Jr. Gent postable FP wont post!

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Mack C.

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I rec'd some Jr. Gent FP kits in a trade with some friends some time ago.

As I'm setting parts up to turn an FP, and ensuring that the pen will post, since the customer was adamant he wanted posting.

The black plastic part of the centre band coupler on the left will accept threads from both the nib end and the end opposite the nib.

The one on the right will accept the nib end threads but not the end cap threads, consequently it won't post.

So I'm left with not knowing whether I have an incorrect centre band coupler or an incorrect end cap.

Anyone have any ideas to help me out with this dilemma?
 

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edstreet

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No longer confused....
Yes indeed. I would bet if you looked at the thread patterns you will find one is SQUARE and one is NOT.

The reason is the old style was triangle, the new style is square. Also I am not 100% certain but I think the thread size itself was also changed. The old and new style is not interchangeable.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/gent-jr-statesman-jr-old-vs-new-threads-111421/ This is a post I did comparing the two.
 

Mack C.

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Yes indeed. I would bet if you looked at the thread patterns you will find one is SQUARE and one is NOT.

The reason is the old style was triangle, the new style is square.
Looking at the outside threads though a 10 power loupe, it appears the thread pattern is square. I can't make out the inner thread pattern on the shorter CB coupler.

So if I was able to obtain the longer CB coupler, my problem would be solved? Correct?
 

OKLAHOMAN

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Mack, not necesarily as the longer C/B usually came on the Jr. Statesman and the shorter on the Jr. Gent and the old style on both had triangle threads, the new square. Make sure you get the new style and you can get it in either short or long.How many do you need and I might have some for you. Roy
 

Mack C.

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Mack, not necesarily as the longer C/B usually came on the Jr. Statesman and the shorter on the Jr. Gent and the old style on both had triangle threads, the new square.
Make sure you get the new style and you can get it in either short or long.How many do you need and I might have some for you. Roy
Hi Roy; I only require 1 of the new style. It wouldn't matter to me whether it was the long or short, or should it?
 

edstreet

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this is why there are extra threads in the plastic cap :) Typically the short threads is for the postable cap, longer threads for the nib end. That way less turns to post the cap.

Another option you may want to consider is see if you can get a black plastic cap that would fit the metal fittings you have. As for making one that is likely going to be out of the question as those taps will not be easy to get or cheap.
 

edstreet

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Actually I just thought of a very good idea that may work. You can get some of that molding epoxy from loktite where you squeeze it together and work it like clay then mold it around the object and allow to harden.

Potentially you could do that around the metal cap and exactly match the screw threads then clean up the ends and turn it round to fit inside the cap.
 

OKLAHOMAN

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Mack, not necesarily as the longer C/B usually came on the Jr. Statesman and the shorter on the Jr. Gent and the old style on both had triangle threads, the new square.
Make sure you get the new style and you can get it in either short or long.How many do you need and I might have some for you. Roy
Hi Roy; I only require 1 of the new style. It wouldn't matter to me whether it was the long or short, or should it?

Mack just go ahead and use the long one you have as it will post and it sees you have he new stylewith the square threads. I would suggest you put a drop of loctite on it when you put it in the C/B to keep ypur customer from pushing it into the cap being it's been in and out of the C/B. It makes no difference once assembled weather the insert is long or short . If you need a new one I do have one just let me know. Roy
 

Mack C.

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Mack, not necesarily as the longer C/B usually came on the Jr. Statesman and the shorter on the Jr. Gent and the old style on both had triangle threads, the new square.
Make sure you get the new style and you can get it in either short or long.How many do you need and I might have some for you. Roy
Hi Roy; I only require 1 of the new style. It wouldn't matter to me whether it was the long or short, or should it?

Mack just go ahead and use the long one you have as it will post and it sees you have he new stylewith the square threads. I would suggest you put a drop of loctite on it when you put it in the C/B to keep ypur customer from pushing it into the cap being it's been in and out of the C/B. It makes no difference once assembled weather the insert is long or short . (quote]If you need a new one I do have one just let me know. Roy
Hi Roy; I do require a new one for the other kit that has the wrong one. Do you need my addy, or do you still have it?
 

Mack C.

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Actually I just thought of a very good idea that may work. You can get some of that molding epoxy from loktite where you squeeze it together and work it like clay then mold it around the object and allow to harden.

Potentially you could do that around the metal cap and exactly match the screw threads then clean up the ends and turn it round to fit inside the cap.
You got me smiling with that one, Ed!:biggrin: I guess you're not aware of my skills outside of the box.

Thanks for the suggestion, though!:)
 

SteveG

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The longer black threaded coupler is part of the redesign. The purpose of the added length is to provide improved alignment as you start to screw the cap onto the barrel. The old style was prone to X-threading as you first started. The other improvement was to introduce "square" shaped threads.
Steve
 

Mack C.

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The longer black threaded coupler is part of the redesign. The purpose of the added length is to provide improved alignment as you start to screw the cap onto the barrel. The old style was prone to X-threading as you first started. The other improvement was to introduce "square" shaped threads.
Steve
Thanks for that good bit of info, Steve!
 
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