .3149
5/16= .3125
You have another option, but it won't help much..an "O" bit at .316.
next half way common (letter) drill is "P" at .323, may be too large.

I got no interest one way or the other, just trying to help with the sizes.:)
 

FireproofInc

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Hey all,

Thanks for the thoughts. I think I may have figured out the problem, at least for one of the pens (which happens to be mine). Mine works fine with the gel that comes with the kit (Penn State Generics). I was looking at the mechanism and thought I would see what it looked like outside of the pen matched up with the standard Parker style from Penn State (not the gel). It appears that the end of the refill that goes into the mechanism doesn't quite line up right or fit. I popped the ends off of both the gel and the standard style and rigged up the standard with the end from the gel...Stuck it in, lo and behold works like a charm! So, at least in my case, it appears to be the age old issue of male/female fitment. Wouldn't you know it!?

I've emailed Richard Greenwald to see if the click pen mechanism that he sells would be a fit, maybe that is the solution? Overall, not a huge fan of the cheapo plastic mechanism on a moderately priced pen, but then pen is gaining popularity for me, that is for sure.

I share the sentiment that the spring seems pretty weak. I think I'll have to order some others and give them a go. I sure do appreciate the folks that are willing to sell even the smallest parts and provide great service doing so!

Cheers!
 

FireproofInc

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BTW - I also noted the 8MM drill bit called for in the instructions bore too small a hole. The tube was tough to push in dry, yet alone with CA on it. Next time I'll use a 5/16" bit, which is a wee bit larger.

On this issue, I've taken to measuring the tube with one of those drill bit size guides. Has the holes so you can size up the tube with either metric or standard. A few pens that I have made I've had issues with the hole being just a bit too small when the glue is one as well. Ruined a perfectly good blank when the tube got stuck halfway in!
 

Bobalu

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I have always found that 8mm is larger than 5/16".
8 (mm) /25.4= .3149
5/16= .3125
You have another option, but it won't help much..an "O" bit at .316.
next half way common (letter) drill is "P" at .323, may be too large.

I got no interest one way or the other, just trying to help with the sizes.:)

John, you are right. When I said the 5/16" bit was a bit larger than the 8MM, it was based on my measurement of the actual bits I had on hand, not from a conversion chart, which I should have checked before I wrote out load. I went back and measured my 8MM bit and it is 7.88MM. That explains why my tube fit so tight. And to think this was one of those more expensive German bits WC sells.
 

johnnycnc

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John, you are right. When I said the 5/16" bit was a bit larger than the 8MM, it was based on my measurement of the actual bits I had on hand, not from a conversion chart, which I should have checked before I wrote out load. I went back and measured my 8MM bit and it is 7.88MM. That explains why my tube fit so tight. And to think this was one of those more expensive German bits WC sells.

That sure would explain the tight fit! I understand completely, and sorry
if i was out of turn.:)
 

Bobalu

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I have always found that 8mm is larger than 5/16".

You are absolutely right. I stand corrected. I should have gone to a drill size chart and checked before I wrote that. What I did was compare a 5/16" bit with the 8mm bit. The 5/16" was .315" and the 8mm was .308", so I assumed the 5/16" bit was larger. It was, but the bit I thought was 8mm turns out to be only 7.82mm. And to think I paid extra for that German bit, thinking it was going to be better than the cheapo brand.
 
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Bobalu

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That sure would explain the tight fit! I understand completely, and sorry
if i was out of turn.:)

You're never out of turn. We need someone like you to keep us on the straight and narrow. I can't believe I didn't check the actual bit I was complaining about first to see if it was in spec. I always have calipers in the back of my car, so I'm taking them with me next time I buy a drill bit that cost more than lunch.
 

johnnycnc

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You're never out of turn. We need someone like you to keep us on the straight and narrow. I can't believe I didn't check the actual bit I was complaining about first to see if it was in spec. I always have calipers in the back of my car, so I'm taking them with me next time I buy a drill bit that cost more than lunch.

Oooh, that was an expensive bit. For that kind of money, it should be
much closer to size.
 
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