Jr. Gent thread issues

[pianomanpj]

I've just completed two 10k gold Jr. Gents and both of them seem to have some thread issues. When screwing the caps onto the body it feels very tight and "grabby". Almost like it may cross-thread. Never used to have this issue in the past. It doesn't seem to be as resistive when posting the cap on the finial.

How do folks remedy this? What practical solutions are there to this issue? I know I've read of some thread issues with the Jr. Gent in the past, but I have yet to find a solution.

For the sake of full disclosure, the kits were purchased recently and had CSUSA labels on them. Although CSUSA says that these are Dayacom kits, the bags themselves did not say "Dayacom". I don't know if that's important or not.

Thanks for any feedback and input, folks!

 

[Terredax]

I also had thread issues with Jr. Gent kits from CSUSA.

I bought them from another individual and didn't discover that the mating threads on either end wouldn't allow the cap to thread on, until I had two pens assembled. I tried some of the other kits, and had the same issue.

I contacted CSUSA, and was told something along the lines that they couldn't help me with the kits, because I didn't purchase them from CSUSA, but from an individual.

This was a couple of years ago, and the kits are still sitting in a box, unable to be used. I believe I bought 20 kits, so there are 18 for possible parts.

 

[pianomanpj]

Well I've put some Renaissance wax on the threads and it seems to help. But it certainly isn't the best solution nor a permanent fix.

I hope the manufacturer takes notice of the many complaints and ramps up quality control. I will gladly pay a little more for components that are labeled Artisan, but not if they operate like Apprentice.

 

[magpens]

Are these metal threads or plastic ? If metal, the plating could be too thick.

I don't know the thread size (and if it is triple start or what) but running the correct size tap or die through one of the appropriate pieces could be a (less than ideal) remedy. . Some cosmetic damage could result. . Doing this with a tap in the cap piece would be better than using a die on the body piece

 

[pianomanpj]

Metal threads on the nib section and plastic inside the cap. I believe they are triple-start threads. I don't have the correct taps and dies for this size, and I probably wouldn't chase them if I did. Mostly because I think the the plastic would flex to conform to the tap; I don't think it would cut at all. YMMV.

Are these metal threads or plastic ? If metal, the plating could be too thick.

I don't know the thread size (and if it is triple start or what) but running the correct size tap or die through one of the appropriate pieces could be a (less than ideal) remedy. . Some cosmetic damage could result. . Doing this with a tap in the cap piece would be better than using a die on the body piece

 

[SteveG]

Hello Roger,
In my experience over the years with the Dayacom Jr Gent (and other) kits, there were a few kits with marginal threads. These were destined to get worse with just a little use. I do not think there is any 'fix' that will work other than replacing the nylon threads. The correct insert is not easy to find, due to changes by Dayacom. This is very frustrating since you can only discover the issue after the pen is made and assembled. It is at that point, when you try to cap the pen, that the flaw becomes evident. Sorry for the bad news...this is my best answer based on my own experience. Hopefully you will find a good resolution from someone else here!

 

[pianomanpj]

Sadly the best solution may be to not offer the Jr. Gent to my customers. Do any other Jr. series pens suffer from this affliction? I would imagine so...

Hello Roger,
In my experience over the years with the Dayacom Jr Gent (and other) kits, there were a few kits with marginal threads. These were destined to get worse with just a little use. I do not think there is any 'fix' that will work other than replacing the nylon threads. The correct insert is not easy to find, due to changes by Dayacom. This is very frustrating since you can only discover the issue after the pen is made and assembled. It is at that point, when you try to cap the pen, that the flaw becomes evident. Sorry for the bad news...this is my best answer based on my own experience. Hopefully you will find a good resolution from someone else here!

 

[SteveG]

In my experience, the issue is either there or not...right from the start. If there is the slightest indication of the wrong "feel" as the threads first engage, then it is a problem, and it will likely get worse. So I pay very close attention and do a very careful check. Selling a pen like that probably end up with a call to you by a dissatisfied customer.

 

[TonyL]

I have had inconsistent experiences with all but the Dayacom Jr Gent IIs - especially over the last two years and with Berea. It could be me or some less than satisfactory lots. Same for the Barons and the other 15/32 and 25/64 "barrelled" pens.

 

[More4dan]

I've had some luck using plastic polish for acrylic and Brasso for metal to metal threads to smooth out the mating of cap and body. A little polish on the threads and I work the cap on and off several times then clean them good. The threads are shallow so go slow. It may work though I've not done this with kits only my own rough threads on my kitless pens. Brasso on aluminum will make then butter smooth.

Danny


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[pianomanpj]

Thanks for the tip, Danny!

I've had some luck using plastic polish for acrylic and Brasso for metal to metal threads to smooth out the mating of cap and body. A little polish on the threads and I work the cap on and off several times then clean them good. The threads are shallow so go slow. It may work though I've not done this with kits only my own rough threads on my kitless pens. Brasso on aluminum will make then butter smooth.

Danny


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[pshrynk]

I've had some luck using plastic polish for acrylic and Brasso for metal to metal threads to smooth out the mating of cap and body. A little polish on the threads and I work the cap on and off several times then clean them good. The threads are shallow so go slow. It may work though I've not done this with kits only my own rough threads on my kitless pens. Brasso on aluminum will make then butter smooth.

Danny


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Do you leave a residue on, or wipe it clean afterwards?

 

[More4dan]

I've had some luck using plastic polish for acrylic and Brasso for metal to metal threads to smooth out the mating of cap and body. A little polish on the threads and I work the cap on and off several times then clean them good. The threads are shallow so go slow. It may work though I've not done this with kits only my own rough threads on my kitless pens. Brasso on aluminum will make then butter smooth.



Danny





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Do you leave a residue on, or wipe it clean afterwards?

I clean it out of the grooves. You don't want it to continue to wear the threads.


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